What to look for on a bad 65RFE valve body

[TheEnder]

holy **** bro.

I missed that for sure, glad you are good.

Thank you [emoji4]


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[TheEnder]

holy **** bro.

I missed that for sure, glad you are good.

I think i found the source of my issues, which is the charging system.

I’ve been getting “Battery Voltage Low” in the EVIC for a bit now, once back in July and once again on Friday night when i was getting gas for the weekend.

Before it happened again on fri, i was noticing clicking coming from the transmission (new and old) that sounded like the click i was having from 2-4, just not as loud. I mostly heard it in drive thrus.

When everything happened friday night, trans shifted beautifully, but the alternator was whining like a dog. I got it home, shut it off, trucks starter was EXTREMELY high pitched and had barely enough power to start the engine, and when it started, instead of jumping up to nearly 1.5K how it usually did it jumped up to 700RPM, climbed to 900, and then gradually went back down. Voltmeter on my code reader said the battery was charging at around 12.3 volts.

Cluster starts acting strange as ****, displays “Warning 101 Not Used” with RPMs surging at idle from 500 to 900, then truck completely stalls.

Shut the truck off for 5 mins, get back in, it acts like nothing is wrong, the starter sounds more normal but it has a high pitched twang (if that makes sense) to it, i run another test, charging the battery at 13.2 volts, with high variations between 13.2 and 13.4. This is not normal for any ram truck from what i’m seeing, with them usually running at over 14.

So, gathering from this, i have discovered the cause of all my previous issues i could never truly figure out with the old transmission that just carried over to my new one. Shift flaring, slow shifting, mis-shifting, torque converter unlock during shifts, can ALL be attributed to this. I should’ve checked this out first...


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[Hemi395]

Good find! These new trucks a re super sensitive to low voltage. Time for a new alternator?

 

[TheEnder]

Good find! These new trucks a re super sensitive to low voltage. Time for a new alternator?

Yup, it’s ordered. Now to wait..


Sent from RAM

 

[Hemi395]

Yup, it’s ordered. Now to wait..


Sent from RAM

Is that the original one??

 

[TheEnder]

Is that the original one??

Yeah, original alternator on the truck. Original replacement going back in too. It happened at a great time because i have to replace my belt anyways.


Sent from RAM

 

[Hemi395]

Yeah, original alternator on the truck. Original replacement going back in too. It happened at a great time because i have to replace my belt anyways.


Sent from RAM

That's CRAZY [emoji15]

I don't think I've ever heard of an alternator going that long...

I'd say you got your money's worth out of that [emoji106]

 

[TheEnder]

I just recently learned that the channel plate is not the main issue of the 65RFE when it comes down to valve body warpage.

The main issue according to a few sources i’ve learned from is the accumulator housing half of the VB, even with being anodized it seems to be the one to warp. I’ve been seeing a lot of people complain about the billet OE channel plate not fixing their issues with low line pressure etc.

Secondly, it seems to be that having a VB gasket with stock line pressures or even slightly higher line pressures will get rid of most (99%) if not ALL valve body leakage, this was proven with a test done by BD Diesel Performance on the 68RFE (they use the same valve bodies.) You can purchase these for 40$ on eBay, and it’s a MUST.


It seems that these gaskets (after a fix for a warped vb) can completely solve most if not all the issues that cause it to warp in the first place. Even running stock line pressures this will help you out immensely as it keeps the LP going to the OD clutch from crossbleeding into a different channel in the VB and causing you to burn out your OD clutches.

Here’s the article, i’d suggest giving it a very in depth read: https://us.bddiesel.com/blogs/r-d-blog/trials-and-tribulations-of-the-68rfe-part-one-the-valve-body


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[Burla]

Nobody doubts gasket will solve the issue, but for how long is the question. It is a bandaid, where as a plate is a fix. Mind you trans runs some decent pressure, eventually those gaskets are gonna leak, especially if the VB was warped or off a bit. The plate prevents the VB from warping in the first place, assuming the right plate, not all are equal.

 

[Hemi395]

What causes the VB to warp? Heat?

 

[TheEnder]

What causes the VB to warp? Heat?

Repeated heat cycles yes, and the fact that the metal Chrysler uses isn’t that great to begin with.


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[MontyNC]

Will a 68RFE valve body work in a 65rfe transmission without modification?

Has any one done it?

I am looking at revmax valve bodies, but they only have the 68RFE valve bodies.

I belive my valve body is on the way out.

Thanks

 

[TheEnder]

Will a 68RFE valve body work in a 65rfe transmission without modification?

Has any one done it?

I am looking at revmax valve bodies, but they only have the 68RFE valve bodies.

I belive my valve body is on the way out.

Thanks

Yes, but you need to note whether it’s a 7 check ball or 5 check ball design.


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