Changing transmission fluid- flush or drain?

diverjer · Oct 29, 2012

My Ram 1500 has 166,000 and I am sure the fluid has never been changed. I bought this truck on Oct 2 and for the most part all is running good. Trans is a little slow shifting when cold. Changed oil and filter. Changed Dist cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I am positive they were the originals. Also, spent time cleaning throttle body, it was nasty.

I am thinking of just dropping the tran pan, put in new filter, adjust rear bands, clean pan and reassemble. Also adjust front bands which can be done easy enough.

Then it has been mention I should go get a power flush, which I understand gets all the fluid replaced. But it seems to me it will also circulate a lot of gunk around that would normally not be traveling around in the transmission. That could cause problems.

Question is should a filter, clean pan and band adjustment be enough or is there a compelling reason to have a flush done?

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

IMO, I would simply do the drain and fill with a new filter. If it's never been flushed as far as you know, doing a power flush could lead to troubles.

Okiespaniel · Oct 29, 2012

I wouldn't do the flush but would suggest removing and cleanig (or completely removing) the check valve up by the radiator and flushing your cooler and lines if your tuck has one.

nim81 · Oct 29, 2012

i would also recommend not doing power flush.

diverjer · Oct 29, 2012

Lot of good ideas and kind of goes with what i was thinking about flushing. I had someone suggest putting a plug in pan and draining every so often for awhile, don't know how to do that, perhaps they have kits to drill, tap and put in plug.

One time I let some fluid pump out of the return line, but that may not be good idea.

How would I flush cooler lines, use air compressor, I don't have a power flusher.

diverjer · Oct 29, 2012

SmokedRam said:
IMO, I would simply do the drain and fill with a new filter. If it's never been flushed as far as you know, doing a power flush could lead to troubles.

You think I should leave the band adjustments alone?

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

When I had my trans in my Gen2 replaced, the installer wouldn't even honor the lifetime warranty unless I had the check valve deleted. I also had them throw in an aftermarket trans cooler. I too, would highly suggest deleting the check valve too.

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

diverjer said:
You think I should leave the band adjustments alone?

IDK really, most the guys I have heard doing them, experience problems after. But I will assume, that they were messing with something that they really had no experience in doing.

Also, to save you a little money, if you have an Advance Auto Parts near you, their brand of ATF+4 is rebranded Valvoline ATF+4...buy it...

nim81 · Oct 29, 2012

last time I adjusted the bands on a 46re, the mutherf'r went out. had to rebuild it. followed all directions to a t, and double checked all adjustments down to the inch pound

diverjer · Oct 29, 2012

I have never adjusted bands, but it seems simple if you have a good torque wrench. Basically loosen lock-nut, lubricate area, torque to specs, back off the number of turns per specs, tighten lock-nut and be sure and hold adjustment screw so it don't tighten as you tighten the locknut.

On mine its torque front 72 inch lb, then back off 2 7/8 turns. Rear same torque, but only back off two turns. I think what sounds key is to hold that adjustment screw so it don't turn while tightening locknut.

Here is a stupid question, what is deleting the check valve. I know what a check valve does only allows fluid to go one direction, I am assuming there is a check valve that some suggest be removed. Not replaced, but removed.

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

diverjer said:
I have never adjusted bands, but it seems simple if you have a good torque wrench. Basically loosen lock-nut, lubricate area, torque to specs, back off the number of turns per specs, tighten lock-nut and be sure and hold adjustment screw so it don't tighten as you tighten the locknut.

On mine its torque front 72 inch lb, then back off 2 7/8 turns. Rear same torque, but only back off two turns. I think what sounds key is to hold that adjustment screw so it don't turn while tightening locknut.

Here is a stupid question, what is deleting the check valve. I know what a check valve does only allows fluid to go one direction, I am assuming there is a check valve that some suggest be removed. Not replaced, but removed.

I have a pic of it in my photobucket album...give me a few mins to find it and I'll post it up,

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

diverjer · Oct 29, 2012

Okay thanks, here is what mine looks like, I always wondered why it is so greasy, well for the three weeks I have had it. I don't see a clip on where hooks to radiator, there is a similar connection on the hose below that has a clip, guess i got a lot to learn on these Dodges. Last Dodge i had was a 1957, with a push button auto tran. Was like a tank- great car. So that is a return hose?

SmokedRam · Oct 29, 2012

Yes, I believe so...the check valve keeps fluid from draining out of the torque converter...as far as I know. But it gets caked up with clutch crap and debris, thus overheating the transmission.

Bigtman07 · Oct 30, 2012

I can attest to a well maintained trans. In mine I have it serviced annually. I have the pan dropped, fluid changed, Filter changed, and bands tightened. They also check the CAD and the Diff Fluid while it's up in the air. Lucky for me these guys are dodge guys and know all about the trans. MY truck has always shifted firm and doesn't get overly hot.

But in your case I will agree that the check valve should probably go mia. Get a new filter and fluid. Bands could go either way.

diverjer · Oct 30, 2012

These two transmission hoses have what looks like different attachments to tubing. The top greasy one is the one with a check valve and I believe is coming from transmission and does go in bottom of radiator, the clean hose (well not greasy) comes from cooler behind A/C condenser. The top greasy connection looks like what I have seen on this forum, the bottom one looks like it would take a different tool to release. I am going to replace this hose and was going to disconnect both and use compressor to gently blow out cooler between radiator and condenser. Is this cooler an add on or is this what Dodge has from factory? There is line going in bottom of radiator, comes out top of radiator into cooler behind condenser, then back in engine compartment to transmission. Also I am thinking I will put in drain plug and drain out several times over a month.

SmokedRam · Oct 30, 2012

It is what Dodge installed from the factory. IDK if I'd be putting compressed air in it though. To get those connections off, you simply need one of the cheap quick disconnect tools, available at any parts store.

diverjer · Oct 30, 2012

Okay, thanks. I understood the top greasy one and how the quick disconnect slides in there and it pulls off. That bottom one looks like that clip is in the way, like it is a different setup.

Changing transmission fluid- flush or drain?

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