Front passenger side rattle

[larrymax]

Truck

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Heard this, this morning while driving. It's not constant. Seems like it's coming from the front passenger side wheel. Turning the wheel, going over bumps, doesn't make it come or go. It's does change with the rotation/speed of the tire. Bearing?

 

[Wild one]

Truck

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Heard this, this morning while driving. It's not constant. Seems like it's coming from the front passenger side wheel. Turning the wheel, going over bumps, doesn't make it come or go. It's does change with the rotation/speed of the tire. Bearing?

If it's a bad wheel bearing/hub,you'll want to park it ASAP until you get it fixed,the fun goes out of a drive when the front tire exits the truck at 65 mph.

 

[larrymax]

Well I figure if I'm going to replace the hubs, I might as well replace the u joints, upper/lower ball joints, rotors and pads. I guess it's time.

I've done it before on a Ford "Exploder". Wasn't too bad...

 

[larrymax]

Any recommendations on the hub assembly and u joints? No towing or major hauling. No offroading. Mostly a weekend driver. I've had it a year and only put 2k on it. I'm looking on Amazon and the hub assemblies really don't go over $250 for both. What scares me is a google search shows $300-$600 per hub. If I get 50k out of them, I'm fine with that, it would take me quite a while to get there.

 

[aszumilo]

Lot of people recommend either SKP or Timken for the hubs and Spicer for the u-joints.

 

[Wild one]

Any recommendations on the hub assembly and u joints? No towing or major hauling. No offroading. Mostly a weekend driver. I've had it a year and only put 2k on it. I'm looking on Amazon and the hub assemblies really don't go over $250 for both. What scares me is a google search shows $300-$600 per hub. If I get 50k out of them, I'm fine with that, it would take me quite a while to get there.

Don't buy off Amazon or Ebay,go to somewhere reputable like Rock Auto or even you're local brick and mortar auto parts outlet.

 

[GTyankee]

What i would do ...

At your local 7 / 11 or a Laundry Mat, etc.
You likely have those FREE weekly flyer.
They have Coupons in them, Tires, House Repairs, Brakes & Alignment shops.

They may have FREE Brake Inspections or Alignments.

They Inspect & tell you what they found, then you either use their Service, or Thank Them & tell them that you have to think about it.
Then fix it yourself

 

[larrymax]

What i would do ...

At your local 7 / 11 or a Laundry Mat, etc.
You likely have those FREE weekly flyer.
They have Coupons in them, Tires, House Repairs, Brakes & Alignment shops.

They may have FREE Brake Inspections or Alignments.

They Inspect & tell you what they found, then you either use their Service, or Thank Them & tell them that you have to think about it.
Then fix it yourself

If I didn't use them for the repair, I would still offer to pay them for their time and help. Just the way I am.

What I meant by the prices scaring me is, $250 for 2 hubs on Amazon and finding $500 for just 1 on many google searches means to me, Amazon is selling junk and I should be worried about buying those on there. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking that?

It needs to be done regardless if that really is the problem. I don't need hubs that last 100k or even 50k. Even getting hubs that lasted to 25k would take me many years to get to as much as I drive it.

At this point I just want to drive it to the store without the rattle. It's ruining the beautiful sound of my straight piped exhaust

 

[Marshall]

Did you jack it up and turn, and shake the wheels, That the first thing .
Amazon, cheap batteries for my alarm systems, and computer pens for the wife, and such.
Wheel bearings, not a chance in hell.
there is one thing , usally the brake system hold the wheel on when the bearing falls apart

 

[CanuckRam1313]

If you're doing brakes, look at the PowerStop Z36 package as it's full front and rear pads & rotors, plus the caliper clips and slider pin boots, too. Follow their recommended bedding/seasoning process afterward as this will really get the brakes set up nicely.

Perhaps also look at doing a thorough brake fluid flush & fill with a quality DOT4 fluid as well.

As for the other bits, you'll definitely want some quality parts; do it once, cry once, and then know you're good and safe and will have many more years of straight piped exhaust to enjoy

 

[Atcer2018]

If I didn't use them for the repair, I would still offer to pay them for their time and help. Just the way I am.

What I meant by the prices scaring me is, $250 for 2 hubs on Amazon and finding $500 for just 1 on many google searches means to me, Amazon is selling junk and I should be worried about buying those on there. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking that?

It needs to be done regardless if that really is the problem. I don't need hubs that last 100k or even 50k. Even getting hubs that lasted to 25k would take me many years to get to as much as I drive it.

At this point I just want to drive it to the store without the rattle. It's ruining the beautiful sound of my straight piped exhaust

Agreed, I would be very skeptical of Amazon hub parts. I’d stay with a reputable local retailer or Rock Auto simply for warranty purposes. That said if you are replacing rotors then I’d highly recommend Amazon. Don’t purchase the advertised “new” products, look slightly further down the listing and find the section that advertises “new and used”. Frequently you’ll find open box returns at ridiculously low prices. They call them used but they are just new open box returns that Amazon wants to unload. I got four Wagner E-coated rotors for less than $100 delivered and they all arrived in the factory boxes but taped shut. There are some good deals but most likely not on wheel hubs.

 

[JohnnyOOO]

I just had a similar noise bothering me for 2 months and I could never find the problem. Your noise is a tad bit louder.

Had my mechanic my mechanic due a mutli-point inspection before I go on a 3K mile trip. He said the noise came from AC system. Refrigerant was a little low and needed a recharge. He said there was a little valve on the AC system that would make this noise to let you know to recharge. It was such a small amount of refrigerant he did not even charge me.

OK, flame away but it is a legit other possibility.

 

[larrymax]

I just had a similar noise bothering me for 2 months and I could never find the problem. Your noise is a tad bit louder.

Had my mechanic my mechanic due a mutli-point inspection before I go on a 3K mile trip. He said the noise came from AC system. Refrigerant was a little low and needed a recharge. He said there was a little valve on the AC system that would make this noise to let you know to recharge. It was such a small amount of refrigerant he did not even charge me.

OK, flame away but it is a legit other possibility.

Thank you for the tip. I'll gladly take any and all advice. The only thing about mine is it speeds up with the rotation of the tire. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it isn't. That's why I'm thinking bearing or axle u joint. Even if it isn't that, it's time to do all of it anyway. Thanks again. Greatly appreciate your time in responding to my post.

 

[brad byron]

"rattle" sounds like a shock.......loose..??

 

[larrymax]

"rattle" sounds like a shock.......loose..??

Guess I'll find out after I rebuild the front end. Then I'll post another thread on what shocks I need lol. Oh the wife isn't going to be happy... :}

 

[larrymax]

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Finally got around to dealing with this last weekend. It was the axle ujoint making the noise. All fixed and I've never in my life dealt with such a difficult part to get apart. Broke my brand new vice getting it apart and beat on it for hours. My press wouldn't budge it. I went ahead and changed the ball joints (another nightmare), hub, rotors, and pads too. Worst part was when I was finally getting the caliper back on for some reason (and I was careful) the top bolt wouldn't thread. It came off just fine and I even swapped it with the bottom bolt no luck. It was 2am and my truck just barely doesn't fit in my garage and it was time to go to bed so I had to crank the heck out of it and make it worse to get the truck backed up and door closed. Already have the new caliper and bolts in hand but man was I mad. I'll put the new caliper on Monday and finally have a driveable truck. Next week will be the everything on the driver side. Should go a lot better now that I know what I'm in for. I've felt like I was hit by a bus all week after all of that

 

[larrymax]

Question about all of this as I did get my truck fully in the garage and was able to close the door so I took my time finishing it up. When I was trying to get the axle back in place, I had to take that panel off with the 4 bolts to line it back up with my fingers and a small amount of what I think was differential fluid poured out (I'm new to this). It smelled absolutely horrible and looked light brown. The smell lingered in my garage for days. Truck has 100k on it and was used in the desert (Yakima, Wa) it's entire life until I bought it.

I'm guessing it's time to change that fluid too???

Other than that everything is back in place but I bought that power bleeder everyone uses (for the Ram $75) for the brake fluid and bled the heck out of it. I don't think I got a good seal at the reservoir as I had a very weak stream. I can pump it to 15psi but it slowly backs off to about 12 and stops. I did what I could and every line is clear fluid no bubbles. Started at the passenger rear and worked my way to the front driver side several times. Fired it up today and the pedal almost goes to the floor with little resistance. It stops, but not what I think it should. I was very careful and drove it around my street. Like I said I can stop it just fine nothing scary but I don't think I could come to a quick stop at speed. I'm going to go the old fashioned route and do it without the power bleeder. It has new calipers, rotors and pads both sides. No leaks on any of the lines. I've checked a million times.

 

[larrymax]

Well back where I started. (Brakes are good now. Bled them the old fashioned way. I'll never use a power bleeder again) I've only driven the truck around the neighborhood since I did all of the work until today. Took it in town and could kind of hear a high pitched sound from the front end. It changes with speed so it must be something I did wrong (Axle u-joint, hub, or caliper, pads). Definitely not the same sound I had before which was the axle u-joint. Maybe I didn't press it properly? It sounds like a light metal on metal sound. It drives fine. I don't feel any resistance in the movement/inertia of the truck. Guess I'm tearing the front end apart again...