Stangshcky12
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2011
- Posts
- 9,047
- Reaction score
- 941
- Location
- Oshkosh, WI
- Ram Year
- 2007
- Engine
- 5.9 Cummins
2500 come with optional clear coated polished aluminum wheels, the clear coat makes them really easy to clean but can be easily chipped by road debris, crimp-on wheel weights, lug nuts, etc.. Exposing the bare aluminum allows the aluminum to oxidize and pit (steel wheel weights and lugnuts will especially promote oxidation) Oxidation will form under the clear coat once it starts and lifts the rest of the clear coat. The only way to remove it is to sand it out and repolish.
Sorry my pictures suck, I have shaky hands that were tingling from the sander
What you'll need:
Aircraft paint stripper(chemical resistant gloves, mask, brush and metal pan/can)
Assortment of sand paper (I use 120,240,320,500,800 and 1000 grit, power sanders will make it alot easier)
A bar of polishing compound and a polishing wheel
Liquid aluminum polish and microfiber towel (powerball is helpful)
Wax
Alot of time and patience
I started by cleaning the wheels. I used oven cleaner to clean 160K miles worth of gunk off the inside of the wheels. Do not use oven cleaner to clean aluminum unless it is coated or if you are planning on repolishing because it is very caustic and will leave a dull finish to bare aluminum
Not all aluminum is coated so this can be skipped in some cases, to tell if something is, apply a little bit of aluminum polish to an inconspicuous area, if a black residue appears as the polish is rubbed onto it then it is not clear coated
Pour the aircraft stripper into you metal pan, apply to the surface with a brush liberally. Allow the stripper to penetrate for atleast 15 minutes before removeing with a plastic scrapper. This wont remove all of the clear coat but a good majority of it
I start off using 500 grit on a palm sander to start sanding the wheels to cut through alot of the remaining clear coat and also makes it easier to see where there is still clear coat
Aluminum is a very soft metal so 500 grit will cut through most scratches, I only use 120/240/320 for removing oxidation like seen on the lip and around the lug nut holes
After progressing through your different grits and getting an even finish to the whole wheel start polishing with your bar polishing compound and buffing wheel. Going against the rotation of the buffing wheel will cut quicker but leave a duller finish but going with the direction of rotation will leave a better shine.
Finish polishing with your liquid polish and towel/powerball, make sure to remove all of your polishing compound
Wax the wheel to prevent further oxidation and easier cleaning
The top wheel has been sanded, the one to the right has had the clear coat removed and the bottom one has been repolished
Finished product, the top wheel has had the oxidation removed and has been repolished the bottom wheel is a stock wheel that wasnt touched
Sorry my pictures suck, I have shaky hands that were tingling from the sander
What you'll need:
Aircraft paint stripper(chemical resistant gloves, mask, brush and metal pan/can)
Assortment of sand paper (I use 120,240,320,500,800 and 1000 grit, power sanders will make it alot easier)
A bar of polishing compound and a polishing wheel
Liquid aluminum polish and microfiber towel (powerball is helpful)
Wax
Alot of time and patience
I started by cleaning the wheels. I used oven cleaner to clean 160K miles worth of gunk off the inside of the wheels. Do not use oven cleaner to clean aluminum unless it is coated or if you are planning on repolishing because it is very caustic and will leave a dull finish to bare aluminum
Not all aluminum is coated so this can be skipped in some cases, to tell if something is, apply a little bit of aluminum polish to an inconspicuous area, if a black residue appears as the polish is rubbed onto it then it is not clear coated
Pour the aircraft stripper into you metal pan, apply to the surface with a brush liberally. Allow the stripper to penetrate for atleast 15 minutes before removeing with a plastic scrapper. This wont remove all of the clear coat but a good majority of it
I start off using 500 grit on a palm sander to start sanding the wheels to cut through alot of the remaining clear coat and also makes it easier to see where there is still clear coat
Aluminum is a very soft metal so 500 grit will cut through most scratches, I only use 120/240/320 for removing oxidation like seen on the lip and around the lug nut holes
After progressing through your different grits and getting an even finish to the whole wheel start polishing with your bar polishing compound and buffing wheel. Going against the rotation of the buffing wheel will cut quicker but leave a duller finish but going with the direction of rotation will leave a better shine.
Finish polishing with your liquid polish and towel/powerball, make sure to remove all of your polishing compound
Wax the wheel to prevent further oxidation and easier cleaning
The top wheel has been sanded, the one to the right has had the clear coat removed and the bottom one has been repolished
Finished product, the top wheel has had the oxidation removed and has been repolished the bottom wheel is a stock wheel that wasnt touched
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