I thought so, wonder why they not it to be for 2-4" lifted 4x's.... Maybe cause its sold with the links.
I'm thinking to order one up to replace the smaller one on my truck. This I'd see any gains from that extra 1/2"?
I don't see why the bigger bar wouldn't fit; same chassis and all; as you stated you may have to play with end link lengths to get it right but that's not too difficult of a challenge in my mind and worth the effort. I am going to be test fitting and 1 1/4" rear bar to better compliment the 1 1/2" front bar for a fairly aggressive sway bar package. I can report fitment if you're interested.
Rob from No Limit Engineering feels trucks tend to need the rear bar closer to the size of the front bar size essentially because trucks just don't handle like cars.
here's his thoughts on it:
"Lets get back to the main topic, HANDLING. One of the best upgrades you can do is swaybars. Swaybars, or Anti-roll bars, work by adding traction (downforce) to the outside tire. To do this, the swaybar has to take downforce away from the inside tire. So if you think about it, you can go 'too big' on the bars. If you went so stiff that the inside tire lifts off the ground, then that tire isn't helping at all. The balance between the front and rear bars is called "roll couple", and here's where a truck layout changes normal thought. In a normal performance car, with say 52% front weight and a low CG, the roll couple needs to be up around 80% (calc for this is really complex, so think of this as a comparison number), but in a truck, with 58% front weight and a higher CG, you actually need to move the roll couple BACK, maybe to 65%. This means that in comparison to a Camaro that would run a 1 1/4" front and a 7/8" rear, the truck would tend to 'need' a more evenly matched bar set. Say 1 1/4" front and 1 1/8" rear. Most retailers/manufacturers are missing this and selling bar sets in 'car' sizing, so be careful.
From the set-up you have now, you can use the following rules for tuning.
A larger FRONT bar will "tighten" the chassis, making the truck tend to push, or not want to turn into a corner, also the rear of the truck will seam a bit stickier. A smaller front bar will do the opposite.
A larger REAR bar will "loosen" the chassis, the truck will turn into a corner easier, but the rear may want to slide around."
"Caster is a tricky thing. More + caster will give you added steering feel, or driver input, but, it will make it harder to turn. With modern power steering, the additional effort needed to steer is not really noticed. The overall goal is to keep the tire contact patch as large as possible. Remember that as you turn, all sorts of forces are acting on the tires, pushing and pulling them around. As the sidewalls and tread flex, the patch gets smaller, and you loose traction. Setting up in anticipation of that flex is what were trying to do. I would be willing to give up some of the contact patch/traction when going straight, and max traction isn't needed, to gain some in a corner entry where it is needed. Stock trucks came with 1* or 1 1/2* + caster.
Roll center height is a tougher goal to hit. Lets think about what is "reasonable" to achieve. It would be awesome to set the RC at the same height as the spindle pin centerline, but thats not going to happen. As a general rule, "higher is better", for RC. Try to keep it above 1/2 of the spindle height. So, if the tire diameter is 27", spindle height will be around 13", try to keep your RC above 6 1/2". This means drop spindles in favor of springs. Try to keep the swaybars close in size. 1 1/4" front with 1 1/8" rear is good for more streetable trucks, 1 1/2" front with 1 1/4" rear for more aggressive handling. - Remember that increasing caster will raise the pivit point ot the outer Tie Rod End, and could create additional bumpsteer, which will ned to be addressed in your design calcs."
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