so the cam/lifter problem, is from my understanding, from extended idling and lack of proper lubrication to the failed cam lobe. what happens is, the cam lobe flattens out, slowly over a long time, until it doesnt open the valve enough anymore. its good practice to replace all the other lifters...
the amp has a test sheet showing 960 rms at 1ohm. it should be plenty of power... my last bass setup was only a 750rms at 2ohm and it hit hard. i also think box may be too small. the JL ive been messing with went in last night. i had to readjust the amp gain accordinly. it bumped pretty...
the 1" sch40 pvc was dead on with the size of the magnet. i added 2 layers of thin cardboard paper, then the poly and did 2 layers for ~1.8ohm svc. it wont let me upload the video too big
i built a 1.8ohm svc coil for it. polyimide tape and nte electrontics 24 gauge wire from a semi local electronics store. i have pics on my phone but its not letting me login... stay tuned... worked welllll thing shoots out the coil its asking to get epoxied in already
i agree JL is top grade in car audio. i jus would hate spending msrp (400?) on them, even though i know quality is there. im trying to figure out where that advertised 7" voice coil actually is. i took apart one sub, yes its inverted, but not as "unrebuildable" as people make it seem. all...
i set the gains according to the paper manual in the box. from memory it was about 46 ac volt output (300rms on the chart) gain dial is roughly a 1/8 turn past halfway up. the subs state 300 rms. i did try and push it a bit higher to 350 and 400 rms on the chart, but it sounds the same, so...
so did some testing..... more swapping actually
swapped my amp and my friends. my amp bumps his sub very well. his amp on my system, same output. so i know the amp isnt the issue
i ohmed the 4ohm kicker subs, 4.2ish ohms on each, wired down to 2.1 ohm at the amp
his sub is a 2ohm dvc wired...
i guess im defining loud as the initial punch of the note, as well as the vibration afterwards
seems my setup hits hardest at 30 volume, goes to 40...but no real increase in bass over 30
going to try a diff box tomm, and i have another 12 sub to hookup n test, maybe this subs just suck
hi all
i finally got around to installing some subwoofers under the rear seats
the system i purchased new:
kicker cxa800.1 mono amp
kicker comp c 12 subs, svc 4ohm (req 1.25-3.5)
qlogic 4door12 ram underseat box (2 chambers, 1.25cu ft ea, sealed)
i know this amp thumps... my friend has the...
final update here, maybe one more after this if i open up the trans..
about 2 months and 2400ish miles later, the trans goes back to same symptoms. the fluid is burnt again. i was able to stretch it out long enough to get another trans. sourced from fenix auto in rahway nj, 110k mile 545rfe...
just chiming back in here, 2 weeks later...
seems replacing the fluid and filter was a cureall for the trans. ive not had a rough shift or slip over the past week at all.
yesterday i took a 45 mile drive, came back, idled it for over an hour and trans temps didnt go over 145. (idling after...
There is no thermal bypass. Just the original pressure switch.
Is there a test for the switch?
That description you posted points to valve body ball #2
Just throwing back an update here. Added another 350 miles or so.
There is no more slipping in any gear. There is an occasional hard upshift/downshift. Also sometimes on uphill, it seems trans is in too high of a gear. Even flooring the pedal wont make it downshift. If i approach the hill...
i havent purchased anything yet. just part store fluid and filters to see if it helped at all. and it is helping.. im still on the fence to get a trans and rebuild then swap over. i want to, it just seems only a 09-10 ram 2500 4x4 trans is compatible. would be much cheaper if i can use say a...
OK so as it sits right now..
i replaced filters and fluid with no name brand atf+4. the old fluid was burnt.
immediately after replacing, i didnt notice any change.
after further researching, i purchased alfaobd, and i did the transmission pcm reset.
immediately after reset, just slowly...
So i suctioned out the fluid dropped the pab still made a mess.
New fluid and filters in. The old fluid was burnt but not much stuff in the pan. Magnet had some fine dust debris assuming clutch plates wear material.
So... no more slipping in 4th. The rough shift seemed to disappear for a...
even if i purchase an upgraded valvebody and there is an issue with the clutches, i can swap the valve body to the replacement trans?
im also seeing used trans for cheappp....200 bucks even. at that point, i would consider doing a full rebuild on a spare trans, then swapping out. itll keep my...
good info.. i havent even had a chance to look at the fluid this morning damn work from home...
im very interested in any upgrades i can do... this truck is my daily + summertime boat mover + 4-5 time a year tow vehicle
checking up on it now... lets see where i stand in 30 min LOL
im gonna get to it in a bit, i really appreciate your help guys..
just one question. i notice replacement valve body come in a lot of varieties. i saw some posts saying certain ones will cause issues or throw CEL. where should i be shopping for one?
when i checked yesterday, it looked normal reddish color ill check tommorrow in the daylight.
interesting you think there is a blockage. that is what first came to mind, when i saw temps creeping yesterday. would flushing the trans help or hurt in this case?
the trans cooler is not part of...
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