Year model of 4th gen to stay away from?

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Ole Buck

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I am selling my 04 third gen on Monday. Now my hunt is on for 4th gen. It will be a 5.7 4x4 regular cab short bed. Are there any particular year models that i should stay away from as far as mechanical issues? This will be my first Hemi engine. I am going to buy a blank canvas bone stock truck. It will not be a daily driver. I will photograph and document each and every upgrade I make just as I did on my current build. I plan on doing everything myself except for the gear upgrade. It will be lifted, tuned and running on 38's. I am currently studying the different model packages such as SLT, Classic, Tradesman and whatever else was offered. This will be a new journey for me, and I plan on sharing every bit of it on this forum.
 

crazykid1994

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If you want to run 38s you may want to get a 2500. I myself would feel comfortable running bigger than a 37 on my 1500. I know a few people running 40s on their 1500 with no issues though. I would find one with the 8 speed so 13 and newer with a dial shift. If you plan on tuning it I would try to get a 13 or 14 so you don’t need a pcm swap for tuning. My truck was a base express that I have slowly been adding options to. I added the 5” touch screen and overhead console. I’ll be adding in the power fold mirrors with turn signal and puddle lights. Lifted 3/1 with 35s
 

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Jeepwalker

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The key thing to keep in mind is 2013 was a mid-model refresh year, for the Ram. Although they look the same on the outside, there were significant changes or "upgrades" some say, which make the 2012's different from the 13's. The entire electrical system was improved. The entertainment system was much improved (although I like a regular old-school radio). The front end bumper/grille etc ....a lot of parts are different. They started using the 8-spd ZF tranny, which a lot of owners prefer. The electrical in 13's+ seem to be somewhat more 'buggy' but that might just be a feature of it being more comprehensive. Also, Electric Power Steering was added to the 1500's. There have been a good number of users who've had issues with EPS...and it's rather expensive to replace. But hard to say from forum posts how big of an issue it Really is. Anyway the point of all this is to point out that many items and sub-systems are different between 12's & 13 1500's, and which of those differences are better or worse for your unique needs?

I think the guys who recommend the 2500 for 38's make a great suggestion. It's a heavier truck, nice beefy HD front axle (1500's CV's aren't the most robust for tires that large). Sits taller too! 2500's had conventional hydraulic steering even after 2013. 2012's and below 1500's have conventional hydraulic steering too. Cheap and easy to maintain. I would factor that in if running large tires. Having the 8-spd tranny may or may not be a factor for you since you'll probably be looking to re-gear anyway. If you do your own maintenance, the Chrysler RFE's 6-spd allows the DIY owner to check the fluid via a dipstick (can't on the 8-spd). And it's a solid tranny too. OTOH, will you get the benefit of the 8-spds if you re-gear? Maybe. IDK ...I'll let someone else who's running larger tires answer that. Then you have the whole issue with the transfer case differences. That's been well documented on the site. They're both strong enough, but work in slightly different ways. Lot of youtube videos on it.

You could always buy a regular cab long box 2500 of whatever year you like, remove the box, section the frame and reweld shorter to accept a (replacement) short box. Street rodders do frame mods all day long and a short box (salvage or take-off's) should be easy to find. Maybe you'd even want to put on a Rambox. Regular cab long box trucks probably are the cheapest on the market so you could afford to stick some money in one if you got it for the right $$. Or if you like the look of a 2500 RC/LB (like I do) ..then stick with that. You can certainly haul a lot more.

One other factor often overlooked, a positive for you, is Ram regular cab trucks have more space behind the seat than most other regular cab trucks I've seen. There's a good 13" of space at the bottom and a plastic tray that'll fit gallon jugs and bags of groceries ..tools etc. A not real common dealer accessory was a cab organizer which fit behind the seats along the back of the cab. Mine doesn't have the organizer, I wish it did. What I'm saying is, since you like reg cab's you still have some storage back there ...depending on how far back you put the seat.

Sorry for writing a 'book'. Hope it helps you in your search.

Best of luck!!
 
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Jeepwalker

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Sooooooo, if it was me and I wasn't worried about slick LCD screens (which Chrysler charge you a healthy amt to upgrade the maps and technology anyway -- yer phone works better) ...I'd go with a 2012 2500 and get a real radio that will work like it should for as long as you own the truck. It's HD to handle your 'meats' etc. That would be my recommendation. If you want the LCD 'tech' you might go with a 2016+ 2500.

If a 2500 isn't in the cards for you, a 2012 Tradesman (with hydraulic steering), or a 2016+ 1500 Tradesman (if you want the more modern tech) ...are what I'd go for. And you get the 'better' more traditional transfer case. It'd be better for off-roading if that's in the cards. But you'll probably have to put on beffier front CV axles and be looking at replacing the bearing/hubs quite a bit (oh did I mention they were good for stock but don't seem to be super strong with larger tires?).

That's my take. Other forum members please disagree if you will.
 
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Ole Buck

Ole Buck

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The key thing to keep in mind is 2013 was a mid-model refresh year, for the Ram. Although they look the same on the outside, there were significant changes or "upgrades" some say, which make the 2012's different from the 13's. The entire electrical system was improved. The entertainment system was much improved (although I like a regular old-school radio). The front end bumper/grille etc ....a lot of parts are different. They started using the 8-spd ZF tranny, which a lot of owners prefer. The electrical in 13's+ seem to be somewhat more 'buggy' but that might just be a feature of it being more comprehensive. Also, Electric Power Steering was added to the 1500's. There have been a good number of users who've had issues with EPS...and it's rather expensive to replace. But hard to say from forum posts how big of an issue it Really is. Anyway the point of all this is to point out that many items and sub-systems are different between 12's & 13 1500's, and which of those differences are better or worse for your unique needs?

I think the guys who recommend the 2500 for 38's make a great suggestion. It's a heavier truck, nice beefy HD front axle (1500's CV's aren't the most robust for tires that large). Sits taller too! 2500's had conventional hydraulic steering even after 2013. 2012's and below 1500's have conventional hydraulic steering too. Cheap and easy to maintain. I would factor that in if running large tires. Having the 8-spd tranny may or may not be a factor for you since you'll probably be looking to re-gear anyway. If you do your own maintenance, the Chrysler RFE's 6-spd allows the DIY owner to check the fluid via a dipstick (can't on the 8-spd). And it's a solid tranny too. OTOH, will you get the benefit of the 8-spds if you re-gear? Maybe. IDK ...I'll let someone else who's running larger tires answer that. Then you have the whole issue with the transfer case differences. That's been well documented on the site. They're both strong enough, but work in slightly different ways. Lot of youtube videos on it.

You could always buy a regular cab long box 2500 of whatever year you like, remove the box, section the frame and reweld shorter to accept a (replacement) short box. Street rodders do frame mods all day long and a short box (salvage or take-off's) should be easy to find. Maybe you'd even want to put on a Rambox. Regular cab long box trucks probably are the cheapest on the market so you could afford to stick some money in one if you got it for the right $$. Or if you like the look of a 2500 RC/LB (like I do) ..then stick with that. You can certainly haul a lot more.

One other factor often overlooked, a positive for you, is Ram regular cab trucks have more space behind the seat than most other regular cab trucks I've seen. There's a good 13" of space at the bottom and a plastic tray that'll fit gallon jugs and bags of groceries ..tools etc. A not real common dealer accessory was a cab organizer which fit behind the seats along the back of the cab. Mine doesn't have the organizer, I wish it did. What I'm saying is, since you like reg cab's you still have some storage back there ...depending on how far back you put the seat.

Sorry for writing a 'book'. Hope it helps you in your search.

Best of luck!!
Thank you so much for this. Its like 20 years of knowledge in three paragraphs. Think I will get another cup of coffee and read it again !!!!
 

Light299

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Not sure what engine you're going with but remember Dodge did upgrade the hemi lifters in 2014. Likewise, there are debates on the two types of transfer case (one is traditional, the other uses hydraulically applied clutch packs). I don't worry about the durability of the clutch packs in the transfer case anymore than the clutch packs in the transmission. There were some earlier model years where the controls were an issue though - early on even putting it in 4LO the computer could decide to take it out of 4wd in certain conditions. Later years they removed that "feature" from what I heard.

Keep in mind post 2018 they use a security gateway (you'll need to buy a bypass module to program) and the Fiat computer. The 5th gens make it really easy to get to the security gateway bypass (driver footwell) but I think on ALL the 4th gens it's behind the radio. If 21 or 22 they changed it someone chime in.

Also after the mid cycle refresh they added cabin air filter (if that matters to you). Lots of little stuff like that as the platform got more mature.
 

Mikeffoxford

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I would say 13 or newer and make sure it has the 8 speed transmission.

otherwise if everything looks good and it has the features you want then should be good
I have a 2013 dodge Ram express went through hell new cam shaft lifters at 109,000 new started (well dealer said new but was remanufactured) 3 batteries now going on a new starter again , new oil pan just junk should have never bought it but I learned never Ram Truck again
 

A_mod_too_far

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I have a 2013 dodge Ram express went through hell new cam shaft lifters at 109,000 new started (well dealer said new but was remanufactured) 3 batteries now going on a new starter again , new oil pan just junk should have never bought it but I learned never Ram Truck again
That sucks man, hope you find something that works for ya.
I've had some issues but it was due to how the previous owner used the truck, so far I havent had any problems that I'd say was poor engineering or build quality to my knowledge, but I'm sure I'll be going through the lifter thing eventually.
 

Jeepwalker

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Ole Buck (OP):

Here's something neat to keep in mind: They make newer-looking grilles for older trucks.

Let's say you like the look of the newer 2013+ trucks of a certain model (different models have different grilles). But you found a pretty good deal on a pre 2013 truck and don't care for the cross-hair grille. You're in luck! There are several aftermarket 'upgrade grilles' (Ebay, Amazon, etc) of different styles which *look* like the newer 2013+ truck grilles but shaped to fit and bolt into a pre-2013 truck. So, for example, a guy could put a newer Big Horn style grille with LED's into a 2011 for example ..chrome/black some with LED's etc. Many of these hybrid grilles. are geared towards the 1500's I'm not sure what's available for the 2500's (they're taller).

The older 1500 grilles were trapezoidal-shaped. In 2013 Chrysler changed the shape of the newer grilles ...they're notched at the bottom corners. A sort of polygon shape. So they don't interchange with 2012 and below trucks. The F bumpers are different too. The aftermarket has responded with solutions, however.

So ...looks alone don't have to necessarily determine if you buy THIS truck or THAT truck.

Example (below)

1675106724453.jpeg
 
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Logjammin

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Since I'm on an anti air suspension rant these days...avoid anything with that system...especially if you're in a cold area. Beyond sux when that starts to be a problem.
 

Octane

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I remember the nightmare Lincoln Town car air susp. in the mid 1990s.Never will I have air susp on anything but a semi truck.
 

billyw

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I love my 2015 1500... EXCEPT that it is extremely finicky with electrical upgrades like LED headlights, etc. Other model years seem to be easier to deal with.
 

DILLIGAF

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All 1500 suck if you actually use them as a truck. :evil27:
 

Jrod

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Love my 2016 sport, although I wish I had a 2018 with factory Apple carplay / Android auto..
 

Atcer2018

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The 5th gens make it really easy to get to the security gateway bypass (driver footwell) but I think on ALL the 4th gens it's behind the radio. If 21 or 22 they changed it someone chime in.
My 2018 bypass cable is in the lower driver side knee panel next to the OBD port. Can’t speak for other 4th Gen years. Personally I’d go for a 2018 model as by then all the bugs had been worked out.
 

danielmid

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Love my 2016 sport, although I wish I had a 2018 with factory Apple carplay / Android auto..
I upgraded my wife's 17 Durango to the newer factory unit and it sure is sweet, added a wireless AA adapter so she doesn't even have to plug in either. That's now high on my next mod list for the Ram.
 

svtnos

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I personally wouldnt go older than 2015, only because of the bigger spot for your cell phone in the center console. lol
 
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