Which speakers for speaker level input?

[1500widow]

I have a 2016 Ram 1500 cc with the Alpine system and I am upgrading from the factory 8 inch subwoofer to 2 Alpine type s 12s and a Kenwood kac-9106d with speaker level input. The question I have is would I be better off tapping into the rear speaker wires for speaker level input rather than the wires for the factory sub I pulled out? Or will the factory sub input give me satisfactory results for frequency response? I am on an extremely tight budget so one of the PAC interfaces is out of the question atm. I realize the factory sub wiring is simpler, but keep in mind the wife and I had to downsize from my old kicker l5 15s and we want as much bass frequency response from these "little" 12s as possible.

 

[Eestee70]

Take the easiest coarse of action and use the sub inputs.

 

[corneileous]

As far as simplicity, I would just use the factory wiring harness under the rear seat for the sub because it’s right there because you know what it is, what it’s for and you won’t have to go pulling up your thresholds and having to make sure you’re tapping into the right wire for your rear door speakers. Plus, your rear door speakers are controlled by the fader so if you ever move your sound towards the front, you’ll cut power to your sub if you tap into those.

Another thing, the wiring harness that plugs to your sub should be just straight-up bass signals. I know that in my old truck the rear door speakers were just mid bass and highs but once I changed the high inputs to the front subs, the big boom box sounded much better. Worlds better. But of course when I upgraded to my aftermarket pioneer radio and had my subs connected directly to the preouts via RCA cable, I couldn’t really notice a drastic change of bass levels.

As far as not going with that PAC Audio factory amp bypass module thing or even a line out converter, they say that you’ll be at the mercy having the amp’s built-in protection kick in when the volume goes up and that supposedly the signal going to even the factory sub is “watered” down to protect it.


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[baum]

As far as not going with that PAC Audio factory amp bypass module thing or even a line out converter, they say that you’ll be at the mercy having the amp’s built-in protection kick in when the volume goes up and that supposedly the signal going to even the factory sub is “watered” down to protect it.

If you are planning on going directly into the hi-level input on the amp i would consider using the front doors as they are the most "full range" in the vehicle.

Newer amps the high level inputs are 10x better than they use to be. I am running it in my '15 chrys 200 and have zero issues. My amp also has signal sensing so no need for a turn on wire.

If you are using a LOC then i would just go to the factory sub.

 

[corneileous]

If you are planning on going directly into the hi-level input on the amp i would consider using the front doors as they are the most "full range" in the vehicle.

Newer amps the high level inputs are 10x better than they use to be. I am running it in my '15 chrys 200 and have zero issues. My amp also has signal sensing so no need for a turn on wire.

If you are using a LOC then i would just go to the factory sub.

I thought “full range” in a speaker was one that carries lows, mids and highs? If that’s the case, the front door subs are not full range because they are bass only and probably the only ones in these trucks that are would be the rear doors but what’s the difference between the signal of the front subs and the rear sub? I would think they’re the same.



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[adrianp89]

For this - just for to the subwoofer plug.

 

[baum]

I thought “full range” in a speaker was one that carries lows, mids and highs? If that’s the case, the front door subs are not full range because they are bass only and probably the only ones in these trucks that are would be the rear doors but what’s the difference between the signal of the front subs and the rear sub? I would think they’re the same.



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it is, but your factory sub is crossed over at levels some aftermarkets can take. keep in mine the alpine setup is only designed to work with the factory alpine speakers.

 

[corneileous]

it is, but your factory sub is crossed over at levels some aftermarkets can take.

Ok I’m confused, why were you saying beforehand that the front door subs would be the better source to provide the input signal for my new amp and not the subwoofer signal that’s already under the rear seat?

keep in mine the alpine setup is only designed to work with the factory alpine speakers.

Well yeah I get that but the factory Alpine amp isn’t going to be driving my new subs. That new amp is. It’s just gonna be providing the signal.

But I did send an email to JL Audio asking them what they had to say about installing that Stealthbox in my truck to the factory system so we’ll see what they say too.



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[1500widow]

Well yeah I get that but the factory Alpine amp isn’t going to be driving my new subs. That new amp is. It’s just gonna be providing the signal.

But I did send an email to JL Audio asking them what they had to say about installing that Stealthbox in my truck to the factory system so we’ll see what they say too.

If you could, please let us know what the guys at JL say about this!!

 

[1500widow]

Thanks for all the input fellas!

 

[corneileous]

If you could, please let us know what the guys at JL say about this!!

Here ya go!


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