Detailing Semi pro Detailer here!
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Hey, if anyone has any questions about any aspect of detailing i have ...
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05-22-2010, 01:41 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Iowa
Name: Zach
Age: 27
Posts: 255
Ram Year: 2001
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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Semi pro Detailer here!
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Hey, if anyone has any questions about any aspect of detailing i have my own detailing business and can answer 95% of your questions, if i cant answer them i can sure get the right answer for ya in short order!
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__________________
Silencer ring MIA, FASS 150/95 GPH, Boost Elbow, Edge Comp, AutoMeter Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure gauges, LBDP Budget 5" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 6" Flo_Pro tip, Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 Air intake filter, 20% Tint, B&M Racing T handle shift knob
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05-22-2010, 01:46 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Administrator/Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arizona
Name: Bryan
Age: 35
Posts: 1,033
Ram Year: --
Engine: --
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I noticed that you were a detailer with all the detailing parts around your truck in the first couple of pics you posted.
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05-22-2010, 01:53 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Iowa
Name: Zach
Age: 27
Posts: 255
Ram Year: 2001
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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you know it man, im just starting my business like i said and im one of the ONLY if not THE only one here who does full paint correction.
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__________________
Silencer ring MIA, FASS 150/95 GPH, Boost Elbow, Edge Comp, AutoMeter Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure gauges, LBDP Budget 5" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 6" Flo_Pro tip, Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 Air intake filter, 20% Tint, B&M Racing T handle shift knob
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05-23-2010, 11:02 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Name: Jack
Posts: 59
Ram Year: 01 Chevy 3500HD
Engine: 12v Cummins
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What are the things you need to get if you want to start detailing your ride?
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05-25-2010, 11:08 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Iowa
Name: Zach
Age: 27
Posts: 255
Ram Year: 2001
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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well first off, what in your mind is considered detailing, to every person "detailing" could be a very wide range of ideas, some thing detailing is just a wash n wax and some like myself consider a detail a FULL paint correction and cleaning every square inch of visible vehicle.
so tell me what you wanna do and ill tell ya whatcha need
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__________________
Silencer ring MIA, FASS 150/95 GPH, Boost Elbow, Edge Comp, AutoMeter Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure gauges, LBDP Budget 5" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 6" Flo_Pro tip, Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 Air intake filter, 20% Tint, B&M Racing T handle shift knob
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05-25-2010, 03:41 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Name: Jack
Posts: 59
Ram Year: 01 Chevy 3500HD
Engine: 12v Cummins
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Well lets say eventually I want to be good at everything, What should I start doing first and what tools should I start with?
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05-26-2010, 01:09 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Iowa
Name: Zach
Age: 27
Posts: 255
Ram Year: 2001
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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ok well, you stil didnt me answer, what do you wanna start doing, i mean, i can write for 2 hrs and tell ya how to do it all, but thatd be pointless if you dont wanna know it all this second. so here let me lay this out in a way you can understand......
5 Step Paint Care Cycle
- Wash - How to CORRECTLY wash a vehicle
- Clean - How to CORRECTLY clean paint/vehicle (NOT the same as washing)
- Polish - How to CORRECTLY polish a vehicles paint
- Protect - How to CORRECTLY protect a vehicles paint
- Maintain - How to CORRECTLY maintain a vehicles finish AFTER previous 4 steps
ok there ya go, you decide on which 1 of the 5 you wanna learn about to begin with, and then as you want to expand i can help ya from there. Id personally start with the correct procedure for washing, as thats going to be the most frequent and possibly the most DAMAGING thing you can do to the paint if NOT done correctly.
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__________________
Silencer ring MIA, FASS 150/95 GPH, Boost Elbow, Edge Comp, AutoMeter Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure gauges, LBDP Budget 5" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 6" Flo_Pro tip, Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 Air intake filter, 20% Tint, B&M Racing T handle shift knob
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05-26-2010, 03:53 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Name: Jack
Posts: 59
Ram Year: 01 Chevy 3500HD
Engine: 12v Cummins
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Ok then, lets start with washing and cleaning the vehicle.
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05-27-2010, 11:54 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Supporting Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: North Central Iowa
Name: Zach
Age: 27
Posts: 255
Ram Year: 2001
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 24v
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ok well, this is all my personal methods, and they work, WELL! To start with washing a vehicle depending on how badly its covered in crap i choose to either pressure wash it off or if that's not available i use a hard stream on the hose and get it wet, let it set a min and spray again, USUALLY that works,
Once the vehicle is uncaked from whatever i start with wheels and tires, ALWAYS! Reason for that is harsh acids and cleaners are used there and if you get over spray on the paint itll get washed off in short order anyway. So starting with wheels/tires, i use a short handled STIFF bristle brush, along with Westleys Bleche-Wite, spray the tire liberally and let it soak for a short time, spray bristles on brush and then scrub entire tire, going over tread shoulder sidewall and up to wheel lip. I generally go around the tire 3-4x, and continue to clean other 3 tires, letting tire cleaner sit on previously cleaned tires. After all 4 tires are cleaned, rinse and rinse WELL. Westleys is a HARSH acid and you don't want to leave over spray more than a min or 2 on wheels or painted surfaces. After tires and surrounding areas and rinsed and clean the wheels and wheel wells. I use Meguiars Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner if im unsure of the condition of the rims, if they are in good condition is generally use Meguiars Detailer Line Wheel Brightener. Spray the wheel liberally and i generally use an old sponge/wash mitt to agitate the wheel and clean it including entire face of wheel, lug nut holes and as MUCH of the back of the wheel as i can, as you can see the clean side from the dirty on most vehicles especially with big open wheels. If i cant get the whole backside and still see dirty spots i go as far as taking wheel off and cleaning whole back side of wheel as well. I never let the wheel cleaner sit on the wheel longer than it takes to clan each one as the acid is harsh on those too, and wheels are less forgiving than tires due to clear coats, raw metals etc. SO i ALWAYS rinse each wheel before moving to the next. As for fender wells i use Meguiars Detailer line All Purpose Cleaner Plus, i spray the wheel well liberally and agitate with a long handled semi stiff brush. Clean all areas in fender well and let it sit as you do the other 4. Rinse all 4 fender wells after you've finished and respray the vehicles paint down as well.
After that i get 2 5 gallon buckets, yes 2 buckets and each one has a "Grit Guard" in it which can be had for approx. 7 dollars a piece from any detailing supply website online. i fill both buckets with approx 3-4 gal of water, and i add 3-4 oz of car wash solution, i use Meguiars Gold Class Car Shampoo and Conditioner or Meguiars Ultimate Wash and Wax. Both solutions recommend 1 oz of wash per gallon of water and i use a kitchen measuring glass to fill 3-4oz of solution. I then put the solution in the pre filled bucket. NEVER just "glug glug" soap into a bucket then BLAST water to make tons of suds. that's wasted product and you never get the right solution mix. After that, rinse vehicle down once more and begin washing using a quality mitt, be it REAL sheep's wool, microfiber or a bone sponge. Always work from top to bottom and half way through the panel turn mitt around as to always keep a clean surface on the paint. Only wash one panel at a time and rinse immediately after, unless your using the Ultimate Wash and Wax, then you let the soap sit on the paint as long as you can WITHOUT letting it dry as to let the dispersed wash work on the paint. After washing entire vehicle panel by panel top to bottom you can start drying the vehicle. DO NOT use old bath towels as they can and will damage the paint. Buy either a microfiber drying towel or a "waffle weave" towel. I like to dry all painted surfaces first and leave the windows for last. If the windows dry you can simply use a glass cleaner or a damp towel to wipe them clean again.
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__________________
Silencer ring MIA, FASS 150/95 GPH, Boost Elbow, Edge Comp, AutoMeter Boost Pyro and Fuel Pressure gauges, LBDP Budget 5" Turbo Back Exhaust w/ 6" Flo_Pro tip, Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 Air intake filter, 20% Tint, B&M Racing T handle shift knob
Last edited by CumminsCrazed; 05-27-2010 at 03:34 PM.
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05-27-2010, 05:41 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Administrator/Owner
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arizona
Name: Bryan
Age: 35
Posts: 1,033
Ram Year: --
Engine: --
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Register to remove these ads. It's free!
Wow! Nice book you wrote here. Like the details and the detailing. 
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