Do you feel the same thing if you rev the engine that high when in park? That will tell you if its the engine or transmission. Judging by your description it could be either one.
If is is the engine, you would first start with basic maintenance items (spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor) if they...
I agree with OCTech on the possibility of a vacuum leak. I'm not sure where each of these things is located on a 96, but make sure you check your PCV valve and lines, your EVAP solenoid and lines, EGR valve and lines, cruise control vacuum lines if equipped, your ventilation vacuum control...
Hmm... So you have the hard starting issues no matter if the engine is cold or at operating temperatures?
Oh... I see you have 2 threads started for this issue. I'll look at the other thread.
Actually sounds like it could be the idle air control then. That sensor/motor controls the idle of the the truck particularly when it's cold. Do you hear a loud hiss or sucking noise when the engine is about to die? If so, that is a tell tale sign that the IAC is stuck open. Those are...
Also, have you replaced your O2 sensors recently? If so, what brand did you use? These trucks are apparently sensitive to sensor brands. I'm running NTK/Denso sensors in mine. I was chasing the 11:01 component failure as well. Even after new sensors, I still get that failure. There have...
That LTFT looks good. From what I've read fuel trims (short term and long term) should be close to zero and not be higher than 10% each way at idle.
Have you though about routing your plug wires according to TSB 18-48-98? http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm
That helped...
I agree. I too would love if a company would make a new part for out crappy lower dash. I'm reluctant to do any dash work because of how fragile that plastic is.
I use recommended OEM stock Champion RC12LC4 copper plugs. They seem to work fine. A lot of guys recommend the Autolites mentioned by Fast69Mopar and experience better idle and throttle response from them. I haven't tested them personally.
I believe that Spicer ball joints are highly recommended. Moog used to be a good go to, but I keep hearing how their quality has gone down. I've personally installed Mevotech Supreme ball joints on my truck and haven't had any issues. But... I'm not lifted and don't run large oversized tires...
You can try cleaning the IAC. If you have the money though, I would just replace it. While you're in there replacing that, I would also take the throttle body off and give it a good cleaning. Make sure to pay attention to the small passages for the MAP and the passages for the IAC. Also...
The truck needs the crank sensor and PCM to communicate properly in order to run. Without one or the other functioning properly, you will have these issues where the engine just cuts off.
What brand of crank sensor did you replace the old one with? Were you positive the old part was bad...
It might be your leaf springs. There are plastic inserts between each leaf that are supposed to stop them from squeaking. If they are worn out or missing, the springs will start to squeak a lot. Bushings could also be the culprit as well as they can start squeaking when worn.
You may need to source a cluster from a parts yard. However, it sounds like a loose connection or broken wire may be your problem since when you reinstalled the cluster, it came back to life for a moment. I believe the truck will still run if it has a bad CTM.
4K is a little high. You should probably be looking at 2500-3500 on the high end for that truck. On the test drive lay into the throttle and watch for any RPM flaring or weird transmission shifting. Also, open the rear window in the cab and listen for any roaring or whining coming from the...
Interesting. 1st thing that comes to mind is condensation from the exhaust. All vehicles will emit small amounts of condensation out of the exhaust when warming up and the first few miles of driving. This condensation could be finding its way out of the EGR just by the mere fact that it is...
I have not experienced this personally. I would suspect that possibly old grease or lubricant on the pivot points of the pedal assembly might be stiffening up in the colder temps and preventing the pedal from returning fully. Take a look at the brake pedal assembly up under the dash and under...
I believe it will be located on a sticker located on the drive side door frame. The same sticker that contains the correct tire pressure and size for the truck and also the build month and year of the vehicle as well as the manufacturing location.
There is a link on this board to the second gen dodge ram factory service manual. There are a number of wiring diagrams in section 8 I believe. Look in the 2nd Gen DIY section. There is a sticky with the link to download the manual.
If the truck still runs with the NOBUS message in the odometer, then the PCM is most likely not the problem. I would start by checking the wiring and plugs for the cluster all the way back to the PCM and CTM.
If the truck doesn't die when you see NOBUS on the odometer, then it doesn't sound like the PCM is bad. I would start by checking the plugs and wiring to the cluster. Something is grounding the signal to the cluster somewhere. If you don't find anything, maybe hit a parts yard for a cluster...
PartsGeek carries remans from A1Cardone... They are expensive and some of them still have problems. I ordered one and sent it back due to a stalling issue with the NEW one.
Awesome thanks for that answer. Now I have options... Need to either rebuild the rear or do a swap. If a later model 9.25 rear works, that would save me a bunch of time and money!
How is the braking performance with that rear? Did you have to change anything with the master cylinder? Wondering if a similar swap would work for my truck...
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