Zone 1.5” + Vararam

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healthyrx

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Still debating the rear control arms…I keep looking at Core4X4 and Freedom Offroad. My rear is lifted about 2” over stock. Going back and forth on adjustable or not. I most likely will not lift any higher. Either choice is an improvement…
I put core4x4 front and rear upper and lower control arms on my brothers TJ this summer. The tier 3 I think- rubber on one end and Jonny joint on the other. They’re really something.
 

danielmid

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I didn’t realize you had the full rear set up. I have their trackbar. I just wish they had zerks, but in reality is it necessary? Not really.
Just the adjustable trackbar and the fixed length lowers, I'll do the uppers at some point but the lowers tightened up everything pretty well, so I haven't been stressed about doing the uppers.
PXL_20220319_001811042.jpg
 

danielmid

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Also the Clayton control arms are just about the same price as the Cores.

 
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ThunderMug95

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Also the Clayton control arms are just about the same price as the Cores.

Those are super nice!
 
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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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I put core4x4 front and rear upper and lower control arms on my brothers TJ this summer. The tier 3 I think- rubber on one end and Jonny joint on the other. They’re really something.
I really want the Core’s. Get them in red to match my JBA’s …I just wish the JBA’s were not red lol. Black or silver.
Theres a pair of lower Core’s, w/ johnny joint on one end on FB marketplace for $100. Guy didnt want to ship…Pittsburgh area.
 
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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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Exhaust manifold questions…
1. When I go to do this, should the motor be warm when I remove the bolts?
2. The passenger side, top rearmost bolt that has the heat shield attached…about how long is that bolt? I felt the heatshield loose, so I pulled at it. It feels like the entire bolt is pulled out of the head…
 

Wild one

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Exhaust manifold questions…
1. When I go to do this, should the motor be warm when I remove the bolts?
2. The passenger side, top rearmost bolt that has the heat shield attached…about how long is that bolt? I felt the heatshield loose, so I pulled at it. It feels like the entire bolt is pulled out of the head…
Preferrably cold Craig.Things expand and get tighter when they're hot.If you have broken bolts use a welder to weld a nut to the left over bolt stuck in the head.The weld won't stick to the aluminium head,but will to the steel bolt
 
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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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Preferrably cold Craig.Things expand and get tighter when they're hot.If you have broken bolts use a welder to weld a nut to the left over bolt stuck in the head.The weld won't stick to the aluminium head,but will to the steel bolt
The stud I can feel with my fingers when I flex out the heat shield is probably 1.5” long by my estimate. All that should be in the head
 

Wild one

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The stud I can feel with my fingers when I flex out the heat shield is probably 1.5” long by my estimate. All that should be in the head
Sometimes you'll get lucky and the rear stud will break and still have enough of the left over stud sticking out of the head you can grab it with a set of vise grips and back it out.But if not welding a nut to it is your best option,there's a good chance of screwing up the head if you try to drill it and use an easy out
 
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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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Sometimes you'll get lucky and the rear stud will break and still have enough of the left over stud sticking out of the head you can grab it with a set of vise grips and back it out.But if not welding a nut to it is your best option,there's a good chance of screwing up the head if you try to drill it and use an easy out
Except I need to clarify…the stud is attached to the inner side of the heat shield. I can flex the heatshield and the stud comes out of the flange
 

Wild one

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Except I need to clarify…the stud is attached to the inner side of the heat shield. I can flex the heatshield and the stud comes out of the flange
Probably time for the welder then
 

Wild one

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Which means I’m paying someone…grrrr
You can pick up some fairly cheap little migs that plug into a 120 volt outlet,and will do the job for you.Check your local market place / buy-n-sell pages etc,you might find somebody selling a decent mig for a reasonable price

 

danielmid

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Which means I’m paying someone…grrrr
I borrowed a 110 mig and got it done on two flush broken studs even though I'm a **** welder. I wish I'd have known about the washer first trick, but I got it done and it only cost me one pair of vice grips that got welded to the nut on one attempt.
 

danielmid

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I borrowed a 110 mig and got it done on two flush broken studs even though I'm a **** welder. I wish I'd have known about the washer first trick, but I got it done and it only cost me one pair of vice grips that got welded to the nut on one attempt.
PXL_20220529_213517594.jpg
I was running a bit hot on this try
 

Spsully

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For the record, hit or miss trick is to spray the still red hot nut with water. It'***** or miss because sometimes it helps by shocking the steel to cool can shrink faster than the aluminum. If say maybe 60/40 it works.
 
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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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Well the Ram is in the parking deck of the airport and I am in Houston for the better part of 2 weeks. This is my current ride…5.7 R/T AWD Durango…love these things! But I have a feeling the 84251mi on the odo have been VERY harsh…
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1678761553883.jpeg
 

1SloRam

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ThunderMug95

ThunderMug95

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Just saw your post on the Ram FB page, how’s this thing run??
They run awesome. Handles awesome. I truly love these things. Very quick and nimble. Plus its a powertrain we already know. I’d buy one in a heartbeat, just not this livery.
 

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