When Not to Use Redline Thread

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Bigskyroadglide

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@Burla

My high mileage 11, 5.7 hemi at 150K, runs 5w30 redline. I pull a 7x14 tandem trailer loaded with 3, 900 lb Harleys, coast to coast in multiple conditions both hot and cold.

I also start the truck in -40 degree weather, do start and stops in town with multiple on and off cycles, and run the truck, When not pulling a trailer hard with many miles at 80+ mph out west where limits are higher.

I don't have this Piston slap you talk about. I don't have a hemi tick and I did switch to redline at about 100k. So I think I'm probably not in the control group for not switching at high mileage


The more miles mine accumulates, the better it seems to perform.

Ps. I'm on the original cam and lifters.

Thanks, for the content on oils!

One question, perhaps I've over looked. Why no lubiguard and redline? Missed the science on that tidbit

Thanks
 

tidefan1967

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@Burla

My high mileage 11, 5.7 hemi at 150K, runs 5w30 redline. I pull a 7x14 tandem trailer loaded with 3, 900 lb Harleys, coast to coast in multiple conditions both hot and cold.

I also start the truck in -40 degree weather, do start and stops in town with multiple on and off cycles, and run the truck, When not pulling a trailer hard with many miles at 80+ mph out west where limits are higher.

I don't have this Piston slap you talk about. I don't have a hemi tick and I did switch to redline at about 100k. So I think I'm probably not in the control group for not switching at high mileage


The more miles mine accumulates, the better it seems to perform.

Ps. I'm on the original cam and lifters.

Thanks, for the content on oils!

One question, perhaps I've over looked. Why no lubiguard and redline? Missed the science on that tidbit

Thanks
Lubegard and Redline together is considered overkill. Lubegard and a cheaper parts store synthetic oil is basically considered “poor mans Redline.”
 
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Burla

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So the underlying idea of this thread is risk versus reward, even though something may be low risk, something may also be low reward, and in some cases no reward even though you accept some risk. There is a sweet spot on moly and esters, no I don't know what it is, I know it exists. I know too much esters can damage seals and too much moly can cause copper wear issues. I know the apx number, as in 30% esters, but I don't know the exact number versus the exact type of ester, or the %'s in any product, or mixability of esters.

Now, we know redline is not above the sweet spot proven with long term uoa's, but going up in esters and moly is an unkwown. So some guys are doing it, but I feel I have the duty to stay conservative with what I recommend. Especially since we have had the issues noted in the thread. I don't take my own advice because for me I am more curious then smart, I can accept if I have a bad result, but the safe route is the route put forth that includes the experiences on the board. What we know has been forged over time, chose what level of risk you want to take on based on incoming facts.
 

Jlacoste95

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I appreciate all the real info on these threads.. I bought a 2016 ram tradesman 5.7 hemi with 65k on it in 2019.. the previous owner drove it two and from San Diego and San Francisco for work for couple years and then traded it in for a v6. To keep this Short. I believe that with low idle and mostly highway miles, the hemi had cleared the tick. I have only used Mobile one 5w20 synthetic, And change in my garage ever 3 to 5k.. maybe it’s the use of purely synthetic? I’m now currently sitting 104k and still confident in my spirited driving!
move put some work into the the front end for maintenance and the exhaust for those pesky manifold studs, those extend warranties aren’t great.. so I have pointers if needed. First offif you think it’s internal knock grab a stethoscope and put it near the manifold at idle, if it’s not the cause 9/10 it’s you maifold bolts‍♂️
Curious to long term oils and detergents for preventative purposes
 
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Sherman Bird

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Redline has proven itself as leader in the pack in the battle of hemi tick, but the very fact it does what it does also makes it not such a perfect candidate in some other situations, so hopefully before someone choses redline they read this thread that hopefully has forum experiences posted.

Note Risks in the COLD and with HIGH MILEAGE ENGINES when switching oils.

Fact, 5w30 redline is going to be thicker then any other 5w30 discussed and most of the 0w40's out there for most of the time in the sump. By law, a 0w40 cst has to start thicker then a 5w30, but they shear and redline wont shear as fast, so indeed this 5w30 is like a 5w40 in most brands of oil in use, and in many rams this can leave you piston slap in the cold. We have found out the proper redline to run in this situation is 0w30, this generally also keeps hemi tick away but leaves piston slap to a bare minimum. If you dont have hemi tick and you use redline for the additives, then in the cold you can even use the 20 weights like the manu says. For towing, I'd prefer 0w30 at a minimum, but that is personal choice. If you don't have hemi tick, 0w30's in many brands are great oils, pick one with moly might even flow better at start up then thicker redline. Look for pao 0w30's, again thinner is better so long as you have similar cst operating temp viscosity.

High Mileage Rams 75k miles +, if it aint broke don't fix it. This is not the time to try redline, the same thing that makes it good for hemi tick makes it a risky choice for an engine where the tolerances have widened. The places in an engine have developed their own film, and when you put the redline in the additives will compete for that surface, and until and if the redline repopulates the surface, it can be noisy. High zddp, high moly, possibly esters, all take time to film up, and the high detergency of redline will clean the other film out and then it is a waiting game for the film to come back. When you have noise from out of tolerance stuff, you have pressure, and mineral base oil is not what works in this area, that is the very reason why they use ep/aw additives in the first place. Now, using a thicker version of redline or any oil will minimize the need for additives in tolerance widened areas. So using 5w20 redline is a high mileage engine would never be what I'd recommend and haven't for some time as the forum experiences have poured in over the last decade.

So what moves can someone with a high mileage ram make IF they get hemi tick? Fix it mechanically, or use a lubrication strategy that includes heavy viscosity, how heavy is a personal choice my guess going over 40 weight wouldn't be something I'd entertain unless it was my last choice. If you try redline and I still think it is viable, understand the risk, be patient and see if the film repopulates, and use a thick version of it, 0w30 at a minimum.

Should you use redline in an engine w/o hemi tick? I wouldn't have, I don't like spending a lot of money when modern oils have gotten so cheap. Maybe if I had no money considerations or I was towing heavy, but your general commuter ram, it is a personal choice and the choice carry's risk if the engine is high mileage. Hemi's don't get their power in high rpm's, so high performance oils are only so beneficial. However, hemi tick creates a situation where the moving metal is similar to what happens in a high rpms engine, thus the benefits of redline are what they have proven to be.

Many rams will take redline 5w30 and have no ill effects whatsoever all year round, but what is the perfect choice for a hemi will depend on it's location and a specific engine, facts learned from this forum. Know the risks and if you have a negative experience be patient give it time to work, and adjust your strategy with how your engine is sounding. If you can avoid cold piston slap and hemi tick, then you win. If you have a high mileage ram, there no reason to take on risk of a high performance oil unless you have hemi tick, then proceed with caution and use the correct weight as in go thick and minimize the effects of high detergency. We all were in the deal together, I have certainly had things that happened that are unexplainable, as in my hemi ticked on 10w30 redline and not 5w30, there are a host of reasons why that shouldn't have happened, but it is what it is.

If you have a hemi with no tick and still want to know if there is any reason to try/use redline, then get a uoa. Either it will justify trying it, or it will set your mind at ease, 38 bucks well spent.
Does any of this debate really matter? I mean, doesn't the baritone voice of Sam Elliot proclaiming "Guts! Glory! Ram!" trump all else!? ;)
 
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Burla

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Does any of this debate really matter? I mean, doesn't the baritone voice of Sam Elliot proclaiming "Guts! Glory! Ram!" trump all else!? ;)
Just categorizing ram forum members bad experiences so as to alert other ram forum members of potential risk and possible fixes, thought that was crystal clear as I put the number having the result. Perhaps you haven't seen the threads were 100 ram forum members have their experiences, I guess your retort would be isn't that like 100 sam elliot's proclaiming Guts! Glory! Ram!?
 
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Burla

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The proper way to win an argument is to challenge the facts, not challenge the credibility of a person, ad hominem is what people do when they know they lost an argument on the facts. Furthermore, when someone sinks to that, then the opponent knows he/she doesn't have to address the facts, because once the ad hominem is heard, it is known the argument was conceded on a factual basis. So thanks for verifying what the forum already knows, the facts are solid.
 

9th

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I got the Redline 5w30 last week and I just put them this morning for my 2012 1500 5.7 with 151000 miles.
I drive for almost 150 miles daily along interstate ( I-10/North Florida ).
What makes me change to Redline is I heard a tick but I found out it's a broken exhaust manifold heatshield bolt.
I should check first that broken bolt before buying the Redline :)

But anyway, It's throwing a P1521 code ( No CEL ) during at least 15 minutes of idling right after I change the oil (Note that manual recommended oil is 5w20).
I reset the error and test drive for around 20miles ( I always set the trans to manual because I don't like the MDS ).
Well, no limp mode along the way and no code after that drive.

Do I need to worry if this code come back in the next days?

[Edit]
I'm running 70miles this morning. The P1521 coming back ( Still no CEL).
 
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Burla

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I got the Redline 5w30 last week and I just put them this morning for my 2012 1500 5.7 with 151000 miles.
I drive for almost 150 miles daily along interstate ( I-10/North Florida ).
What makes me change to Redline is I heard a tick but I found out it's a broken exhaust manifold heatshield bolt.
I should check first that broken bolt before buying the Redline :)

But anyway, It's throwing a P1521 code ( No CEL ) during at least 15 minutes of idling right after I change the oil (Note that manual recommended oil is 5w20).
I reset the error and test drive for around 20miles ( I always set the trans to manual because I don't like the MDS ).
Well, no limp mode along the way and no code after that drive.

Do I need to worry if this code come back in the next days?

[Edit]
I'm running 70miles this morning. The P1521 coming back ( Still no CEL).
I believe this is the first reported case of this with follow up, if there are others it is not a lot. Other then just a code, this is zero issue for the functioning of your truck. Viscosity is a state of fluid in temperature, that is all. Trucks that operate in the cold have a viscosity near 100 times that of 5w20, that is not a typo, and your viscosity is not even 2 times that of 5w20, but rather a 25-33% increase - 9 to 12 viscosity. So other then a code, there will never be a limp mode to protect your engine on this. Now, 5w30 redline is thicker then a 0w40 in use, so it is a thick 5w30 to say the least. If it bothers you, you can use a different 5w30 or 0w30 redline. However, if you are enjoying it right now with no ill effects, then 5w30 redline is a good choice for a HM engine in florida as you wont be getting cold piston slap and you wont have issues of having a thin oil in a HM truck, so up to you but I'd just ignore that.
 

9th

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I believe this is the first reported case of this with follow up, if there are others it is not a lot. Other then just a code, this is zero issue for the functioning of your truck. Viscosity is a state of fluid in temperature, that is all. Trucks that operate in the cold have a viscosity near 100 times that of 5w20, that is not a typo, and your viscosity is not even 2 times that of 5w20, but rather a 25-33% increase - 9 to 12 viscosity. So other then a code, there will never be a limp mode to protect your engine on this. Now, 5w30 redline is thicker then a 0w40 in use, so it is a thick 5w30 to say the least. If it bothers you, you can use a different 5w30 or 0w30 redline. However, if you are enjoying it right now with no ill effects, then 5w30 redline is a good choice for a HM engine in florida as you wont be getting cold piston slap and you wont have issues of having a thin oil in a HM truck, so up to you but I'd just ignore that.
Thanks, I'll update you if I can find some solution of this code.
 

9th

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I did some experiment.
I make it sure the MDS is disabled by turning ON the Tow/Haul Switch right after ignition start or during reverse and turn on the manual trans during cruising. No code.
If I let the MDS ON, code appear.
Now I am thinking that the MDS "sensor" detect the "wrong oil".

I'm ordering a tuner now to permanently disabled the MDS as I am tired and getting old already doing the manual thing.
 

Treburkulosis

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I did some experiment.
I make it sure the MDS is disabled by turning ON the Tow/Haul Switch right after ignition start or during reverse and turn on the manual trans during cruising. No code.
If I let the MDS ON, code appear.
Now I am thinking that the MDS "sensor" detect the "wrong oil".

I'm ordering a tuner now to permanently disabled the MDS as I am tired and getting old already doing the manual thing.
I hate doing it manually as well. I need to order a tuner as well.
 

tfeni52355

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I have been running Redline 5W-30 and RP 20-820 (large filter) since 5K miles. Truck has 76K miles on it. Change the oil per the truck oil life indicator. Last two UOA's from Blackstone were great. No tick, no slap. I am sticking with RL 5W-30. No need to try and fix what isn't broken.

On the 8 speed tranny side however I recently switched from Redline D6 to Valvoline Maxlife since the tranny seemed to slip on the 2-3 shift more as time went by. Had about 8K miles on the D6. Also changed the tranny pan to a PPE pan. Love the way my truck shifts now and the slightly cooler temps using the PPE pan.

A tip to try for the 8 speed "first shift" on startup. Shift the tranny to Reverse (R) first, then into Drive (D) when you first start out from a cold truck. Just takes a second and seems to make the "first shift" 1-2 when cold a lot smoother. Just my $.02. Free to you! :)
 
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Burla

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I have been running Redline 5W-30 and RP 20-820 (large filter) since 5K miles. Truck has 76K miles on it. Change the oil per the truck oil life indicator. Last two UOA's from Blackstone were great. No tick, no slap. I am sticking with RL 5W-30. No need to try and fix what isn't broken.

On the 8 speed tranny side however I recently switched from Redline D6 to Valvoline Maxlife since the tranny seemed to slip on the 2-3 shift more as time went by. Had about 8K miles on the D6. Also changed the tranny pan to a PPE pan. Love the way my truck shifts now and the slightly cooler temps using the PPE pan.

A tip to try for the 8 speed "first shift" on startup. Shift the tranny to Reverse (R) first, then into Drive (D) when you first start out from a cold truck. Just takes a second and seems to make the "first shift" 1-2 when cold a lot smoother. Just my $.02. Free to you! :)
Thanks that was what I am looking for, validation of the risk in certain situations/applications. If you put "brand" aside and consider just the formula, d6 may not be the correct formula for the 8 speed. It is really a quagmire though right? It operates hot, so the manu wants pao base oil, but their idea of pao is not so much a real quality product, and a real pao product leaves some slip in some transmissions. Kinda lends itself to it being a real good idea to have a short interval like our old pal sean (eco diesel)recommended. And the quagmire is fca making that application so hard to maintain. Ideally, someone could dyi fluid swap every 25k miles. That or get that temperature out of that transmission, I hear guys have figured that out.
 

John Schmidt

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Welp, here goes. My truck had about 15 to 20 thousand miles on it and ... yup, dumped RL 5w-20 and now 5w-30 in it. I did not have hemi tick and I intend to keep it that way.

It's still too noisy on a cold start as far as I'm concerned (but every hemi has that same noise and it's not lifter tick in this case, maybe injector noise?) but once it reaches operating temp it becomes smooth and quiet as butter.

My theory is, why fiddle faddle around with inferior oils if RL truly is that great of an oil? For an extra 50 bucks twice a year I can run what should be one of the best oils you can get, so I'm not going to play the mad scientist and experiment with other stuff.

So even though my engine is not yet as quiet as I would like it on a cold start, the warm/operating temps have proven to me that it's better than the junk I was running from the dealer. I did two UOAs so far, both look great except for copper (bearings?) and will keep an eye on that for next time.
I agree with your theory and do the same. Curious as to what year truck? Also, do you ever disable MDS with the Gear +/- buttons or Tow/Haul? Thanks!
 

ramffml

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I agree with your theory and do the same. Curious as to what year truck? Also, do you ever disable MDS with the Gear +/- buttons or Tow/Haul? Thanks!

I have a 2019 5th gen, I always run with MDS disabled (gear limiter), its the first thing I do after getting into drive. I may have driven about 2 hours total with MDS active so far on the entire life of the engine and I'm at 50,000 KM's right now.
 

XCELLR8

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I have ordered a new 2022 Classic with a hemi. Should I run RL from the start or wait till the warranty is out? I feel that these newer oils do not have the protection of the older oil blends. I say that, as there are issues across all makes of trucks. Chevy has the same lifter issue as the hemi and the rods like to let go in the 5.0 F150s. Is this a product of too much power vs the recommended oil? I don't have any answers, but thoughts my brain thinks about.

I just want to do all I can to make this motor last, if and when I get it.
 
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Burla

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You should never run redline in a new vehicles, says so right on bottle. You want to encourage wear, not discourage it at first 3500 miles. As for what you say, redline isn't api and most rams run great, I wouldn't run redline myself in your situation. Now, if I got hemi tick and the dealer gave me the usual well it's normal go pound sand, then I would run redline and if I ever had to take it in I'd change the oil before the dealer saw the vehicle. If they play games gives you the right to play back.

More importantly look up oil filter thread, there are major differences in media of filters and what that means.
 
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