What DON'T you like about your RAM?

[TestPilot57]

"Clear Flood"

Interesting. And interesting that it's called that. Guess it's a carry over from the old days when you could flood the intake.

 

[18CrewDually]

Interesting. And interesting that it's called that. Guess it's a carry over from the old days when you could flood the intake.

I posted about this yesterday here: Post in thread 'low oil pressure' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/low-oil-pressure.195973/post-2744105

It gets its name "Clear Flood" because it disables the pulses from the PCM to the injectors so they won't flow any more fuel just incase there was a flooding of fuel incident.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I posted about this yesterday here: Post in thread 'low oil pressure' https://www.ramforum.com/threads/low-oil-pressure.195973/post-2744105

It gets its name "Clear Flood" because it disables the pulses from the PCM to the injectors so they won't flow any more fuel just incase there was a flooding of fuel incident.

As a diagnostician, I can use it to load the ignition coils under high compression for misfire root cause analysis whilst running a relative compression test with an oscilloscope.

 

[Yardbird]

There IS a solution to your issue. It's called "Clear Flood". This feature is on all domestic OBD2 vehicles but on few imports.
When you first get into your truck in the AM, floor the throttle and crank away! It won't start until you back off the throttle.
Read your owner's manual!
This will allow oil pressure to build before starting.
You're welcome!

That's what I've been doing for years on vehicles that have sat a while, being started after an oil change, or in cold weather.

I just want the ridiculous instant 1600 rpm cold start programmed down to a reasonable number, and not all at once as soon as the engine is started.

 

[Sherman Bird]

That's what I've been doing for years on vehicles that have sat a while, being started after an oil change, or in cold weather.

I just want the ridiculous instant 1600 rpm cold start programmed down to a reasonable number, and not all at once as soon as the engine is started.

Spit in one hand and wish in the other! See which gets full quickest!
Truth is, the high cold idle is purely for emissions compliance,

A few manufacturers actually preheat oxygen sensors, and Volvo championed a preheated catalytic converter some years ago whereby these heaters are activated when one pushes the unlock function on the key fob! The faster the engine and correction systems get to operating temperature, the faster the vehicle is emissions compliant! EVERYONE is in a hurry! Even manufacturers!

 

[Octane]

I had a new 1990 S10 w/ the 4.3 engine. Everytime it was started, with engine cold or hot, it would go thru an extended high idle. The mechanic said something about a open or closed loop computer setup or something I only know if you were working around the property, and were having to do any frequent stopping and starting, it was stupid to have to wait every time for that high idle to come down Just like a cold engine needed to do. So I'd just jam it in gear anyway and go.

 

[Sherman Bird]

I had a new 1990 S10 w/ the 4.3 engine. Everytime it was started, with engine cold or hot, it would go thru an extended high idle. The mechanic said something about a open or closed loop computer setup or something I only know if you were working around the property, and were having to do any frequent stopping and starting, it was stupid to have to wait every time for that high idle to come down Just like a cold engine needed to do. So I'd just jam it in gear anyway and go.

GM was pretty hubristic back in the day. They did accomplish a good thing when they got Rid of H. Ross Perot by buying his company out back in about 1992 or so, EDS. This company had the contract for manufacturing computers for GM. Trouble was, Perot was a maverick and did things his way, not to the engineering designs of GM's capable engineers.

In those days, GM computers were total junk. I'd see cars with all the relays clicking while the engine shook violently due to severe misfires because the computers were garbage. It was prolific across the country. Perot would not listen and GM had a red herring on their hands.

They (GM) paid that curmudgeon 4 billion to get rid of him.

After that, ECM's became much more dependable, but I digress. The fact is, that when cold, most engines need 12 to 1 stoic to run until they warm up, and high idle is necessary to compensate for that very rich condition. That is very polluting! Nowadays, many manufacturers are making engines run on closer to 15 to 1. Talk about lean! And that leads to LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) Low speed of the piston as it gets to TDC under ECM controlled STOIC during moderate acceleration. Right as the piston slows down, the hot spots, generally caused by normal carbon deposits would ignite instead of burn in a controlled rate. One solution was/is CVT transmissions to mediate this high load at slow speed (velocity).

The new API "SP" engine oils actually address this, and have helped a lot... but the ever stringent EPA mandates germane to CAFE still loom large!

 

[assblaster5000]

That is why they make a winter front to cover the front of the truck to help restrict all of that cold air to the Radiator.

I know of the grill cover but everytime I've looked at them they state for diesel only. Mines a gasser. I know the old school cardboard trick works but I thought the cover would be better for winter.. like I said they always say the cover is for diesel only.. so I left it alone

 

[assblaster5000]

My '21 Classic starts heating in about 2 minutes.

Have you ever considered changing the coolant line thermostat to a warmer temperature unit or maybe yours is just seized open?

If it never closes, it will take much longer to blow heat.

In the old days, we used to pop them out and put them in a pan of water on the stove. You could start heating and see when or if it would open.

Again, many years ago, it was a 10-minute job to change a thermostat with little to no coolant loss. The last time I looked at changing one, it was a huge PITA and required draining lots of coolant first. I have no idea what's involved in a Ram. YouTube knows.


Yup, much more of a PITA.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo6lQKAGY0M


PS: None of the vehicles I worked on as a youth had computers and the Ram trucks of today are much more complicated. I'd suggest you investigate the possibility that your existing thermostat is original and may not be working correctly. Also, discuss the issue with those that are familiar with Ram trucks & the associated coolant thermostats.
.

Thank you. I will have to do some research. It takes 20 to 30 minutes for the engine to heat enough to start pumping heat in the cabin. The heat works. It's just always taken forever to feel it inside. I left work in -30 awhile back. Defroster going and it sat for a few minutes before I left. Driving along in a hurry and a gust of wind hit the windshield and fogged completely over. Couldn't see anything and the defroster was still in the useless zone.. Now I just make sure it sits longer but the truck has always warmed up slowly. Always wondered if you could get an aftermarket heater.

 

[06 Dodge]

I know of the grill cover but everytime I've looked at them they state for diesel only. Mines a gasser. I know the old school cardboard trick works but I thought the cover would be better for winter.. like I said they always say the cover is for diesel only.. so I left it alone

Not sure why the one for the 1500 DT could not be used and or adapted did not think the front grill was all that different. Also Carid has on after market, fitment list Ram 2009 to 2012: https://www.carid.com/fia/black-win...wf923-13.html?singleid=168079397#applications or https://www.amazon.com/WF923-11-Cus...dp/B000766T5W/ref=psdc_15719731_t3_B0054KG14A or

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