Engine won't keep running.

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becraftc

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Anderson Creek, NC
Ram Year
1995
Engine
5.9L 360
I've got a problem and can't find the solution in the search. I own a 1995 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 SLT. It came with a 318 but supposively it was changed to a 360. I don't know how to check it. It has 236,000 miles (about 500 miles from me) and has been abused by the previous owner. Went to Charlotte, NC to go see Santa Claus. It was about 120 miles one way. On the return trip we stopped and filled up on fuel. We made it about an hour into the trip and the engine started sputtering and bucking and we were able to limp off of the interstate. When we got to the light the engine died and wouldn't start again. After sitting at the light for a couple of minutes scratching my head I tried it again. Started perfectly and drove fine to the gas station 1/4 mile away. Got out, looked everything over and could not find anything out of the ordinary. No leaks, oil, trans, and coolant levels fine. Decided it might have been a fluke and tried going again. Left the gas station and about a mile down the road completely died, no sputtering. Waited a couple of minutes, fired up and went another half a mile before dying. We ended up having to go about 17 miles to get to the next gas station, one half mile at a time. Took about an hour and a half. After getting to the gas station we (myself and some other gentlemen spending time at the gas station) looked everything over again. We discussed that it sounded like the fuel filter or fuel pump, maybe water in the gas. We put in fuel treatment and it continued to do the same thing. It will start and idle fine, I can rev the engine for extended periods of time in neutral and it's fine, but if I start driving down the road somewhere between 30-60mph, different gears, different RPMs, it will just shut off. I've been trying to locate a fuel pressure gauge to test the pressure on the pump, but don't want to pay $50 for a one time use. Any help would be appreciated.

Things I've done to the truck in the past week prior to this problem.
SeaFoamed Engine
Oil Change
Replaced Air Filter
Replaced Wheel Cylinders
Replaced Brakes
Replaced Calipers
Replaced Brake Lines

Sorry for the novel, just want to get it all in there.
 

Bigtman07

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Cummins 5.9
Welcome to RF!

Sounds like it may be the fuel filter or pump to me also. Could be a pressure regulator too in the line but that usually only affects on startup. First thing we have to ask though is about the check engine light. Does it come on? That's usually the best place to start.
 

Howells

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Kitchener Ontario
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1999
Engine
5.9L
It starts right back up or just cranks for a bit then starts. Could be intermittent crank sensor or wiring to it. Also the truck could be miss firing and stalling out under load. I would due a tune up on it and check the plenum gasket.
 
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becraftc

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Thanks BigTMan, that is what I'm leaning towards as well. The check engine light had came on once. I was driving it home after I picked it up from Rocky Mount, about a two hour drive. It came on about 45 minutes into the drive and went off by the next time I drove it. Haven't seen it since. I've driven about 400 miles since it went off.

Thanks Howells, if you try to start it immediately after it stalls it will just turn over and over and will not start. But if you wait a minute or so after it died it will start right up as if there were no issue to begin with. I am in the middle of doing the tune up, started with the sea foam and was about to get plugs and wires, etc. Figured I should probably figure out what this problem was before I started changing other stuff. Do you still think it could be the crank sensor being that it starts up with no problems after sitting for a few minutes? Or would that only be if it turned over multiple times without starting?

I was thinking that it was either water in the gas, or after seafoaming the intake, oil, and gas, that I might've freed something up in the tank that is to big for the filter. Does that sound like a plausible reason for this to happen?
 

Bigtman07

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The crank sensor could be the issue since it tells the coil to fire. I would check the plugs and see what they look like. If they are a little wet then it is getting fuel. and probably a spark issue. But if they are really dry then its fuel. and by wet I don't mean looks like it is covered in liquid. They usually have a darker color to them than normal on the tip.

Good looking plug.
130_0703_09_z+reading_spark_plugs+healthy_spark_plug.jpg


Fouled out
130_0703_14_z+reading_spark_plugs+rich_from_short_distance_driving.jpg


Let us know how the tune up goes. and if you can go see if there are any resident codes in the computer.
 

Bigtman07

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Copper champions are what the magnums like best from most people experience. I had platinums and about detonated mine. So I'm a firm believer in the coppers.
 

Okiespaniel

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I'm wondering if your coil/coil wire isn't taking a crap. Once the windings overheat they'll short until they cool down again.
 

talon6

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318 is internally balanced and the 360 is externally balanced.

sounds to me like a tps sensor.
 
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becraftc

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Thanks Okie and Talon, I will look into a coil as well. Is there a way to check it prior to replacing it? Talon, is there a way to look at the engine and tell? I don't know the difference between internally and externally balanced. I was looking at other posts and thinking of changing the tps sensor as well.
 

Bigtman07

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I was talking to one of my friends that was a chrysler tech and he said there is a sensor on the distributor that could be causing this also.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
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becraftc

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Haven't gotten a chance to look at it, been busy with holiday stuff with the wife and kids. Hope to get a chance to look at it within the next couple of days. Do you know what the name of the sensor or would I need to replace the entire distributor? Thanks
 
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becraftc

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Would replacing the cam sensor require replacing the entire distributor? Is there a way to check it? I started it up today, hadn't started it since the problem occured. I was about to drive it for about 20 minutes before it started it's problems again. It seemed like if I drove it below 30 mph it wouldn't shut off, but over 30 at different speeds ie. 45, 60, etc it would just shut off completely. All electrical was still on but no engine. I plan on taking it into the Auto Hobby Shop on base and using some of their specialty tools to look it over. Will post updates as I get them.
 
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becraftc

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Hey guys some potentially good info. Wiggled the TPS sensor and the engine begins to stall and make a sucking sound that I had forgot I had heard when it would die. I'm going to replace the sensor but am looking at advance and not sure which one to order. There is the BWD brand #EC1089 for $60 or the Wells Vehicle brand #TPS318 for $36. I am willing to pay the extra for the BWD, but want to know if it is worth the extra $25. Does anyone have bad/good experiences with either brand? Thanks for the help guys.
 
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becraftc

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Well.....replaced the TPS sensor. Drove about fifty miles and had no issues! I am hoping it continues, but seems to have fixed the problem. I took a video of the symptom and removal/installation. Will post on YouTube for anyone that may experience the same problem. Not a difficult operation, but might help someone out there. Thanks to all who have given ideas and possible solutions. I know tracking problems like this can be difficult and appreciate everyones quick responses. I don't plan on being a stranger to this forum from now on.
 
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