2015 Power Wagon Pricing

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Brakelate

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Looks like one helluva rugged, capable truck or a great price to me!

*If you wanted more of a tough, truck you could use and not have to treat like a show queen or worry about getting dirty.

Though you may miss out on a few of the extra "bells and whistles" type high tech features and interior surfaces that make it a little more luxurious - and thus expensive!

But, if you are into 'wheeling and want a truck that rides like no other 3/4 ton and can off road with damn near anything right out of the box, with a factory warranty, etc.

This looks like it!

Especially if you go in there and sort of "poo poo" the uniformed sales staff because it doesn't have that "Diesel" you wanted and you really don't like the color and were just looking for something else. Then, they may drop the $$$ even further.

Good Luck! :favorites13:
 

Brakelate

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Edit: One drive, and you will know... :naughty:




*Don't be alarmed playing with the "Locking Diff" knob on the test drive. It takes a while to actually lock up and for the lights to stop flashing just driving around in straight lines. Once some "S" curves or wheel spin (actually off road when you need it) they lock up pretty quick, and seem
to get quicker to activate with use.

Just feel how it rides in 4-Hi over some rough stuff with the swaybar disconnected. How it feels in 2wd on the hwy and it's taller stance, combined with the confidence of having that massive 12k lbs winch
stashed in the front bumper *make sure they provide the hook and
cable operated plug in "In & Out" switch and all of that, and where
they hid it before you take delivery.

You will pull into the lot and look at your old truck and just know...

or, maybe you won't.
 
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CuylerTech

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Edit: One drive, and you will know... :naughty:




*Don't be alarmed playing with the "Locking Diff" knob on the test drive. It takes a while to actually lock up and for the lights to stop flashing just driving around in straight lines. Once some "S" curves or wheel spin (actually off road when you need it) they lock up pretty quick, and seem
to get quicker to activate with use.

Just feel how it rides in 4-Hi over some rough stuff with the swaybar disconnected. How it feels in 2wd on the hwy and it's taller stance, combined with the confidence of having that massive 12k lbs winch
stashed in the front bumper *make sure they provide the hook and
cable operated plug in "In & Out" switch and all of that, and where
they hid it before you take delivery.

You will pull into the lot and look at your old truck and just know...

or, maybe you won't.

Where abouts is the remote to control the winch?
 

w6pea

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CuylerTech

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For that price I would almost be willing to Fly there from California aka Taxafornia to buy it.


You better not cause it's mine now haha.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Brakelate

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They should give you a bag, containing the Warn Winch "hand strap", gloves, and the 8' or so long cabled remote plug in hand held switch unit
to operate the Winch. Typically it is in the "dealer prep" bag, but can also sometimes be found hidden in the left rear floor "cooler" container under the floor mat, or under the flip up rear seats.

Initially, the bag will also contain a very large forged Hook with an eyelet for attaching to the front of the winch cable sticking out the front of the spool through the front bumper. Attach the Red Winch nylon hand hold to that for tugging out the line from the spooled cable for use. *Be very careful to use the nylon loop and good leather or work gloves when dealing with the factory steel wrapped cable. They have little burrs and splinter with use and will pierce your fingers in a very painful split second if you are handling the line, as in sliding it through your hands as you hand over it while reeling it in or out. The Strap is a MUST to use, especially when unfamiliar with the feed rate and incredible torque this device is capable of generating. Or if you are having a friend run the feed in/out switch from inside the cab. You DO NOT want your fingers sucked into the spool or in between the rollers... thus always use the hand strap those last few feet. Also, become familiar with how long the cable is... you always want to leave 4-5 loops minimum left on the "winch barrel". I have foolishly extended mine all the way out and pulled it off the reel, and it is a royal ***** to get back on, if you can. That cable is tough!!! Unroll it, to become familiar with it, inspect it, then re-roll it under a light to moderate load (pulling on something to maintain tension on the line and barrel) - unwind it, then with a suitable anchor point load on it (car / big ass rock or RV / truck in gear with the parking brake set - I'm telling you, this thing is strong and NO joke!) rewind the line evenly left to right across the width of the barrel for future storage. Then loop the end hook around one of the factory "D" rings, and snug it down just a little bit. Nothing crazy, just leave the line with a little tension on it. **Again, this is prime finger-pinch territory. -Use the Strap-! Then, you are all good and ready to go when or if you ever need it. Nothing worse than trying to sort all this out in the middle of a rain storm, knee deep in mud and sand, while holding up traffic, freaking out occupants in the truck or forgetting something. GO out and play with it!!! That is what it is there for. Then when the need arises, IT is ready, and YOU are confident in it's operation and are ready to go, making you look like the hero you are! Lol.

The PW has a very nice "always on" -real- mechanical helical limited slip in the rear end and will likely go places most won't even if just left in 2HI or 4Hi with the diff locks left "open" or off. Just remember , that unless you are just driving around on snowy hard pack streets or dirt trails, press and hold the "Traction Control" button down. Not just until the light on the dash comes on, allowing more wheel spin, but for about ten seconds, until you hear a chime, and the "Trac / DSC OFF" lights up on your center dash EVIC.

Otherwise, it will be fighting you constantly, resisting wheel spin that is necessary for getting through deep snow, mud and preventing any fun by "getting it loose" and driving it like a "real truck" without fighting all the hidden electronic nannies trying to keep the rear from stepping out and sliding around... which is often necessary to properly negotiate advanced off road trails.

If you are a "first time" off roader, operating on slick, solid ice on the highway, or allowing a friend or wife to drive it, leave it all on. You don't want this truck getting away from them and wrapping it around a pole if they do not know how to countersteer or power through obstacles.

If you get it, post up pics, your opinions, and when you "pop it's cherry" and take it out to see what it is capable of off road.

:favorites13:
 
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w6pea

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I wonder why they are not using the synthetic cable on the Warn *****, you almost can't buy a Warn ***** with Wire Rope Cable on them anymore.
 
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CuylerTech

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Little update, Went in with my 2013 Ram to see what they would throw at me for a trade in price and was floored when they offered me $12,500 for it. 2013 Quad Cab with 32K miles. I could sell that in 30 minutes on craigslist. Needless to say, gonna private sale it and go back for a full cash buy or go to my main dealer and see if they can beat the price.
 

JaGarcia89

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Couple things to keep in mind when looking at an online price. Most dealers include all factory incentive and rebates in that pricing. Most buyers do not qualify for all the money on the hood. At 38k, that is probably less than they paid. So even if they priced it at cost and with the incentives, they gotta make money somewhere and that's in the low trade.
 

dkmesa

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Little update, Went in with my 2013 Ram to see what they would throw at me for a trade in price and was floored when they offered me $12,500 for it. 2013 Quad Cab with 32K miles. I could sell that in 30 minutes on craigslist. Needless to say, gonna private sale it and go back for a full cash buy or go to my main dealer and see if they can beat the price.

hahaha that is the most ridiculous trade offer i have ever heard. :roflsquared:
 

WhiteSport

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wow i was offered nearly 29k for my 2012 sport crew 4x4 with 15k miles.
 

w6pea

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6.7L IL6 Cummins Turbo Diesel
Anyone order a 2016 Ram 2500 Power Wagon Laramie?
Anyone know what incentives are available.
 

AkMOPOWR

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2016 Power Wagon
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I ordered a 2015 Wagon back in April and because the factory production schedule my 2016 will be leaving the factory on the 22nd. I'm told the price is the same as I was quoted for the 2015 build, so we'll see.
 

w6pea

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I ordered a 2015 Wagon back in April and because the factory production schedule my 2016 will be leaving the factory on the 22nd. I'm told the price is the same as I was quoted for the 2015 build, so we'll see.
Thank You. I will probably call my dealer today or tomorrow.
 

AkMOPOWR

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As I mentioned in another thread, I received my 2016 yesterday. Pricing increased by $2,500 because of incentive dates, rebates expired, blah blah blah... needless to say I didn't accept this because I ordered a 2015 and was given pricing in writing for a 2015, so the dealer allowed more on the trade to offset the difference which was a plus. Bottom line is that the 2016 price may be around $2,500 more than a 2015.
 

Megaramasaur

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I had the same thing at dealers with my 2015 PW tradin.. I have amp steps and 5-35" Nitto TG MTS and fuel wheels, SLT Granite Crystal with 11K on it and most I could get was 35K trade in.. Kelly BB says it sold be 39.9K and I figured an extra K for steps and wheels and tires... sticker was 58K I paid 48k. So 13K depreciation in a yr... nope... if I could get 43 as it sits I'd let it go... defiantly sell private... dealers want to make 15-20K on trade in and new sale... not on me...
Ps... I'm only considering selling to purchase a large Toy hauler (PW can't tow it)
 
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