Real performance tricks

alright, having made major progress on the replacement of the fuel system on my truck, i think its time to start a discussion on something every young adult wants: performance. i have a few questions regarding the engine trans and rear axle on my truck, so lets get started.

the trans- my 87 w100 power ram is equipped with an automatic trans, no overdrive. can this trans handle an increase in horsepower/torque, and can it handle light towing (one vehicle on a trailer, or pulling someone out of a ditch)

the engine- what are some popular cams for this engine? im looking for maximum torque, its a truck after all. also, should i upgrade the entire valvetrain, and heads, or am i OK sticking to just a new cam?

with heads, if i were to install 340 or 360 heads, what sort of modifications are required, and what modifications are recommended?

now one thing i was interested in doing was converting to efi, which edlebrock has kits for. is this worth the money, will it help the performance or reliability, or is this just a great way for me to waste a good chunk of money making my vehicle worse? it currently has a holly carb, i believe 600 or 650 cfm (need to check, been to busy on getting the truck road worthy to look at performance parts). i have been told 600-650 cfms is the most i should really go on the 318 la, is this accurate?

headers/exhaust. i have been told to just replace the rusted bits of the exhaust and be done with it, but id like to install a performance exhaust system. is this worth the money, and are the kits available from such sources as summit racing actually compatible, or am i going to need to do modifications to the exhaust, engine or truck to get the system to fit properly?



now with the axle, i know i want a locker or a limited slip for both axles. i have found plenty for the dana 44 that sits up front, but not for the 9.25" rear end. is it worth trying to find an lsd for this axle, and if so what companies should i check out? or am i better off looking for a new axle?

at this point im trying NOT to waste all of my money on this truck, its high miles and i bought it cheap, id like to keep it cheap so i can abuse it as a work and play truck, until i have the finances to further upgrade the vehicle, or replace it. thanks in advance for any advice you may give- Alex

trans should be fine if in good shape

rv/towing cam would be the best bang for your buck. you should also replace timing chain.

340 heads might be a bit of an upgrade not really necessary. 360 heads need to be machined to go on a 318 or you will loose compression which will lead to power loss.

fuel injection would make it more fun to drive but it is really hard to say if it is worth what they are asking for a kit.

headers and a new exhaust might help it breath but the stock system should be fine.

you should look a bit harder for lockers/LSD's. the 9 1/4 rear end was used for many years and i think it is actually still used the newer trucks.

crazzywolfie said:

you should look a bit harder for lockers/LSD's. the 9 1/4 rear end was used for many years and i think it is actually still used the newer trucks.

Click to expand...

Correct the 9 1/4 diffs are still in use. You can even get a lsd in a new truck.

I was considering the Holley FI kit as well. Its about $1100 and moderate skill install per my friend that put one on. He said it was worth it, that the fuel economy savings is about 2-3 mpg better. But its way more responsive and starts right away even on the coldest mornings in MI. My 2 cents

I've read about people taking 360 magnum heads/intake manifold/TBI/ and Computer and mounting them on an LA 318. Here are a couple good articles on some interesting 318 builds. I found this info researching what to do with my LA318.

Chrysler LA Engine Build - How To Build A 500HP Small-Block Chrysler Stroker - Car Craft Magazine

Chrysler 318 Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/113-0304-318-small-block-build/

an electric fan install made a difference for the butt dyno on mine. got a fan for $15 out of a junkyard and $50 for a controller on amazon. definitely worth it if you ask me. especially since it is controlled by manual on and off, coolant temp, or anytime the a/c is on.

electric fans seem to make the gas mileage worse. i also find the only nice thing about electric fans is the silence. otherwise no performance gain.

How does it make mileage worse when it frees up horsepower & rotating mass

92 Mag manifolds Magnum heads are a huge improvement in power etc

Makes the old alternator work more.

DodgeAddict said:

How does it make mileage worse when it frees up horsepower & rotating mass

Click to expand...

i don't know. i found the best mileage i was able to obtain was with the stock mechanical fan installed. never been able to match the fuel mileage since i took it off.

dodge dude94 said:

Makes the old alternator work more.

Click to expand...

thats not it. most of the time the fans usually stayed off and mileage was still never as good as the truck was with the mechanical fan.

That's why he should upgrade to a newer Denso style alternator 150-200 amps All my Dodges wear them
My CrewCab got 19 MPG HWY electric fans & all & was faster than the new Hemi Ram from 70 MPH to 100
Just Saying

my mileage has stayed the same. right at 12 mpg. though the performance gain might not be much but for $65 it's worth it. many small things add up after a while. and with a 120 amp alternator it is plenty to push an electric fan and all other loads.

The higher the amp alt the more hp it takes to run it, proven fact. The more load you put on a alt the more hp it takes to run it, proven fact. I have never been sold on the elec fan idea or it would have been done by now to my truck.

A CC getting 19 mpg at what speed and what motor?

Carbed Magnum with 518 trans lowered well tuned also it didn't just go together that way
I played with carb & exhaust changes, tire sizes etc
19 HWY @ 70MPH with the cruise on manually switching the trans lockup & OD

Ok well I will keep my opinion to myself.

If the op still wants help I will get back in this thread.

Higher amp alternators don't work as hard therefore requiring less energy to make them work
Nothing like the 4-8 horse that's lost to a regular fan if the clutch works right & you still have to turn the alternator
Now another know fact is that alternator doesn't run that fan all the time in fact you will find out that fan really doesn't run until in traffic when setup right on a thermostat

May as well keep your opinion to your self because you seem to have a problem with other people who don't agree with you
I tune one I just don't throw one together & say that's it because the magazine & my buddy says it works.

The only thing i can help you with is the axles here...the chrysler 9.25 and dana 44 have been used on jeeps for years. You should be able to find many limited slips for those carriers but from what ive seen they'll run you at least $600

Hope i could help as i dont know much about 1st gen gassers lol

Here's a 200 amp Denso used with a complete underdrive pulley set even if my electric fuel pump & fans put extra load on it I'm not loosing Did I mention a serpentine setup without the underdrive pulleys is worth 11-15 alone in HP less friction than a Vee belt