Wobble in the rear after 2/4 Belltech?

[Geawiel]

I installed the Belltech 2/4. Everything got replaced on the rear and front, except the front tie rod ends. Everything is fine of flat level or even some of the ****** roads. The problem comes in some of ruts on the interstate in my area (so far just that). I got a "death wobble" coming from the rear end. I saw that QA1's could help/completely get rid of that. Does anyone have experience with this issue and use the QA1's to get rid of it? How successful? I saw a torsion bar relocation kit but I would love to avoid that if I can.

I have plans to drag and do some track time if that makes any difference, as well as her being my daily.

 

[rzr6-4]

I got a "death wobble" coming from the rear end.

One does not simply get a "death wobble" from the rear. True death wobble is your front end VIOLENTLY shaking, very nearly breaking, while your steering inputs are little more than a suggestion.

The shimmy that you are experiencing, is it side to side after turning or up and down after hitting a bump? Shocks will only help with the up and down.

 

[Wild one]

I installed the Belltech 2/4. Everything got replaced on the rear and front, except the front tie rod ends. Everything is fine of flat level or even some of the ****** roads. The problem comes in some of ruts on the interstate in my area (so far just that). I got a "death wobble" coming from the rear end. I saw that QA1's could help/completely get rid of that. Does anyone have experience with this issue and use the QA1's to get rid of it? How successful? I saw a torsion bar relocation kit but I would love to avoid that if I can.

I have plans to drag and do some track time if that makes any difference, as well as her being my daily.

You need the relocation brackets for the rear,especially if want to drag race it.Everything else is a band-aid.Relocating the rear arms,helps plant the tires at the drag strip,and gives you some body seperation,which forces the rear tires into the pavement for traction.
Look at the rear arms in my truck in this pic,and the truck is dead stable to 155 mph.

 

[Geawiel]

RZR: It was only when I went over those ruts on the interstate. I did some test driving a couple weeks ago with some tight higher speed corners and it was rock solid. Death wobble was the easiest way to describe it but it did originate from the reat.

Wild: Sounds like I do need to relocate then. I'll work on getting that done. Thanks!

 

[Philipw32]

Hello. Interesting reading. New to the Ram world. Enjoying my truck. I bought it already lowered and it definitely has the wobble and sway. I’m wondering if you guys could post the part number or link to the brackets for relocation. Trying to figure out exactly what I need. As far as I can tell, the only thing they put on my truck were the 4/2 lowering springs.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

IHC Suspension | Suspension Lowering Kits

ihcsuspension.com

 

[Philipw32]

Thankyou. I really appreciate it

 

[abouttobeglue]

Not trying to hi jack, but I've got the ihc brackets and core 4x4 arms on my rcab short bed, been getting a shake from the rear over 60 mph for the past year, any ideas?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

Tires, shocks or your brackets are moving.

I had a wiggle on the 7 to 8 shift over 80. Welded the brackets no more wiggle. Brackets were moving slightly. Could tell by looking at pattern inside bracket where control arm bolted to bracket.

@Wild one recommended weld in addition to bolts, problem solved.

 

[Wild one]

Not trying to hi jack, but I've got the ihc brackets and core 4x4 arms on my rcab short bed, been getting a shake from the rear over 60 mph for the past year, any ideas?

As BigSky stated,look the brackets over for movement,you could also have somebody drive it,while you follow the truck close and watch the rear of the truck and see if anything obvious jumps out at you,like it's dog tracking etc.

 

[abouttobeglue]

I had them installed at a shop aboutb60k miles ago. They welded the corners, I'll check the bolts tomorrow. Appreciate it. Shocks I just replaced last year with belltech sps helped some. The doetsch tech were way too stiff and made it worse.

 

[Geawiel]

You need the relocation brackets for the rear,especially if want to drag race it.Everything else is a band-aid.Relocating the rear arms,helps plant the tires at the drag strip,and gives you some body seperation,which forces the rear tires into the pavement for traction.
Look at the rear arms in my truck in this pic,and the truck is dead stable to 155 mph.

I ordered the relocation brackets and I'm looking over the instructions. One thing has me confused though. It shows cutting off the upper bump stop mount. This would leave me with no bump stops in the rear. I see in your 3rd pic that you have a bump stop. Is this an unnecessary step? I can't see anything in the instructions that would indicate that the bump stop would get in the way of this kit in any way. There just isn't a lower bump perch for a stop to hit.

 

[Wild one]

I ordered the relocation brackets and I'm looking over the instructions. One thing has me confused though. It shows cutting off the upper bump stop mount. This would leave me with no bump stops in the rear. I see in your 3rd pic that you have a bump stop. Is this an unnecessary step? I can't see anything in the instructions that would indicate that the bump stop would get in the way of this kit in any way. There just isn't a lower bump perch for a stop to hit.

My relocation brackets are the earlier Illicit brackets,with careful trimming i got away with leaving the bumpstops in place,although i did trim them slightly. See what you can come up with when you're trimming things,you might get away with leaving them in place with some careful trimming of the upper mount.

 

[ezmoney]

I ordered the relocation brackets and I'm looking over the instructions. One thing has me confused though. It shows cutting off the upper bump stop mount. This would leave me with no bump stops in the rear. I see in your 3rd pic that you have a bump stop. Is this an unnecessary step? I can't see anything in the instructions that would indicate that the bump stop would get in the way of this kit in any way. There just isn't a lower bump perch for a stop to hit.

Did the brackets fix your problem?

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

I ordered the relocation brackets and I'm looking over the instructions. One thing has me confused though. It shows cutting off the upper bump stop mount. This would leave me with no bump stops in the rear. I see in your 3rd pic that you have a bump stop. Is this an unnecessary step? I can't see anything in the instructions that would indicate that the bump stop would get in the way of this kit in any way. There just isn't a lower bump perch for a stop to hit.

I cut my bump stops off at the frame and put rivserts in the curved part of the frame over the rear wheels. There is a hole there already and slight drilling of that hole enlarged it enough to allow the rivsert to be seated then I put the screw in bump stops from bell tech just like those for the front. They work well and I've only hit them once or twice in about 2 years, both times with a trailer hitched to the truck.

You could also consider the small square energy suspension bump stops in the hole after you cut off the original bumpstop cups.

 

[Geawiel]

Did the brackets fix your problem?

I'm installing them this weekend. I got sick after getting back home and it really knocked me on my ass. I've had issues with my nervous system for years as well. I have to slow way down so I can't just do it all in 1 day like I want to. I'm going to get my son to help me and we should be able to do it between Friday and Monday. I take a trip across state again soon, so I'll get to get the full feel of the kit. I'll update after that trip.

 

[ezmoney]

I'm installing them this weekend. I got sick after getting back home and it really knocked me on my ass. I've had issues with my nervous system for years as well. I have to slow way down so I can't just do it all in 1 day like I want to. I'm going to get my son to help me and we should be able to do it between Friday and Monday. I take a trip across state again soon, so I'll get to get the full feel of the kit. I'll update after that trip.

I understand. I have a heart condition and when I installed my belltech kit in 100 degree temp, after putting the front shocks on, I decided I would leave the stock shocks on in the rear, for now atleast. I'm thinking about getting QA1 shocks.

 

[Geawiel]

I understand. I have a heart condition and when I installed my belltech kit in 100 degree temp, after putting the front shocks on, I decided I would leave the stock shocks on in the rear, for now atleast. I'm thinking about getting QA1 shocks.

They made a huge difference for me but that wobble is still there. It just isn't as bad with the QA1s. I had to turn the firmness waaaaay up to get it manageable. Viking Performance also has an option for rear adjustables. What you need should be in my post history.

 

[Geawiel]

I understand. I have a heart condition and when I installed my belltech kit in 100 degree temp, after putting the front shocks on, I decided I would leave the stock shocks on in the rear, for now atleast. I'm thinking about getting QA1 shocks.

I drove a little so far but it's still there. The relocation kit got rid of more of it though. I can still feel it coming on just before it starts. It will then start, and just as quickly correct itself. It isn't much of a wag/wobble (imagine like when a trailer is loaded incorrectly, but no trailer there).

Before the relocation kit, soft settings on the shocks were bad for the wag. Now, not so much. A setting of 8 out of 18 was pretty smooth. Just a slight wag between 30 and 60 mph. Over that (I took her on the interstate for a short 3 mile stretch at 70 mph) and it was gone in almost all instances. It only really showed up when going over bumps or a lane change that takes me over a raised center between the lanes (there are ruts in my area from studded tires).

Settings 9 to 12 shows a little more pronounced, but still pretty minor and self correcting, sway.

I'm at 14 now but I haven't had a chance to drive out of my little town yet. I'll get to try that this weekend as I have to turn into the local bigger town.

The faster I go, the less it happens. Over 75 with the QA1 shocks and it is about 99% gone at 14 out of 18 setting. Between 80 and 95 mph and it's completely gone. She's like driving a race car made out of clouds and held up by angels. Glass smooth and perfectly responsive.

I talked with a local tire and suspension guy that I trust. He's just as baffled. There isn't anything adjustable back there. Everything is torqued to spec. I have all the torque wrenches needed. I have all the torque specs for the entire suspension and everything is torqued to those values. The places I couldn't torque the nut itself, or had to use an extension, got an extra ugga to compensate. I rechecked everything when I did the 4 link relocation. All was still torqued and tight. Nothing loose. No play anywhere that I can tell. Tires were replaced last year. I don't normally drive much, usually around 10k a year, so the tires are practically new. There was no sway before the lower, so I doubt the rims are out of round. Unless stock was somehow keeping them in check and now it's showing with a more responsive suspension.

 

[Bigskyroadglide]

How much weight do you have in the bed or hung underneath (spare tire)? It all makes a difference. Just curious