ZF 8 speed transmission fluid change

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TotallyHucked

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Good info in here, been reading through this and other threads. I've got 72k on my '17 so I'll be doing this later in the year at the 75k mark. I've got Maxlife in the 4L65E in my squarebody and it's done well, so I'll go that route in the ZF too. Guess I'll also pick up that PPE pan, looks like a nice unit and extra fluid is never a bad thing. Now I've just gotta decide if I wanna do it or have my dad's mechanic buddy get the burns lol

Mine does run hot compared to all the GM trucks I've ever had, it's at like 180-190 with just normal backroad driving. That's a little worrisome, is there a thermostat you can change or a way to get it to run cooler?
 

Wild one

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Good info in here, been reading through this and other threads. I've got 72k on my '17 so I'll be doing this later in the year at the 75k mark. I've got Maxlife in the 4L65E in my squarebody and it's done well, so I'll go that route in the ZF too. Guess I'll also pick up that PPE pan, looks like a nice unit and extra fluid is never a bad thing. Now I've just gotta decide if I wanna do it or have my dad's mechanic buddy get the burns lol

Mine does run hot compared to all the GM trucks I've ever had, it's at like 180-190 with just normal backroad driving. That's a little worrisome, is there a thermostat you can change or a way to get it to run cooler?
Check out Jesse Caulks thermostat delete.

 

TotallyHucked

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Check out Jesse Caulks thermostat delete.

Thanks! I’ll read through that thread tomorrow, I’m sure that’s something I’ll pick up and do at the same time as the service
 

Wild one

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Thanks! I’ll read through that thread tomorrow, I’m sure that’s something I’ll pick up and do at the same time as the service
There's also the RevMax delete kit,but as one early guys to try out the revmax kit,don't do it,Jesse's bypass is superior and way easier to install,while being about a 1/3 the cost of the overpriced revmax kit.Plus Jesse's bypass is easy to remove if you want to restore the truck back to stock.

 

gofishn

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There's also the RevMax delete kit,but as one early guys to try out the revmax kit,don't do it,Jesse's bypass is superior and way easier to install,while being about a 1/3 the cost of the overpriced revmax kit.Plus Jesse's bypass is easy to remove if you want to restore the truck back to stock.



No B.S.

Seriously, sometimes you just make me go
How in the HELP, does he know all this stuff?

I just look at my keyboard in Shame.
 

Wild one

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No B.S.

Seriously, sometimes you just make me go
How in the HELP, does he know all this stuff?

I just look at my keyboard in Shame.
Good memory,lol. Usually anything i read i remember,maybe not as good as 20 years ago,but still not to bad,lol
 

TotallyHucked

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There's also the RevMax delete kit,but as one early guys to try out the revmax kit,don't do it,Jesse's bypass is superior and way easier to install,while being about a 1/3 the cost of the overpriced revmax kit.Plus Jesse's bypass is easy to remove if you want to restore the truck back to stock.

It’s definitely on the list, here’s my temps coming home from work. Completely unloaded. Ambient wasn’t hot at all, high 60s all day. The trans SHOULD NOT be this hot. Even my squarebody with a stall in it doesn’t get that hot unless it’s 90+ outside
67BC377D-D432-48E6-8D2A-D0F8E7228FE2.jpeg
 

RamRob21

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Has anyone tried Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid? Reading through this thread i have not seen any mention of Amsoil. Just wandering why? I have 2021 with 33,000 miles and almost 10,000 miles of towing, should I be looking at a Transmission oil change or wait a little longer?
 

06 Dodge

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Has anyone tried Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid? Reading through this thread i have not seen any mention of Amsoil. Just wandering why? I have 2021 with 33,000 miles and almost 10,000 miles of towing, should I be looking at a Transmission oil change or wait a little longer?
I recall most service it between 60-80K so at 33K you can wait a while unless you feel the need to do so sooner, as to the Amsoil, I recall reading of a few elsewhere who have used it don't recall reading any complaints but as they say YMMV...
 

miketx

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Getting ready to do the pan/drain/fill to my '16 Rebel. I have a Mopar lifetime warranty, so I'm sticking to the OEM pan and fluid.
But if I didn't have the warranty, I would definitely use Valvoline Maxlife. I've put that stuff in a dozen cars/trucks.....Toyota, Ram, Ford, VW......and it works flawlessly in every vehicle. It's really good fluid.

The part of the procedure that bugs me is the whole "get it in 2nd gear/drive it" part. I seriously don't think that is necessary. Every transmission I've changed the fluid on has been ok with just running through the gears in park. I can't see how this ZF trans is any different. Putting it in reverse and then drive a few times should be sufficient to get the fluid EVERYWHERE in the transmission. I am curious if you can use the gear shift +/- on the steering wheel to manually run through the gears while the foot is on the brake. I'll have to try it tomorrow.
 

Wild one

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Getting ready to do the pan/drain/fill to my '16 Rebel. I have a Mopar lifetime warranty, so I'm sticking to the OEM pan and fluid.
But if I didn't have the warranty, I would definitely use Valvoline Maxlife. I've put that stuff in a dozen cars/trucks.....Toyota, Ram, Ford, VW......and it works flawlessly in every vehicle. It's really good fluid.

The part of the procedure that bugs me is the whole "get it in 2nd gear/drive it" part. I seriously don't think that is necessary. Every transmission I've changed the fluid on has been ok with just running through the gears in park. I can't see how this ZF trans is any different. Putting it in reverse and then drive a few times should be sufficient to get the fluid EVERYWHERE in the transmission. I am curious if you can use the gear shift +/- on the steering wheel to manually run through the gears while the foot is on the brake. I'll have to try it tomorrow.
These are the ZF instructions that come with a brand new 8 speed,pay attention to the first paragraph,it's important,as the 8 speed seems to be a bit sensitive to fluid level. You don't have to drive it,like the one video claims,if the transmission has been in operation,the cooler is already full
 

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miketx

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These are the ZF instructions that come with a brand new 8 speed,pay attention to the first paragraph,it's important,as the 8 speed seems to be a bit sensitive to fluid level. You don't have to drive it,like the one video claims,if the transmission has been in operation,the cooler is already full
Well, it does say to drive it to 2nd gear (step #9). Guess I'll give it a shot.
 

Wild one

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Well, it does say to drive it to 2nd gear (step #9). Guess I'll give it a shot.
My understanding is the shift into 2nd with the wheels off the ground and rotating, is to fill the clutch circuits ,it doesn't say "drive" it though. Everything is done while the rear wheels are in the air roughly 8 or 9" and the truck is stationary.You generally have to have the rear of the truck quite aways in the air to level the pan rail. I use my 6 ton jackstands with a couple pieces of 2 X 8's under them to get enough height on my driveway to get the pan rail level
 

miketx

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My understanding is the shift into 2nd with the wheels off the ground and rotating, is to fill the clutch circuits ,it doesn't say "drive" it though. Everything is done while the rear wheels are in the air roughly 8 or 9" and the truck is stationary.You generally have to have the rear of the truck quite aways in the air to level the pan rail. I use my 6 ton jackstands with a couple pieces of 2 X 8's under them to get enough height on my driveway to get the pan rail level
Yeah, I did a practice "leveling" yesterday. My driveway slopes, so I pointed the Rebel nose down, and I still had to jack the heck out of the rear hitch to get the pan level. The back wheels almost started to come off the ground, but not quite. I'd have to put another jack under the rear diff to get the wheels off the ground.

But I will say that the clutch circuits should get enough fluid just going from R to D a few times. I also read somewhere about getting air out of the system....but again, R to D should be fine. But I'll still try to figure a way to get the rear wheels up when I do it. Or just drive it and then let it cool back down to check the level.

Man, do I miss dipsticks in transmissions. It was so much easier.
 

Wild one

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Yeah, I did a practice "leveling" yesterday. My driveway slopes, so I pointed the Rebel nose down, and I still had to jack the heck out of the rear hitch to get the pan level. The back wheels almost started to come off the ground, but not quite. I'd have to put another jack under the rear diff to get the wheels off the ground.

But I will say that the clutch circuits should get enough fluid just going from R to D a few times. I also read somewhere about getting air out of the system....but again, R to D should be fine. But I'll still try to figure a way to get the rear wheels up when I do it. Or just drive it and then let it cool back down to check the level.

Man, do I miss dipsticks in transmissions. It was so much easier.
Why are you trying to jack it up by the rear hitch. Stick a floorjack under the diff,is the way to get the rear tires in the air.You're making it way harder to do,then it actually is,lol. Don't over think the directions,which i think you're trying to do.It's easier to follow the directions to a "T",and do it properly,then under fill the transmission and cook it.They aren't cheap to buy if you're buying a new 8 speed from the dealer,trust me i speak from experience,as that's how i have the directions that come with a brand new 8 speed.
 

miketx

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Thanks.....it was the easiest way to lift the truck with a bottle jack to level the pan as a test. The hitch has a big flat area underneath...perfect for jacking. Just a test, that's all.

My current floor jack has a slow "leak" problem, so I'll probably just jack up the diff and secure it with jack stands.

"Overthinking" is what I do, lol.
 

miketx

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Completed the pan/fluid drain/fill. Nothing to note, except the Mopar OEM replacement pan was missing one of it's four magnets, so I cleaned one from the old pan and installed it. I got out about 5 quarts, and that's about how much went back in. One of the pan bolts is right above the exhaust and didn't allow use of my socket T40, so I had to use a small T40 bit to get it.

I did the sparkplugs at the same time....it was a long day.
 

Wild one

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Completed the pan/fluid drain/fill. Nothing to note, except the Mopar OEM replacement pan was missing one of it's four magnets, so I cleaned one from the old pan and installed it. I got out about 5 quarts, and that's about how much went back in. One of the pan bolts is right above the exhaust and didn't allow use of my socket T40, so I had to use a small T40 bit to get it.

I did the sparkplugs at the same time....it was a long day.
One of these make doing the plugs a little easier.

 

miketx

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Wild one

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Yes, I bought one before I did the replacement. The job would have been way harder without it. I really like the magnetic part. But it didn't make the job easy by any stretch. Reaching the back coils/plugs required laying my body across the engine bay to reach them....not exactly comfortable!
My truck runs a bit of nitrous,so i use the old style copper plugs in it,and it gets new plugs every season,so i know what you mean,lol.The ones i really hate are the back passenger side plugs under the wire harness,i'd like to get my hands on whoever decided a wire harness has to be that tight to the top of the engine,lol
 
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