Yet another oil thread..

[Alex38]

If you don't want to pay for PUP, I'd be running M1 0w40 or Castrol Edge 0w40 from Walmart. $20-$25 per 5 quart jug, depending on Rollback/Sales. Add lubeguard if you wish.

 

[OLEJOE]

Shell Rotella does come in a 0-40 wt but I think it’s only available up north where it gets really cold. I’m not sure if it is SN rated or not.

 

[Bill Blackmon]

To me it is like the old Fram commercial “pay me now or pay me later” I would not risk changing oil formulations now just to save a few bucks. You can do a lot of oil changes versus an engine rebuild or replacement engine. PUP has taken you this far without issues. Let it take you all the way. I have used PUP or similiar since new and my truck is 23 years old with Magnum 360.

 

[OLEJOE]

Apples to oranges your 360 compared to the Hemi.

 

[Bill Blackmon]

that is very true but engine lubrication where metal meets metal is the same and oils react differenly under various temperatures and pressure. Worked in the automotive industry for over 30 years and have seen some crazy stuff.

 

[reek]

I still think the oil issue is way over thought. just use some decent synthetic oil, change your oil at designated intervals and I'd go out on a limb and say a hemi will go 200k miles easily. realistically, I would sell my truck before that anyway. If you have to get 3-400k out of the motor then, yes maybe drop cash on PUP just in case. but that many miles is still more of an 'wow' range than the usual expected range.

also, as long as the Magnum was brought up, I've just recently rebuilt a 5.2 with 180K on it and 5.9 with 100k on it. both were still within spec when the cylinders were mic'd out. the 5.9 still had visible cross hatching on the walls. both were gov't service vehicles sold out to the public after service. I have a tough time thinking the were treated to PUP or pup equivalent through their service lives.

 

[JS4024]

Amsoil 0-40 signature, with amsoil filter. Do NOT run any other oil than Synthetic 0-40! The reason u need 100% synthetic is because the piston cooling is done by an oil spray. Normal oil temps on my 6.4 are 225. Anything other than Synthetic and you will have sludge issues. U made it this long, why cheap out now???

 

[KLook]

Care to explain the difference between 5W and 0W? I bet no one in here could tell if they saw each poured out of a bottle. Crazy thinking.
I recently picked up a 2014 3500 6.4 and 70,000 miles. I immediately changed the oil and went with Shell Rotella T-6 and put in some Liquid Moly. Noticed the oil change gauge when down much quicker them my last 3 5.7 Hemi's. So I changed it again after about 6000 miles just before making a 7 hour drive to hunt and return....the truck runs flawlessly and does not tick. Now if I could just fix the rear howl.......

 

[Halligan]

I run the PUP 0w40 and change it every 5,000 miles. My local Napa stocks it and and it goes on sale from time to time at $6.00 a quart so I stock up then. I also use Napa gold filters.

 

[Gr8bawana]

Amsoil 0-40 signature, with amsoil filter. Do NOT run any other oil than Synthetic 0-40! The reason u need 100% synthetic is because the piston cooling is done by an oil spray. Normal oil temps on my 6.4 are 225. Anything other than Synthetic and you will have sludge issues. U made it this long, why cheap out now???

That is absolute BS. ANY oil ran too long or dirty will cause sludge, even synthetic.

Care to explain the difference between 5W and 0W? I bet no one in here could tell if they saw each poured out of a bottle. Crazy thinking.
I recently picked up a 2014 3500 6.4 and 70,000 miles. I immediately changed the oil and went with Shell Rotella T-6 and put in some Liquid Moly. Noticed the oil change gauge when down much quicker them my last 3 5.7 Hemi's. So I changed it again after about 6000 miles just before making a 7 hour drive to hunt and return....the truck runs flawlessly and does not tick. Now if I could just fix the rear howl.......

It would have run flawlessly with any other spec oil as well.

 

[brentwasham]

I use the cheapest synthetic I can find for my 3.6L Pentastar and the 3.6L in the wife's GM mushmaster. Usually that comes down to O'Reilly synthetic or Mobil 1, but the truck is 0W-20 spec and Traverse is 5W-30 which are both widely available across the brands. Using coupons and gift card rebates the cost is typically below $20 for a 5-quart jug. All this discussion on adding Moly has got me wondering, now that the vehicles are approaching 80-100K, should I add it or is tne need hemi-specific or for heavy-duty use. So far I've resisted the "high mileage" variants because they charge more and I don't really know its needed. Heard its better for the old gaskets but I'm skeptical, sounds like marketing for $$ to me.

 

[KLook]

The moly was cheap, and realistically, what can it hurt?
I have used Amsoil, Mobil 1, Shell Rotella, Royal Purple,since the 70's when Amsoil first came out. And my last Hemi got 5w20 Quaker State Ultimate. I traded it at 119,000 still humming. The only engine that failed was a 2012 Ram 4.7 that had 4 factory oil changes and I paid extra for the Syn upgrade, Castrol I believe. It kegged at 57k. Did I get Castrol or Dino? I went with the oil change gauge early on. After I went to Royal Purple and made a run to Maine from Chattanooga with a 14 ft enclosed trailer and back. Over 3000 miles. I didn't like that engine anyways....lol. I have no idea what the previous owners put in this 6.4. It had a mopar filter on it. The oil gauge showed it had over 7000 since the last change...it was just black water. I know it is just humming along now with a couple of changes with quality oil. And a little moly.

 

[Zoe Saldana]

Sorry..

I've got a 2016 2500, 6.4 hemi, 125k on the clock. All warranties are expired. While on warranty I did what FCA told me to and ran PUP 0W-40. I'm looking for an inexpensive alternative at the moment. The engine has never had hemi tick or any other issues. I also tend to turn MDS off with the shifter almost every time I drive. The truck has been in south Florida its entire life until now.. I'm back home in the Atlanta suburbs.

I've read of a few folks running Shell Rotella Gas 5w-30, but not many. I've also read of a few folks running Rotella T6 5W-40.. but also not many. I'd really like to find something that is a decent compromise that I can get off a local store shelf.

Any thoughts? TIA..

Oil and filter at a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSL666...olid=2K8XURZ7MJ9ER&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[GsRAM]

I'm running redline 5w-40 in my 6.4 and a royal purple oil filter.

It runs real well and has better oil pressure than the 0w40 pup. It also quieted the engine down a lot.

So far so good. Not much difference between a 0 and a 5w oil. The 0 is more for fuel mileage than anything.

 

[KLook]

I noticed a few pages back that one guy mentioned oil usage...as in consumption. Are others noticing oil consumption with the 6.4? I am seeing it.

 

[GsRAM]

My 6.4 does not use oil. The level stays the same between my 5k PMs

 

[Zoe Saldana]

I noticed a few pages back that one guy mentioned oil usage...as in consumption. Are others noticing oil consumption with the 6.4? I am seeing it.

I put in 7 qts and 8 come out when I drain it.

 

[crash68]

I put in 7 qts and 8 come out when I drain it.

That's explainable with a diesel but not a gasser.

 

[KLook]

I have had engines use oil in the past, not as much as this one is. No leaks, no smoke. I may change the brand next change but am skeptical of that helping. The engine compartment is oily and black. I thought the used car dealer had sprayed some gunk all over it to make it look new, I wiped a lot of it off as I could not touch or lean on anything in there.....maybe an oil cooler leak? Anyone have experience?

 

[Mgrimm1]

I'm running redline 5w-40 in my 6.4 and a royal purple oil filter.

It runs real well and has better oil pressure than the 0w40 pup. It also quieted the engine down a lot.

So far so good. Not much difference between a 0 and a 5w oil. The 0 is more for fuel mileage than anything.

I thought I remember where you use the Royal Purple filter 20-820 instead of the 10-48. It looks like the canister size is 22mm x 1.5 threads on both filters. I'm about to do my first oil change and wondered if there are any fitment concerns going with the bigger filter? I have no idea what oil the previous owner used. I'm only at 28,000K and no hemi tick so will use the PUP 0-40 to start.