I have been driving it all week, I have done my three 10mph WOT rolls to seat the rings, and so far so good. This thing destroys ear drums at 3500 RPM. Hard trying to keep it under 80 it's got a TON of torque it didn't have before. On the highway at cruise in OD my HUD says I am getting around...
And this is the first cold startup of the truck with a single mile on the new motor. This happened on the 15th of November.
https://youtu.be/Dc7TqlrvBY0
Here is some post paint pics from this week. Even managed to spray a new A/C compressor to match. Have been thinking about tearing the alternator down and spraying the case on that too... but too much work, and I want to drop the motor in this weekend... it's been 15 months, I need my baby back.
LOL! yeah I don't know if I win... my old crankshaft and 7 rods are still good. Might even be able to sell my old crankshaft for a couple dollars someday, but I do plan on making shelf brackets out of the 4 remaining good pistons.
Nope, I didn't even bother. I knew better. I ordered this block from fleabay. I bought it as a running engine... let me tell you for $800 I got hosed. the holes were full of water, and the cylinder were rusted and pitted. The block had to be punched and honed to make it work. REALLY...
Sorry for the lack of updates, doing an LS3 swap in a 68 olds, and rebuilding a 6.4 hemi for a challenger all at the same time as I am putting this motor together for my truck.
Head was trashed pretty badly, but modern machine shop got it in working order. We determined the actual failure mode...
oh yeah, if it's your only ride, it's 100% buy once cry once lol. I would suggest trying to find an OEM dodge unit new old stock if you can hunt one down, and as a second option someone reputable like PATC.
There is a tube channel called "performance transmission" they are based in texas, but...
I had a 97 that fell on it's face under 2200 RPM and would just come to life after that and run hard all the way to 6k.
I replaced everything, when an old man popped my distributor cap and moved the crank back and forth to measure the lash in the chain. turned out my chain had given up the ghost...
Pro King appears to be ATC, which has been in the game for some time making run of the mill oem style replacement parts. (not PATC)
Might not be a bad option to drop one in while you send yours out to be rebuilt by a reputable company.
No need for a billet triple threat TC in a 46RE that isn't...
Things were going well with assembly until someone decided to fall from a high place..... FML. weight matched piston sets are only sold in a set of 8.... 3-5 business days....
key on engine off your lift pump should be supplying fuel pressure without the need to bump the key. upgrade lift pump system, hope vp44 isn't dead.
The VP44 if it starves of fuel, which lubricates it, it will clearance itself and do almost exactly what you have described.
The transmission stalls? or the motor stalls?
the low forward/reverse clutch pack is the same clutch pack, the only difference is the band that holds the drum...but your torque converter is what prevents your engine from stalling no matter what gear you might be in.
Odd that this only happens...
You said you have a tune? Do you have any other aftermarket parts?
What do your fuel trims look like?
Have you tried resetting the adaptives table to see if it clears up?
Have you logged your o2 sensor data?
If your timing chain is getting ready to let go, your cam timing could be retarded...
Could also be a lean pop. maybe the bed got set down on the fuel lines? or the wiring for the fuel pump?
You need Fuel, Air, Compression, and spark to run an engine.
You have air, as long as you have compression, as stated above mechanical failures are RARELY intermittent, so mechanical timing...
Not a sticky valve, if the motor sat for 4 years it's likely the valve stem seals have gone bad and oil is getting down through the valves. Could also have some pitting in the cylinder walls which is letting oil past the rings.
100% post a video, I'm of the old school that says drive her...
At a minimum these should help you figure out what wire does what and get the truck wiring back working again. As far as alarms and accessory lights, you'll be on your own.
I usually tear that aftermarket stuff out and redo it proper once I get the factory stuff patched up and working 100%.
Let...
Are your pods wired to the fog light wiring and your high beams are on? also dash lights, all going out at once... sounds like a blown fuse.
Likely feeding something back. Best just to get a wiring diagram and go one wire at a time until you figure out what you goofed up ;)
There is not that...
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