Adding weight is going to give you a noticeable hit in mileage for a minimal improvement in ride IMO. I'm with @mtnrider, air down and if that doesn't work I would downsize or deal with it.
The only way to soften the ride regarding the suspension itself would be to put weaker springs in, which will lower its ability to "haul one heck of a load". Make sure you have good shocks in to help eliminate that bouncing but that can only do so much. What tire size/pressure are you running?
Only person I know personally to have a lifter go was in a 5.3 chevy. If you like the truck get it and just deal with it should you be that unfortunate.
Shocks can make a huge difference if they're old.
What vehicle are you used to? A 2500 will never be as smooth as a 1500 or a car if that's what you're used to.
Putting the shock in to the lowest setting and without the spacer will put you at normal, non lifted ride height. So if you remove the spacer you would need to set it to 1" just to stay where you are now.
If your coolant temp sensor on top of the water pump isn't plugged in / working, that will throw the throttle light. Add in your P2181 and chronic coolant leak, I would guess there is an issue with the temp sensor & possibly entire pump. I'm not sure if you can replace just the sensor or if you...
Once again having to assume, if you have a 1500 you will need to get a diff drop kit, angle correcting control arms, etc but to my knowledge you don't actually have to CUT anything.
Assuming you are talking about cutting the fenders..... lifts don't require cutting, bigger tires do.
If not talking about fenders, you will need to elaborate.
Between a few questions that I’ve had and helping some other people with their questions, I figured I would do a write up on what I did on my front end this last weekend and kind of compile everything:
09 2500 (3rd gen) with a hemi, I had instances of death wobble a while ago but it had been...
There's a difference between preventative maintenance on parts that are known to have issues or doing regular maintenance on things before they are due, but there's no sense in throwing away time/money/good parts that very well may never go bad anyway. Just stay on top of thing in terms of...
If a shop willingly covers the cost, either A) they screwed up the installation or B) the part was faulty from the manufacturer and they will reimburse the shop for the parts & labor to fix it. In theory the shop could just be very generous, but unlikely.
Did the rear U-joint fail allowing it...
Given that 63% of your miles are towing with half of those being loaded fairly heavy I would definitely go diesel. Gassers are good for occasional heavy towing or and regular moderate towing, but if you are frequently pulling those loads the diesel will have a much better time.
You bring up...
Problems? Unlikely, but it would be loud af. I have a "high flow" aka fairly loud muffler with factory res still in place and it has a plenty rumble. Could be louder when I'm wanting to mess around and want to hear it, but I also like not getting pulled over.
Edit: I just saw your other post...
What most people here are missing in their own anecdotes is that they lost X mpgs when they put on a level and put on bigger tires. Big tires add weight, which is a double whammy because its rotational mass and not just dead weight, and it hurts your gear ratio.
Tires make a WAY bigger...
You would feel the brakes pulsing when you hit the brakes if it were a warped rotor. The rotor has nothing to do with your alignment.
As JW sort of eluded to, there's lots of things it could be. First step is jack it up and push the wheel around and see what moves. If you can't tell, then you...
If they are factory, they are likely due. Mine are absolutely shot, but I still don't really have any bounce just from pushing down on the bumper. The real issue is where the railroad crosses the highway and I hit that doing 60, and for about a second I'm just along for the ride as my tires have...
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