Window wont roll up

[Taylor513]

View attachment 521744
this is a quad cab rear door

issues usually can be found in the wiring harness, between the door & the "B" Pillar

Just for the heck of it
look below the door latch, i think that is where the Child Safety Lock is located, it may or may not cause an issue

Good Luck

I believe I see where you’re talking about. Everything seems to be looking fine. At this point I’m leaning towards a motor issue?

 

[Taylor513]

Well now that I have the window all the way down…. Here’s a video of the up and down switch engaging.

Ram passenger rear window

youtube.com

 

[Jeepwalker]

Did you try unhooking the battery overnight ...trick? Did it work? The reason for doing that is to help isolate if it's within the 'logic' portion of the window operation.

Try holding the switch in the "Up" position and whack the motor with the back of a screwdriver handle (or something a little firmer). Sometimes motors which don't get used a whole lot will get 'stuck'.

You could try to disassemble the switch and see if the contacts inside can be clean..

If you need to get your window "up" right away, because you need to use your truck, then I would pull off the electric window motor, ...then, slide the regulator assembly into the "up" position. Then reinstall everything. The glass should be "up" after that. Come back to it when you have more time.

All the logic for this stuff (windows/locks/security) is managed & controlled electronically, by the switch assembly and the module which is located below the switch in the driver's door. The DRIVER'S door switch is the master. There's a circuit board inside the driver's door switch assembly too. I know it's a PITA compared to the old days, but cars/trucks have been that way for a while now. And then there's the module which manages the logic. When they say there are over 3000+ chips in a truck, ..yeah, they're all over the place. And you might pull the driver's door jamb wire boot back to verify there aren't any wire breaks too.

How to Install Repair Replace Driver Power Window Switch Dodge Ram 09-17

Instead of buying an expensive switch this video shows you how to take apart and repair the corroded connections which usually is the cause for default in th...

www.youtube.com

 

[Taylor513]

Did you try unhooking the battery overnight ...trick? Did it work? The reason for doing that is to help isolate if it's within the 'logic' portion of the window operation.

Try holding the switch in the "Up" position and whack the motor with the back of a screwdriver handle (or something a little firmer). Sometimes motors which don't get used a whole lot will get 'stuck'.

You could try to disassemble the switch and see if the contacts inside can be clean..

If you need to get your window "up" right away, because you need to use your truck, then I would pull off the electric window motor, ...then, slide the regulator assembly into the "up" position. Then reinstall everything. The glass should be "up" after that. Come back to it when you have more time.

All the logic for this stuff (windows/locks/security) is managed & controlled electronically, by the switch assembly and the module which is located below the switch in the driver's door. The DRIVER'S door switch is the master. There's a circuit board inside the driver's door switch assembly too. I know it's a PITA compared to the old days, but cars/trucks have been that way for a while now. And then there's the module which manages the logic. When they say there are over 3000+ chips in a truck, ..yeah, they're all over the place. And you might pull the driver's door jamb wire boot back to verify there aren't any wire breaks too.

How to Install Repair Replace Driver Power Window Switch Dodge Ram 09-17

Instead of buying an expensive switch this video shows you how to take apart and repair the corroded connections which usually is the cause for default in th...

www.youtube.com

I did not disconnect the battery last night. I can that today and leave it disconnected for about an hour and re check on it.

Great idea on the hitting the motor. I’ll do that before I disconnect the battery cables.

I checked all the connections and none of them looked bad or bent everything looking in great shape. If those two above don’t do anything then I’ll pull the boot back from the drivers door and check there too.

 

[Jeepwalker]

I don't know if an hour will do it. To drain all the modules in the vehicle it might take longer ...but won't hurt to try. Tie the cable ends together to drain the modules (not touching the battery terminals **AT ALL** ...of course). Don't screw up that last part...

Don't forget to try to 'bang' on the electric motor while holding the switch"up". I've personally had a stuck motor a time or two (over the years). Probably should make sure all doors are closed ..just to eliminate an open door situation. The door adjar light isn't on when the doors are closed, is it?

 

[Taylor513]

I have the battery disconnected right now. I’ll leave them like that for a few hours. I had more time than I thought.

I hit the motor in different spots while holding the switch up and didn’t get any response from the window.

Nope, no weird lights or anything on my dash. All lights work as normal when opening and closing the doors.

Trying to think of what works cause it to not work in one direction

 

[18CrewDually]

In post #18, while someone holds the switch UP, manipulate each wire by pushing it together around the areas it bends when the door closes. Imagine inside the wire insulation the copper strands could be broken and you're trying to get them to touch to make the circuit. Just because on the outside it appears intact doesn't mean the wire inside is.
I hope I'm clear in that explanation.

 

[Taylor513]

In post #18, while someone holds the switch UP, manipulate each wire by pushing it together around the areas it bends when the door closes. Imagine inside the wire insulation the copper strands could be broken and you're trying to get them to touch to make the circuit. Just because on the outside it appears intact doesn't mean the wire inside is.
I hope I'm clear in that explanation.

Yes, you’re clear with that. I’m picking up what you’re putting down. I’ll give that a try here in a little.

 

[Taylor513]

Actually just remembered my battery cables are disconnected so once I give those some more time I’ll reconnect and try that

 

[Jeepwalker]

If after re-connecting your battery it doesn't work, I would do two things:

1) Jump the Motor Directly - This is a quick way to ensure the motor actually works: Make 2 jumpers and connect one from a motor terminal to body ground. Connect the other terminal to + 12V (from the vehicle) and the motor should move. (You can use a spare 12v batt as long as you connect both jumper wires to the battery). If the motor actuates & goes down, reverse polarity it should go up. If it doesn't the motor is at fault. Even if it does go up, there is a hall effect signal the motor supposedly sends to the module ...but chances are that's probably not the issue (??). Then at least you know the motor is good/bad. After that, I would inspect wiring at the rear door & driver's door. Then the module and so on per the manual below. Obviously, ensure the cable/pulleys and everything with the regulator looks visibly 'good' and moves freely before doing the test. Presumably you've done that already.

2) Here is the Factory Service Manual in the link on THIS page (top link). It should work for your truck. Go to the link at the top of pg 2, & Download the pdf manual. Once downloaded and 'open', navigate to the "Accessories -> Power Windows" section. There you will find a very well written section on how the windows operate incl how to test and troubleshoot, etc. Windows aren't as simple as they were in the 80's/90's. Understanding how yours works for your truck might help you in your troubleshooting process. The problem lies in either mechanical (regulator/motor), wiring (shorts, etc), switches, or modules. But there's too many possibilities for a scatter-gun approach ..which is what I've been giving you (sorry). Having the manual could be handy in the future too.

Hope it helps.

 

[Taylor513]

Alright so just hooked the battery back up after about 4.5 hours and still no power. I’m going to hold the power up while manipulating the wires. Does anyone happen to know which wire is the power for the up switch?

 

[Taylor513]

If there was a bad wire from the drivers side door would that cause an issue or is it isolated to just the door / window that has the issue?

 

[Taylor513]

I’m going to run to the parts store and get a multimeter. Standby for further updates

 

[Jeepwalker]

So much for the unhook battery trick. If you don't get it fixed tonight, I would personally unhook the battery, and modules and the driver's switch. I know it sound crazy, but its a tried & true trick for a lot of vehicles. And it doesn't cost anything to do. You're going to be sleeping anyway.

Get some wire too at the parts store and some connectors. Run +/- directly to the motor (in the service manual). You reverse polarity to go up or down. Ensure it works properly.

 

[Taylor513]

Got it! Multimeter showed no power to the passenger door switch when putting it up but showed 12 volts as it should when putting it down. Was able to get power back to it and now my window is functioning back to normal. Glad all it took was buying a $7 multimeter from Harbor freight to figure it out.

Thank you to everyone who chimed in to provide some help. Appreciate you all. Hopefully this can help someone in the future.

 

[18CrewDually]

Awesome. So where did it lose power?

 

[Taylor513]

Awesome. So where did it lose power?

Lost power at the drivers door panel. So I’ll have to get a new one. Thankfully they’re pretty cheap to replace

 

[Jeepwalker]

Congrats!!

That wasn't too bad. Good work

 

[Hardracer]

I'm confused here which isnt that hard to do ..lol
What part of the door panel has failed? The front master switch(as in a button in it),the module? ....
I've broken both of my rear switch buttons on the the drivers masters at 2 different times....a very awful feeling when a window doesnt work when intended, lucky for me it was a physical break off and the rear door buttons worked fine to get the window up

 

[1 MEAN66]

Take the door panel off! if you do not have time to "DIAGNOSE" leave the panel off till you do. You can not fix anything if you do not know what's broke. Not only do you need to hit the bullseye on the dart board, but you need to at least aim for the correct dart board. The more you do the more you learn, you will as a result fix more things yourself, saving labor cost, but can help others also. once you get the panel off ( have a 12 oz. SMALL hammer at the ready). there are two wire that feed power to the window motor. The automatic up and down is internal in the window module. once you find these you can do your first test ( you will need a quality volt/ohm meter. Quality does not mean expensive (expensive ones can be more durable) Harbor freight has a good selection- get one of their better ones and if they have lead extensions get ones long enough to reach the battery ( just like an extension core you use when the living room light is move to the other side of the room. Lets say the wire are blue and black, when you push the button in the window down direction ( one wire will be hot the other the ground - whether the window moves or not) When you cycle the window by putting in the up direction they will be reversed. If this happens take you small hammer and has you hold the button - or someone does- hit the fat part of the motor. If window works you know what is wrong ( brushes worn in motor) Get a new motor or some only come attached to the regulator assembly. If not you have to find out what the electricity is not getting to the motor. The same two wire will be at the switch, test there the same way if it is ok there a wire is broken somewhere (usually where the go thru the door hinges). Good luck electricity is easy.
lesson 2 is how a river is like electricity! Volume of water = amps, Speed of waters movement= volts, number of rocks in the stream= resistance(ohms)