DPF delete settings

Getting ready to do a DPF Delete on a 2012 3500 6.7HO using a mini-maxx... My question is, which is the safest tune to run for this truck without having a Pyro? The truck regularly pulls trailers in the 15k lb range. I was planning on running on mild, but wondering if i would be better going with no power added. we're doing the delete for better mileage...

Stock
Your still going to notice a significant power increase, you could always turn it up and see how the truck likes it
If you NEED the truck to pull often I wouldn't want a hurt trans
This is all assuming the trucks auto

Our '09s clutch slipped even with the 60hp tune before it get a double disc

I think most experts agree that if towing, you should download H&S' custom tune without the ATT.

This project has been interesting to say the least...

Started off with a bad SD card right out of the box. the Mini maxx couldnt find certain files, and then I couldnt even format it to attempt to make it work. I happened to have a spare 2gb card laying around, so i formatted it and got it good to go. I even downloaded the mild without att and put it on the card too.

Installed the tuner today, and now in the menus I get white bars where text is that make it impossible to read the text on the screen, so now i'm going to have to call H&S tomorrow and see what my options are.

Right now I have it set on "stock" with a timing of 1. Dont know why it says that, my options are stock and tow, and i dont know what else. Didnt want to mess with it too much with a goofed up screen.

I may try the mild without att, but considering the trailer we pull is in the neighborhood of 15k to 17k pounds, I dont want to get too crazy with the tuning, especially since I dont have a pyrometer.

One interesting thing I noticed. Before I downloaded the tuning to the truck, I just had the mini maxx plugged in and was using it as gauges while i drove a path to get a "before delete" MPG baseline. I had both pyro 1 and pyro 2 showing. I started out with pyro 1 being hotter than 2, but after a few miles of highway, pyro 2 was running a good 400 degrees or more hotter than Pyro 1. Even sitting in the driveway idling after the drive, pyro 1 was around 480 degrees and pyro 2 was at like 1040. Once 2 came down to below 900, it dropped off quick.

stebs said:

Getting ready to do a DPF Delete on a 2012 3500 6.7HO using a mini-maxx... My question is, which is the safest tune to run for this truck without having a Pyro? The truck regularly pulls trailers in the 15k lb range. I was planning on running on mild, but wondering if i would be better going with no power added. we're doing the delete for better mileage...

Click to expand...

It really depends on your right foot. Your question is loaded in so many ways. I don't think that you need to worry about EGT's with a default tune, but more so EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure). Like Wandell said, run a non-att tune. I ran the ATT tunes for a short time, but found that it would ramp up boost pressure quick and spike the EBP, which is a contributing factor to a blown Head gasket.
There are two ways to view this.
A) Run a low HP setting, tow away until your heart is content
B) Tow responsiblily and run the higher tunes.

An efficient engine will produce the most power while using the least amount of fuel... With a diesel if you can make more HP/TQ while using less fuel....I think that it makes it more efficient.

With that, I have been running my Mini maxx on Hot Damn (175hp) Non-att and lately my MP-8 turned up to 100%..

stebs said:

Right now I have it set on "stock" with a timing of 1. Dont know why it says that, my options are stock and tow, and i dont know what else. Didnt want to mess with it too much with a goofed up screen.

I may try the mild without att, but considering the trailer we pull is in the neighborhood of 15k to 17k pounds, I dont want to get too crazy with the tuning, especially since I dont have a pyrometer.

One interesting thing I noticed. Before I downloaded the tuning to the truck, I just had the mini maxx plugged in and was using it as gauges while i drove a path to get a "before delete" MPG baseline. I had both pyro 1 and pyro 2 showing. I started out with pyro 1 being hotter than 2, but after a few miles of highway, pyro 2 was running a good 400 degrees or more hotter than Pyro 1. Even sitting in the driveway idling after the drive, pyro 1 was around 480 degrees and pyro 2 was at like 1040. Once 2 came down to below 900, it dropped off quick.

Click to expand...

Have you installed two pyro's? The truck doesn't come with them, so the readings are false.
Also the "stock tune" is not really stock (per conformation from H&S on another forum). If you plan to run the "stock" tune I would back the timing down a notch because for some reason the 2010+ don't have the ability to default to the "stock" timing, they run the "stock ish" tune with advanced timing from the "mild" tune. This has been confirmed by a well known tuner who brought this to light and H&S eventually confirmed it..

The truck is a 2012 3500 and had 3 pyro's from the factory. One before the Nox, one between the nox and the dpf, and one after the dpf. The mini maxx can read 1 and 2 through the OBDII port BEFORE the tunes are downloaded. Once the tune is downloaded to the ECM, they provide fake values.

I have the timing set on 1, which is the lowest, whereas 5 is most aggressive.

stebs said:

The truck is a 2012 3500 and had 3 pyro's from the factory. One before the Nox, one between the nox and the dpf, and one after the dpf. The mini maxx can read 1 and 2 through the OBDII port BEFORE the tunes are downloaded. Once the tune is downloaded to the ECM, they provide fake values.

I have the timing set on 1, which is the lowest, whereas 5 is most aggressive.

Click to expand...

I misunderstood, I thought you were running 1 step up from the default timing setting.
As far as the factory pyro's go I can't say much more than I wasn't aware that the 2012's had 3 pyro's as I have a 2007. I have never heard of anyone commenting on the stock pyros, but I have run across many posts of people asking where the best location to drill for a pyro is (pre turbo as the readings will be more accurate than directly post turbo, which most say runs a few hundred degrees cooler). What you describe sound more like oxegen sensors. Having a pyrometer that far from the engine would provide very little info because the exhaust has cooled down a lot.

the 2012's have 3 pyros, 2 o2 sensors, and a pressure differential sensor between the downpipe cat, and the muffler. There is a pyro between the downpipe cat and the nox filter, a pyro between the nox filter and the dpf, and a pyro between the dpf and the muffler. There is an o2 sensor between the downpipe cat and the nox filter, and an o2 sensor between the nox filter and the dpf if I remember correctly. The pressure differential sensor is set up to measure the pressure drop across the dpf. The instructions on the mini maxx said to disconnect all of these sensors.

And yes, it makes me wonder what the true EGT's of this truck ran when store bought stock if it was hitting 1100 halfway to the back of the truck