Clockspring for Intermittent Airbag Light

toyv84x4 · Feb 20, 2015

So all I remember doing was changing the turn signal bulbs in the rear clusters. Remember we have them located in the reverse light over here in the UK so this wiring has already been modified.

Now I have intermittent Airbag light when cruising up to a junction, steering and braking at low speeds. Which to me suggests the clockspring? What do you guys think?

All wiring under seats looks good.

I also get a rumble on the steering column / pedals which sounds like a motor running in the engine bay at low speeds also whilst steering? Is that normal? I have not had a US vehicle before? Sounds like something is pumping up for the brakes or steering? Only lasts 2 seconds, does it about three times at junctions. Goes away at higher speeds. It has always done this. Wondering if it's linked to the Airbag data?

If you guys think it's the clockspring is there a safe way to change it? I can't find a link to any safe proceedure.
Lastly I notice this truck has a separate horn button. I assume the last owner had problems with the horn buttons and didn't want to replace the airbag which I believe is integral to the buttons?

Again I'm re-loving pre-loved trucks.

toyv84x4 · Feb 22, 2015

I kept pressing the airbag/horn trim yesterday wishing it to work. After about 15 pushes left , right and in the centre I heard the horn sound? Now the horn works from the centre of the steering wheel.

Is it the case you just have to give new love to pre-loved truck and they repair themselves?

Well no the Airbag light still coming on. I'm just going to replace the clockspring after a little more research. My cars and trucks have never been to a garage or dealer in the last 24 years so I will see if I can keep this tradition going. (I lie toyota gave me a recall for a 18 year old import vehicle, some champagne and a loan car so I enjoyed that dealer visit if a little time consuming).

Trenton · Feb 22, 2015

check your front wheel sealed hubs for wear that's a common cause of the rumbling.

toyv84x4 · Feb 22, 2015

I really think the rumble is a motor or even the PS pump as it is not in sync with the wheels / bearings turning. More like a washer bottle motor sound coming through the steering or pedals pumping up for the steering or brakes due to the extra resistance at low speeds. I will get there in the end

toyv84x4 · Mar 11, 2015

So finally got around to replacing the clockspring. Followed proceedures found online and was fortunate to have no airbag deployment. I don't know if that is all an exaggeration or fear tactics but with no power it didn't deploy.
No more ABS light coming on now so fixed.
I used a dorman part. Made some scraping noises on first wheel turning but that stopped straightaway. I can hear the ribbons in the clockspring rattling over bumpy roads which may be a sign of quality. Maybe it will go away in time but it's fixed.

toyv84x4 · Mar 12, 2015

and after a days driving it has stopped rattling. Must be the ribbon inside unravels and reaches a balance state and goes quiet. Handy to know for anyone doing this repair.
I took the old spring apart and the ribbon inside looked new with no breaks so maybe there was just a loose connection somewhere on the plugs? Either way it's fixed. Now back to wheel and tire mods.

toyv84x4 · Nov 10, 2015

So the problem is back - ABS and Brake Lights on when I do some steering turning just as before. The lights do go off with straight steering so does correct itself and all cruise etc will work again as normal.
This all suggests clockspring again but is it? I replaced it before and it has lasted 8 months? Also the one removed " looked" fine although that says nothing.
I am guessing both clocksprings were fine and there is another issue but it does trigger on the steering? Anything else causing the issue? any wiring under seat?

toyv84x4 · Dec 3, 2015

HELP

is the clockspring the only thing that can cause this?

I lift the front tires off the ground and turn the steering wheel to the left and the abs and brake lights come on, the unit chimes and the pump goes silly on the ABS.

Same as before but I already changed the clockspring and it lasted only months till this has returned. Anything else in this circuit? (changed speed sensors on the front - still does it stationary anyway)

Is there anything else that can cause this? One thing my steering wheel is off by a few degrees to the right for dead straight. Also the steering pulls to the left but don't see these things affecting it?

jwheeler · Dec 3, 2015

You need to pull the codes and see why the warning lights are coming on. It will likely tell you exactly what the problem is. Anything you do before that is just guessing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

toyv84x4 · Dec 3, 2015

Thanks - this is a dealer job right for a DRBIII
I never want to go to the dealer here in the UK - could take days
I thought I could make a lucky guess since the clockspring fixed it before?

toyv84x4 · Dec 9, 2015

So I tried wriggling the wires on the front speed sensors and the brake hoses with the truck in park, running, stationary.

The airbag and brake lights illuminated on the dash from the right side front - simple right must be the sensor?

Ordered a new sensor and replaced. When I took the old out the ohms reading varied on it when you wiggled the wires so proved to be faulty.

Great - all fixed? Nearly, I get NO MORE error lights on the dash but now at 5-10mph when braking I still get the ABS pump running and associated noises / self test rumblings when it tries to push the pedal up - makes the horrible noises worse than ever and nearly every time I hit this speed from slowing down.

What have I got now? Messed up ABS Brain module? Messed up Pump parts? Master Cylinder? Air somewhere?

I have a rear speed sensor also which I got and will swap just to be sure but I think its the ABS module fried from repeat sensor reading failures and running the pump.

toyv84x4 · Dec 9, 2015

So I will change the rear sensor and then if that doesn't fix I will get the thing on a DBRIII.

I have never had a car at the dealer for the last 25 years. The times I've been there for others and parts has been the slowest, sadest waste of time much like a hospital visit where you practically diagnose the illness yourself, push for the correct repairs. I guess this is exactly why DBRIII was invented to prevent wrong diagnosis. Just will take them 2 hours of domestic booking, seating, waiting to plug the thing in.

Anyway now thinking the exciter rings may have lost one or more magnetism on the teeth as the bearings feel fine even with load and a good shake. Still maybe nearly as cheap to swap out the bearing and sensor in one go.

I'm new to all this extra bull sensor rubbish electrical dealer power. I guess it's the way forward?

The biggest bomb will be if the module is fried

toyv84x4 · Dec 12, 2015

It's fixed !!!!!!!
I had nearly given up.

The way the module was buzzing I thought it was fried. Got worse until on a lot at low speed. My last attempt before dealer and days lost was to swap out the rear speed sensor on the pumpkin.

The sensor had a bit of metal hanging and a bit of magnetized hedgehog but nothing too much. Anyway I really thought it was not at fault but all fired up and all is back to normal. Did some ABS brake stomping and tests. No lights all working well.

So I have a feeling I never had a faulty clock spring although it did fix the horn.

One fault was the front right sensor which triggered the ABS fault code / light when turning so was an intermittent broken feed from the sensor wiring. That stopped the lights coming on but not the pump triggering.

Second fault was the rear speed sensor. Causing the module to go crazy.

So I have learnt a lot about these sensors and the wiring.
No dealer required and full road inspection due Monday so should pass. I think myself lucky. Any hassle next time and it's cheaper to change all sensors than going to a dealer here in the UK anyways.

toyv84x4 · Dec 12, 2015

This must be standard stuff to a lot of you.

A DRBIII should be a sofware program that you run on your laptop and plug straight in to the ECU / ABS etc.

One thing I have noticed is the speedo goes fully to 0 now whereas before it said 1-2 mph. So it may be an obvious sign to replace the rear sensor as it controls the speedo. I guess the ABS thought the wheels were slipping from the front to rear. The fine bits of metal on the sensor magnet were giving the false readings - like a charge value. I just never suspected the rear as the speedo was generally accurate and didnt jump about or fail at all.

So if you have intermittent ABS and BRAKE lights.

Wriggle left sensor and brake line

Wriggle right sensor and brake line

Then check Ohms from each
Then check mVA from each when spinning the wheel and looking for increase
The two front sensors arrive at the harness to ABS module in a row of four so you can check the readings again here to check continuity of the wires again.
I also had a slightly corroded pin in this plug.

If you have continual ABS pump running at 5-15mph and a speedo reading above 0mph when stationary then it points to the rear speed sensor.

All this could be any sensor causing a speed / slip variation or in my case two sensors at the same time. I hope I have avoided DRBIII at least this time. The two dealers I spoke to said they didn't have it just the latest system. It's not like the US here.

Clockspring for Intermittent Airbag Light

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