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- Jan 16, 2012
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- 2015
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I've never seen a garage with to many outlets--including 220.
Jay
Jay
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Amen to that. No such thing as too many plugs, just plugs in wrong locationI've never seen a garage with to many outlets--including 220.
Jay
I was planning on using 2-2-2-4 aluminum, much easier on the budget. I'd like to go bigger than 70 and probably should, just don't want to have to rearrange the panel too much, but I guess now is the time to do it. I am going to have a 24k BTU minisplit that I don't remember off hand how much h amperage that requires, maybe 30 total. Would also like the expandability for a 30 amp for welding or air tools in the future.Yep, guilty as charged.
70 amp sub breaker should be plenty. Kinda depends on what ur planing on running in the garage though. 7 welders at once and ****...lol.
#4 copper wire is rated for 70 amp so you need to calc whatever your planned load will be
I was planning on using 2-2-2-4 aluminum, much easier on the budget. I'd like to go bigger than 70 and probably should, just don't want to have to rearrange the panel too much, but I guess now is the time to do it. I am going to have a 24k BTU minisplit that I don't remember off hand how much h amperage that requires, maybe 30 total. Would also like the expandability for a 30 amp for welding or air tools in the future.
Nothing too crazy. I have the minisplit, which I believe is 30 amp and I'll need atleast two separate 20 amp lines to run wood working tools at the same time and misc small items like stereo, charger, etc. Then the ability to add another 30 amp outlet that would not run while the woodworking tools are going. So I think I'd be pushing 60-70 amp. If I run 2-2-2-4, I can always up the breaker size. That's what I did in my last garage and ran 70 and was ok. This minisplit will draw a bit more since it's the next size up. Guess it wouldn't hurt do do a little more rearranging and pop a 90 in there while I'm there. I think I actually already have the 90 unless I left it in my old elecrical panel.Now is the time to oversize to account for future needs/wants. The issue is figuring out what you're future need/wants will be
Nothing too crazy. I have the minisplit, which I believe is 30 amp and I'll need atleast two separate 20 amp lines to run wood working tools at the same time and misc small items like stereo, charger, etc. Then the ability to add another 30 amp outlet that would not run while the woodworking tools are going. So I think I'd be pushing 60-70 amp. If I run 2-2-2-4, I can always up the breaker size. That's what I did in my last garage and ran 70 and was ok. This minisplit will draw a bit more since it's the next size up. Guess it wouldn't hurt do do a little more rearranging and pop a 90 in there while I'm there. I think I actually already have the 90 unless I left it in my old elecrical panel.
Glad you said that, I did forget about the fridge for a moment. That also reminds me that I need to measure to double check and make sure the workbench and cabinets will squeeze into the wall shared with the house and the door leading to the house. I'm going to need to park the truck in the single bay, otherwise, I'll only have a couple of in he's of clearance for my truck like the last garage, which was a pain.Sounds like you've got it figured it out! Dont forget a fridge circuit...lol
I wish I lived closer. I would bring a lawnchair over to your casa and drink lots of beer while I watch you run that wiring. I was a journeyman electrician in my youth. Personally, I would not run aluminum, but that is just me. I cannot wait to see your results! Excited for ya.
Problem with that is I can only watch for a bit then it would be " here, lemme show you how I would do that" Nothin like a drunk electrician wiring a garage after hours...lmaoI wanna just watch you watch---LOL
Jay
I'd much rather used copper as well, but at 5 times the price, I'm content with the aluminum and deox. Wish it was a shorter run, actually have 35 foot of copper 3-3-3-5 that I never ended up using years ago.I'm of the same mindset, no aluminum for me but your money so I get it. Make sure you use Nolux to protect the connections as much as possible. No matter where you live, aluminum WILL corrode over time!
Thats x2 in a chair with beer being an armchair electrician..lol
You should definitely come watch then lolProblem with that is I can only watch for a bit then it would be " here, lemme show you how I would do that" Nothin like a drunk electrician wiring a garage after hours...lmao
Sprinkler system will be going in shortly. The builder was supposed to put that in and sod as well. He drug his ass and somehow we ended up having to escrow for the sod and he underquoted for the sprinkler, plus still owes me a check for the credit. Our closing turned into a cluster and if it were just me buying the house, I would have told him to stuff it...Maybe he needs a sprinkler system too??????
Jay
Yeah, what's his name? LOLI got a lawnmower also--mows, edges and blows sidewalks and driveway off. Your to far north for same "model" I got----
Jay
I need to decide how I'm going to finish the garage door wall. Don't really feel like dismantiling the tracks and torsion springs to drywall the whole thing and have to mess with realigning
I would not drywall the garage door headers at all. The garage door hardware is better off mounted to solid wood than over drywall. It requires being tight and if you crank it down on drywall it will just crush it. The constant motion of the door will also loosen off easier on drywall. Personally I think drywall in a garage is overrated. I covered the inside of mine with plywood and painted it all white. It is way more durable than drywall, great for when it gets hit with my jack handle etc. Excuse the floor in this pic it was raining out.
If you have time and patience, and a router, you could do slatwall on the cheap with that plywood. Might save some coin there.Yup, definitelty planned on leaving a header block for the jackshaft and torsion spring mounting. Plywood isn't a bad idea at all. I actually plan on putting up slatwall everywhere and am only putting drywall up first to give some rigidity to the slatwall. I was just thinking something to finish off the wall for the garage doors and thought I'd stick with drywall since I'd have it. I could always finish the slatwall there and skip the drywall, but that would cost probably $300 or so in slatwall just for that wall and would be more aesthetic than functional, so that's probably not the way to go. Already looking @ $1,500 in slatwall as it is.