Weird brake problem, pedal drops but more 2007

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slowindown

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This will be a bit long but there's a good bit of info for troubleshooting purposes.

I have a 2007 ram 1500 4 door 2wd 5.7 with 230,000 miles. I bought the truck new. Until now, no one has touched the brakes but me and that was at least 100,000 miles ago when I replaced front hubs, rotors and front and front pads. Some time later I replaced the rear pads but not the rear rotors. This truck has abs but the module only has one line running to it from the master cyl and one line exiting that goes to the rear brakes. So I assume the rear brakes are technically the only ones with abs, all 4 are disc brakes tho. This is a southern truck so no rust underneath.

Anyway, I took it to the front end shop recently for an alignment, ball joints etc and they noticed the brake pedal was dropping and said if I brought it back they would replace the master cylinder. So I brought it back later. A new master cylinder didn't change anything. In fact, they tried two from Oriellys and a better brand they had to wait several days to arrive (I forget the brand). None of the three were any different from the stock trw unit in functioning (except that the fluid level sensor on all 3 new ones said it was low on fluid - the old one doesn't do that - odd).

So, this is what it does: push the brakes and they work but the pedal continues to near the floor. But it does stop. Also if your at highway speed when you initially hit the brakes there is a shudder for a second or 2 that goes away (feels like from the rear - was assuming it was a warped rotor but no longer sure). You can make the brakes work close to normal by giving them a good double tap - the pedal stays higher but will eventually go down. The pedal will drop whether the truck is cranked or not.

This truck has abs but the module only has one line running to it from the master cyl and one line exiting that goes to the rear brakes. The line furthest from the booster is the one that feeds the abs module. The mechanic told me they were getting brake fluid at all four corners when they bled them. The mechanic said that all of the calipers seemed to be functioning normal and not sticking - I believe he said he tried some different calipers too. He also said that the rubber lines did not appear to be swelling and that he was stumped.

No abs or brake light has been on (except the fluid level from the master cylinders that the mechanic tried). This shop has been in business a long time, is owned by a nice guy and I've never heard anything bad about the shop. Plus he wouldn't take anything for all of the hours he has put into it. But he did say that he didn't know a lot about the workings of the abs system (he can re-plumb around the abs unit if I want him to). But that's my last option. I brought the truck home to try and fix it myself.

I know very little about abs although I have replace a module in my daughters volvo when no fluid would go to one of her rear calipers. It had many more brake lines than the one in my truck. I'm wondering if a bad abs unit can cause this issue I'm experiencing or if not, what could.

Thanks
 
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slowindown

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Brake booster? Vacuum leak?
Thank you but as far as I know the brake booster and the vacuum to it only helps you push the pedal down. Put another way, it helps push the master cylinder in. A bad booster or vac leak should result in a hard to push pedal.
 
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slowindown

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I found this link: https://www.brakebleeder.com/diagnosing-excessive-pedal-travel-on-rear-wheel-abs-vehicles-rwal-rabs/

And this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckEoArQv14g

I can pull the cap off of the dump valve, insert a wire in the hole and when I push the brakes, I can see the wire rise. So, I believe that to be the problem.

I'm still researching to make sure whether I need what mopar calls the control unit, which is the aluminum part with the brake lines and the valves in the pic I'm attaching or the control module, which is the plastic housed part where the electrical connector goes. The control unit is still available new. The control module is not (rebuilt ones are available).

I'm pretty new to figuring out abs, but I think, based on description and symptoms that I need the control unit, which I believe is also called the abs modulator, not to be confused with the module.

When I get a little time, I'm going to see if the dodge ram control unit will allow me to do the confirmation procedure shown in the the link above.

I'll report back. If anyone else has any suggestions in the meantime, I would appreciate hearing.

Also, I can tell that the unit is at least partially working as I can drive on grass, slam on brakes such that the wheels are trying to lock up and hear the unit making a pulsing noise from under the hood.
 

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Ron Boggio

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Once you said the master cylinder was relaced and the condition persisted I thought bypassing dump valve. However you are already there. For future reference, if a master cylinder is puking itself, typically but not always there will be brake fluid all over the booster.
 

Daw14

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Change your hoses , they fail internally and will make you pull your hair out with the odd behavior that’s possible.
 
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slowindown

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I fixed it. The problem was what I had worked out in post #4. I ordered a new modulator (control unit - the aluminum part) from rockauto. It was an oem mopar part. Around $125 shipped.

It is fairly straightforward to replace. Remove the battery. Remove the electrical connector to the abs module (slide red catch up - mine required a fair amount of effort to get the plug free). Remove the 10mm tubing nuts holding the 2 brake lines to the modulator. Remove the 13mm bolt that goes through the side of the battery box into the modulator. Remove enough screws in the driver side front wheel liner to pull it out of the way enough to access and remove the 13mm bolt from the bottom of the modulator. You can now remove the entire abs module.

Remove the abs module (plastic electronic part) from the modulator (control unit) - 2 torx screws. Mount it to the new modulator.

Install is the reverse. Be extremely careful installing the two brake lines so that you don’t cross thread them - it took me a bunch of attempts. It’s easiest to pull the brake line all the way into the flange nut and while adjusting the angle of the abs unit with one hand start the nuts with the other.

I didn’t have a helper so I used a mighty vac to bleed the rear brake lines, passenger side first.
 

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