Approaching 200k miles

[heavya11]

2017 Ram 190 K miles v6. I am going to take it in soon for plugs, coolant, and check over suspension. Anything else I should be doing at 200k? Gets 23mpg, runs quiet, looks good, hoping to get 300k to 400k on this truck.

 

[tron67j]

Belts and hoses are always my thing, I have always found them to be my most common item to break due to age. Congratulations on the milestone (no pun intended)

 

[Daw14]

Transmission,transfer case , differential,brake fluid service.

 

[KansasArt]

I wouldn’t do anything different than what you’re doing now. Obviously you’re staying up on all scheduled maintenance. Just keep doing what you’re doing.

 

[Roadwarrior 1500]

Just a suggestion, have the lower control arm bushings checked.
I have a '17 1500, 4x4, Hemi, 285k.
At about 225k I experienced a row boat feeling at highway speeds, feels like you can't control the truck.
Bushings were shot (see pic), replaced the lower control arms and problem solved.
Keep up with Fluid changes and maintenance and the truck will last.

 

[turkeybird56]

2017 Ram 190 K miles v6. I am going to take it in soon for plugs, coolant, and check over suspension. Anything else I should be doing at 200k? Gets 23mpg, runs quiet, looks good, hoping to get 300k to 400k on this truck.

Welcome to Forum.

Just big time regular MX, fluids, filters and such. Might wanna keep an eye on the water pump and serpentine belt/idler arm. That is a lot of miles. Odd thought, radiator MX, like maybe new cap, and such.

 

[Jeepwalker]

Undercoating! You're in WI.
Maybe you've already done it a long time ago. GREAT...if you have. If not, best make an appointment asap. Once it starts to rust it's too late. And a crappy looking truck will erode some of the pride you currently have in it. And then most guys are less likely to continue to keep on top of maintenance that keeps them running great for a long time.

Best to just take it somewhere. At the very least, shoot some oil with a squirt gun up over into the rear wheelwells. A guy almost needs to remove the rear plastic inner wheel house protectors, park the truck at an angle where one side is lower. Then lay a bead of oil on the wheel lip and let the truck sit overnight (reapply a couple times), so the oil will get drawn "UP" between the two seams. Why do you need to do this? Because Ram put a bead of caulk about 1/4" from the bottom of the wheel lip between the inner/out box sheet metal. So any rust-proofing you put above the caulk probably won't get down below it...and protect the actual wheel lip.

Also, get oil in the bottom of your trucks box frame. That area will rust too. Look at box frames on any truck which are 10-15 years old. They're all rotted out along the bottom. And some oil on the gas tank support (which DO rust!). Maybe the square tube channel under your actual box (they rot out!). Squirt a bunch of oil in them and take a long piece of wire and pull an oil-saturated rag from one side to the other. Just go to the salvage yard and look at old trucks and that'll tell you where to lube them. (door/tailgate bottoms...hood front corners, rockers/cab corners ..box corners. Lot of undercoating places don't hit these more unusual spots. Including that pesky area behind the driver's fender RAM badge that eventually rusts out! Just get your oil squirt gun and go to town.

Sounds like a nice truck. Congrats

 

[Jeepwalker]

Oh...also it would probably be a good idea to have them lift up/down on rear axles. Check for wear. the bearings ride on the axle shafts like GM's. Expect a little extra ovement. When/if the lash becomes greater, it would be a good idea to put in new axles & bearings. They might make it to 400k, but it's something to at least check.

One thing I *wouldn't* do is lubricate the door hinges. Chrysler uses a bushing which consists of what appears like a highly compressed graphite and brass material...which look 'cheap' in construction when compared to a sintered bronze bushing, but they last an amazingly long time IMO. I lubed up jeep door hinges on an older Jeep, years ago, and that seemed to cause them to fail. Eventually the hinges will wear anyway (Look how LARGE Ram doors are!) ...but then just replace the hinges. They aren't that expensive.

 

[Jeepwalker]

There are a couple major grounding points you might have the shop check/clean: Above the driver's side wheel, and back by the fuel filler tube. These can get really rusty on trucks (in the north) and lead to pesky electrical issues. Making sure they are cleaned/loosened-tightened, and sprayed down with lube will be good preventative medicine. Once they get *really* crusty, then you're fighting an up-hill battle.

 

[Elkman]

Do only what is stated as necessary in the owner manual. Too often mechanics recommend things like transmission flushing that creates problems for the owner.

 

[Floyd1979]

2017 Ram 190 K miles v6. I am going to take it in soon for plugs, coolant, and check over suspension. Anything else I should be doing at 200k? Gets 23mpg, runs quiet, looks good, hoping to get 300k to 400k on this truck.

The 2009 Lonestar crewcab Rambox hemi
442,150 on original power train