D-Dub
Junior Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2014
- Posts
- 5
- Reaction score
- 11
- Location
- Houston, TX
- Ram Year
- 2013
- Engine
- 3.6L Pentastar V6
2013 Xpresskit Auto Start
Using DBALL2 and THCHD3 T Harness purchased from Doug43235 on EBay.
Xpresskit Remote Start for 2013 & Up – DBALL2/THCHD3
I performed this install on a 2013 Dodge Ram SLT.
I want to keep these as brief and simple as possible, so I may leave out some common sense stuff, if there are questions I can add to it.
I bought the DBALL2 kit and THCHD3 T Harness with the XKLoader2 from Doug43235 on EBay.
I just hooked up the remote start, all plug and play, no hard wiring for lights, heated seats, defrosters, etc.
The kit included everything I needed for the install. (Again this was strictly for the unit and harness I purchased from Doug on EBay.)
Download the software listed with the kit before plugging in the unit, make sure the toggle switch is in the off position.
• Once the software is downloaded and running, the unit will be recognized when it’s plugged in. Plugging the unit consists of one wire. There is a 4 pin on the flash tool and one on the unit. It’s really pretty simple
• If you buy Doug’s kit, he will give you a login and temporary password to login to a site where the firmware will be flashed to the DBALL2. (Starting with the 2013’s the unit can no longer be pre-flashed.)
• Then choose your year, make, and model and the steps on the website will guide you through flashing the DBALL2.
• Once done with the flashing, the DBALL2 is removed from the flash tool and the install to the truck begins.
Plug in the DBALL2.
• There is 3 plugs on the THCHD3 Harness that attach to the DBALL2. There is a black, red, and blue. The black is attached first, red second, and the blue (Power) last. I attached the black and red and took the DBALL2 to the truck leaving the blue for the very end.
Remove the Kick Panel.
• The driver side kick panel has 2 screws that that come out at the bottom. Then the panel has clips that can gently be popped out to remove it. Be careful as there a couple of wires and cable that you don’t want to rip out of place. (On a side note, while removing the panel the hood release is also attached to this panel, accidentally pulling this won’t hurt anything, but it will scare the hell out of you. Source: I did this….)
Unplug the ignition wire.
• Unplug the ignition plug and there is one on the THCHD3 T Harness that will go in its place. There is also a female receptacle on the harness that will receive the factory plug that you unplugged from the ignition.
Harness Ignition plug in place, factory ignition plug plugged into harness.
OBD Plug and Port
Removing the factory OBD from its location was a bit of a pain. There are two clips on the side of the plug that hold it in place. You have to squeeze these in and push it out through the back. It’s not overly complicated but it took a little time as I didn’t want to break anything.
Once that is out, there is an identical OBD on the harness. (There were two, a white and a black. My original was white so I went back with the white.)
The harness OBD snaps right in where the factory came out.
Then, just like the ignition there is a female receptacle that will receive the factory OBD and a slide clip that will lock it into place.
Notice the black plug in the circle on the left, that’s the other OBD that was not used. The plug on the right inside the circle is the factory OBD into the black female receptacle on the harness. And then out of the circle on the left is the harness OBD port where the factory one came out of.
Toggle Switch
Make sure the toggle switch is in the off position. (sorry should have gotten a better picture of this)
Plug in the Blue (Power) to DBALL2
• The blue plug that I mentioned earlier gets plugged in now which powers the unit.
• Wait for the LED on the DBALL2 to turn solid red.
• That is all of the plugs attached.
• Then you turn the key to the ignition, not start it just ignition.
• Then remove the key.
• Then ignition again. The LED should blink orange slowly.
• Now disconnect the DBALL2. I did this in reverse of how I plugged it in. Not sure if it makes a difference, but nonetheless, unplugged the blue first, then the red, and finally the black.
Final Programming
• Once the DBALL2 is unplugged from the harness, plug it back into the XKLoader2 and refresh the page. It will notice that you are ready to move on to the next step.
• This is the final programming step. When its done unplug the DBALL2 from the XKLoader2 and then its back to the truck.
Final Hookup
• Everything is programmed at this point.
• Hook it up just like the first time, black, red, and blue.
• The LED should turn solid green with a quick orange flash.
• Then (probably the longest part) cleaning everything up.
Clean up
• I found a clip that wasn’t be used by anything so I cable tied all the wires neatly and the pack fit right into this white clip.
• If you look just outside the red circle,top left corner, there is the toggle switch. I wanted to make sure it wasn’t in a bind or in a spot where it could get switched. Not sure what its for but didn’t want to take any chances.
Finishing
• Now just reassemble the kick panel. It goes tight back into place like it came off.
• Then close the door, press the lock button on the remote 3 times within 4 seconds and the auto start sequence should begin.
Hopefully i got everything in here. If there is something I've forgotten or something that you still have a question about, let me know and i can answer and include it in here.
Hope this helps!....
Using DBALL2 and THCHD3 T Harness purchased from Doug43235 on EBay.
Xpresskit Remote Start for 2013 & Up – DBALL2/THCHD3
I performed this install on a 2013 Dodge Ram SLT.
I want to keep these as brief and simple as possible, so I may leave out some common sense stuff, if there are questions I can add to it.
I bought the DBALL2 kit and THCHD3 T Harness with the XKLoader2 from Doug43235 on EBay.
I just hooked up the remote start, all plug and play, no hard wiring for lights, heated seats, defrosters, etc.
The kit included everything I needed for the install. (Again this was strictly for the unit and harness I purchased from Doug on EBay.)
Download the software listed with the kit before plugging in the unit, make sure the toggle switch is in the off position.
• Once the software is downloaded and running, the unit will be recognized when it’s plugged in. Plugging the unit consists of one wire. There is a 4 pin on the flash tool and one on the unit. It’s really pretty simple
• If you buy Doug’s kit, he will give you a login and temporary password to login to a site where the firmware will be flashed to the DBALL2. (Starting with the 2013’s the unit can no longer be pre-flashed.)
• Then choose your year, make, and model and the steps on the website will guide you through flashing the DBALL2.
• Once done with the flashing, the DBALL2 is removed from the flash tool and the install to the truck begins.
Plug in the DBALL2.
• There is 3 plugs on the THCHD3 Harness that attach to the DBALL2. There is a black, red, and blue. The black is attached first, red second, and the blue (Power) last. I attached the black and red and took the DBALL2 to the truck leaving the blue for the very end.
Remove the Kick Panel.
• The driver side kick panel has 2 screws that that come out at the bottom. Then the panel has clips that can gently be popped out to remove it. Be careful as there a couple of wires and cable that you don’t want to rip out of place. (On a side note, while removing the panel the hood release is also attached to this panel, accidentally pulling this won’t hurt anything, but it will scare the hell out of you. Source: I did this….)
Unplug the ignition wire.
• Unplug the ignition plug and there is one on the THCHD3 T Harness that will go in its place. There is also a female receptacle on the harness that will receive the factory plug that you unplugged from the ignition.
Harness Ignition plug in place, factory ignition plug plugged into harness.
OBD Plug and Port
Removing the factory OBD from its location was a bit of a pain. There are two clips on the side of the plug that hold it in place. You have to squeeze these in and push it out through the back. It’s not overly complicated but it took a little time as I didn’t want to break anything.
Once that is out, there is an identical OBD on the harness. (There were two, a white and a black. My original was white so I went back with the white.)
The harness OBD snaps right in where the factory came out.
Then, just like the ignition there is a female receptacle that will receive the factory OBD and a slide clip that will lock it into place.
Notice the black plug in the circle on the left, that’s the other OBD that was not used. The plug on the right inside the circle is the factory OBD into the black female receptacle on the harness. And then out of the circle on the left is the harness OBD port where the factory one came out of.
Toggle Switch
Make sure the toggle switch is in the off position. (sorry should have gotten a better picture of this)
Plug in the Blue (Power) to DBALL2
• The blue plug that I mentioned earlier gets plugged in now which powers the unit.
• Wait for the LED on the DBALL2 to turn solid red.
• That is all of the plugs attached.
• Then you turn the key to the ignition, not start it just ignition.
• Then remove the key.
• Then ignition again. The LED should blink orange slowly.
• Now disconnect the DBALL2. I did this in reverse of how I plugged it in. Not sure if it makes a difference, but nonetheless, unplugged the blue first, then the red, and finally the black.
Final Programming
• Once the DBALL2 is unplugged from the harness, plug it back into the XKLoader2 and refresh the page. It will notice that you are ready to move on to the next step.
• This is the final programming step. When its done unplug the DBALL2 from the XKLoader2 and then its back to the truck.
Final Hookup
• Everything is programmed at this point.
• Hook it up just like the first time, black, red, and blue.
• The LED should turn solid green with a quick orange flash.
• Then (probably the longest part) cleaning everything up.
Clean up
• I found a clip that wasn’t be used by anything so I cable tied all the wires neatly and the pack fit right into this white clip.
• If you look just outside the red circle,top left corner, there is the toggle switch. I wanted to make sure it wasn’t in a bind or in a spot where it could get switched. Not sure what its for but didn’t want to take any chances.
Finishing
• Now just reassemble the kick panel. It goes tight back into place like it came off.
• Then close the door, press the lock button on the remote 3 times within 4 seconds and the auto start sequence should begin.
Hopefully i got everything in here. If there is something I've forgotten or something that you still have a question about, let me know and i can answer and include it in here.
Hope this helps!....
