voltage dropping when bass hits

[Ecofx86]

Im running two amps Rockford bd500( 500 watts) and alpine s32f(400 watts). when the bass hits my voltage meter moves left to right. i put a MM on the amp and seen it drop between 13.9 to 12.8. Depending how much i crank it up. Anyone else have this problem and what is the solution? I thought about buying a 1 farad capacitor to hook to the sub woofer amp.

 

[Domonic J McGrath]

I had the same problem and I switched my head lights to LEDs and 1 farad will not do it at least 4 farad I'm pushing 2 hp audio 12 w3 and jl audio 400 4 chsnnel(highs and mid) and kicker 1200rms 1 channel 1 ohm stable ( subs) and mine would drop I added 1 farad per sub and it did not help and then I put (1)4 farad capacitor next to sub amp and changes headlights and it's all better

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[Domonic J McGrath]

I know the one in the pic is skar a friend was selling it and I wanted to see how it was (trash ) 2 jlaudiow3 send into protect after 10 mins or so you cant even touch the damn thing that's why rca is unplugged

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[MADDOG]

Google "Big 3 Audio Upgrade".

Most sources will describe why you do it and how you do it.

 

[Whitd5]

If you don’t have enough current, you need more. Get a better alternator. Everything else is a bandaid or can be done in addition to adding more current.

 

[Ramitiner]

Big three... I made a quick how to on here.. ill patch over the link.. itll solve that for sure

 

[Ramitiner]

here ya go


https://www.ramforum.com/threads/home-made-big-3-kit.128027/page-5

 

[Graygoose]

Big 3 will help, but you also need to fix the problem. Add a better alt, but a deep cycle battery will help. Caps are band aids to help sudden burst of power, but not continuous.
Great battery line;
https://4xspower.com/
When your reading say 13.8v and get down to like 12v, and its a 1500-2000 watt amp, well your not putting out that power anymore. Power takes power.

 

[Ramitiner]

I'm running 1100WRMS and only on the heaviest bass tracks of say DJ magic mike does the voltage go down to 13V from 14V. this is with stock battery and stock alt but with the big 3 using 1/0 cable.

 

[rotwiler]

I'm running 1,000 watts rms and (2)12s, plus the stock alpine Amp. Even at full volume bass all the way up lights barely surge at night. Adding all led lights didn't change that. I am doing the big 3 soon, have all the parts. When I added a new agm battery a few months ago helped a little, but was a original battery from 2013. I would say, the big 3 should cure your issue, probably a weak ground.

 

[Nick@GotExhaust]

I wouldnt even bother with a CAP, do the big 3 and upgrade your battery and alternator. You can start with the Big 3 then see if you still need more power, and if you need more you can go on from there.

 

[Domonic J McGrath]

I did the big 3 and it did help but did not stop the head light dimming, I dont knowing ram alternators dont have good output compared to others but that would have been my next step but $400 is steep,

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[autokraftgt]

Im running two amps Rockford bd500( 500 watts) and alpine s32f(400 watts). when the bass hits my voltage meter moves left to right. i put a MM on the amp and seen it drop between 13.9 to 12.8. Depending how much i crank it up. Anyone else have this problem and what is the solution? I thought about buying a 1 farad capacitor to hook to the sub woofer amp.

IS this problem happening only at idle? Have you tested with motor turning a bit more rpm? Basically your truck is pulling more power than your alt can put out. Do the big 3, and replace alternator with one that produces more power @ IDLE. Many HO alts produce more power but with higher rpms....I have personally seen HO alts (130's, 180's etc) produce lower amps at idle than factory alternators so be aware of the power produced at idle

 

[NY Andrew]

My OEM bass system does that as well. If you don’t have OEM bass system I wouldn’t sweat it as it’s probably nothing significant if the OEM system is doing it to begin with.

 

[woofie2]

pulling that much power might be a good time to upgrade your battery to an optima Yellowtop. (switching my other vehicles over helped amazingly)

 

[Graygoose]

IS this problem happening only at idle? Have you tested with motor turning a bit more rpm? Basically your truck is pulling more power than your alt can put out. Do the big 3, and replace alternator with one that produces more power @ IDLE. Many HO alts produce more power but with higher rpms....I have personally seen HO alts (130's, 180's etc) produce lower amps at idle than factory alternators so be aware of the power produced at idle

exactly, Big 3 helps, doesn't fix the voltage drop of a heavy current draw. And agree on the idle part, why many SPL vehicles have to raise RPMs during the run.

 

[corneileous]

Google "Big 3 Audio Upgrade".

Most sources will describe why you do it and how you do it.

I may have to look into that, and possibly into an Optima yellow top cuz I have that same problem as well with my dual 10” stealthbox. Not sure if it’s affecting my bass quality or not but when the bass hits, it moves the volt gauge, even driving down the highway. I can’t even crank the tunes up much with the motor off or the voltage protection in the amp shuts off.

But the instructions say these cables can either replace or be used in conjunction with your factory cables; I figured using them with would yield better results.... am I right?


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[Ramitiner]

I may have to look into that, and possibly into an Optima yellow top cuz I have that same problem as well with my dual 10” stealthbox. Not sure if it’s affecting my bass quality or not but when the bass hits, it moves the volt gauge, even driving down the highway. I can’t even crank the tunes up much with the motor off or the voltage protection in the amp shuts off.

But the instructions say these cables can either replace or be used in conjunction with your factory cables; I figured using them with would yield better results.... am I right?


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I used them in conjunction... Mostly because bit was easier but also because it can only be better not worse. See my video I posted on this thread. Big 3 is too easy not to do

 

[Damion]

Big 3 will help, but you also need to fix the problem. Add a better alt, but a deep cycle battery will help. Caps are band aids to help sudden burst of power, but not continuous.
Great battery line;
https://4xspower.com/
When your reading say 13.8v and get down to like 12v, and its a 1500-2000 watt amp, well your not putting out that power anymore. Power takes power.

Exactly this. Caps ARE a bandaid for a bigger problem ( im not against them as they do have uses, but this is not one of them. ) Larger alternator and a second battery will be the answer. Many rams have larger output alternators from factory so it would be a straight swap, although from what I've read these new smart alternators are a pain to get working with two batteries without some additional equipment.

Google dedicated SPL vehicles, tens of amps, tens of subs, tens of batteries, some have multiple alternators, but I can't remember seeing any loaded up with caps. And to boot with large or multiple caps, now after a large bass hit your alternator has to try to charge the battery AND the caps ( mind you caps charge fast but the extra draw is still there )

If anyone don't think caps have much draw on them take a Brand new 1+ farad cap and stick 12v to it without pre charging it. Like watching an arc welder.....

Alma Gates had a sweet system in her bronco, not sure if she still has it or not?

 

[FF1899]

My 14 I had a blue top in it along with the big 3 and it was fine after that. Start with a battery and go from there. My 18 is still stock battery with 2 1000 rims dd amps and a dd 4 channel and I have no problem at all