Jah18...found it
Performance Accessories, Dodge Ram 1500 Gas 2WD and 4WD (Including Air-Ride) 3" Body Lift Kit, fits 2009 to 2017, PA60203, Made in America https://a.co/d/6XuJcav
Whenever you open the closed system to replace a component, you let some nitrogen out (even if you valve off the affected line)
Unless you vacuum the system and replace with pure nitrogen, you will always have some moisture in the system.
1. Spray PB blaster on your valve cover bolts. Use enough so it runs down through the valve cover and hopefully gets in the threads
2. Engines not under load (i.e. in neutral) will behave differently vs with a load. For example, a few weeks ago, I got a random misfire code and the truck would...
pull the valve cover from the passenger side. locate the #2 intake and exhaust pushrods and rocker arms and check for excessive play vs the other 3 cylinders on that side.
If you have excessive play...then either the lifter is shot or the lobe is flat...
I always try to save $
My suggestion is;
1. Pull the motor
2. Tear it down in your garage / shop (where it will be easy and not painful)
3. Assess the damage
Who knows you may get lucky
You have to pull the motor either way
Problem fixed
Cause - broken valve spring on #5 intake
Solution - spent $600 on parts, pulled the heads and did a complete valve job this weekend.
Runs like a champ now.
Local shop wanted $2100 to replace the springs on the driver side only
I've test several cylinders with 2 different compression testers, both of which will not hold a pressure reading (they drop to zero when the truck stops)
Testing compression now
Might I add that the truck gave no indication of a problem. It started fine, drive 20 ft, then started violently shaking and died. It would restart sometimes, but could not stay alive
2014 1500, 5.7L, with 180k miles. New lifters 20k miles ago.
Symptom
1. Only throwing 1 code, P0300
2. Barely starts (sputters, hesitates etc..)
3. After start, will continue sputtering, hesitating, etc.. unless I throttle up to 3k or higher RPMS (in neutral) where she runs fairly smoothly...
Just because it has a tick doesn't mean the engine is toast.
My 5.7 developed a tick around 150k. It now has 175k, still a slight tick but runs fine with no codes
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