How to lower rear end

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Redtruck-VA

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You have been a big help. I think this may be a job for professional, even if I go with drop shackles its not the same as a 4 inch drop like yours. In college so money is tight, and I thought lowering something wouldn't take much at all.

Mines a 6" drop and has taken a lot of work to get it like I wanted, focus on school and wait to play with your truck is my advice.
 
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What I may go with, do some small tinkering for now. Thanks man :)
 

TheSatinPumpkin

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leveling the rear only still looks good and really helps when rolling in and out of the bed. For 3 years i ran 2" S1S drop shackles w/ OL springs removed just fine. Provide a nice stance without having to do a full lowering kit.
 
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Redtruck-VA

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Agreed, I think we all started with the drop shackles.
 
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How simple is a Drop shackle to install? Bolt off, bolt back on a different height? And which leaf spring is the overload one? Guessing the smallest?
 

Redtruck-VA

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How simple is a Drop shackle to install? Bolt off, bolt back on a different height? And which leaf spring is the overload one? Guessing the smallest?

Shackles are easy. Put a floor jack under the hitch and lift the body until you think the weight is off the spring. Unbolt the shackle wiggle the spring until the shackle bolts slide out. Adjust the height of the vehicle for the new shackle and bolt it up. The o/l is the fourth lower spring under the spring pack. It's missing in the photo I posted..
 

RamRod37

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If you choose the overload spring removal take spring out and remount it back to top of pack this will keep bolts from being to short and In future If you deside to put them back on they are right with truck at all times
 

redsled

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I never started with drop shakles. I went straight for the hard stuff. 4/6 with c notch. I love it and I still haul loads. The only thing I worry about is steep driveways.
 

Redtruck-VA

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I never started with drop shakles. I went straight for the hard stuff. 4/6 with c notch. I love it and I still haul loads. The only thing I worry about is steep driveways.

The rule book clearly states you have to start with shackles and then there is a waiting period before going the traditional 2/4.5 and after much deliberation and more then a few beers you can move onto a notch and deeper drop. :naughty:

If you choose the overload spring removal take spring out and remount it back to top of pack this will keep bolts from being to short and In future If you deside to put them back on they are right with truck at all times

I prefer removing them completely, no need to carry around unnecessary weight. If you think you might need them in the future you can put them in the pile of other parts you've pulled off. But with that said, you might consider if you do a flip to modify them and make snubber arms out of them similar to what the SRT-10 trucks use. :favorites13:
 

Redtruck-VA

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Whats a snubber arm

It's old school, slap bar, snubber bar or snubber arm.
I couldn't find a really good picture, but you can take the O/L spring and cut the rear off of it and then drill a hole in the front and install an adjustable bumper. This picture has a bar added to the top, but you can get the idea what I'm talking about.
7aTB5d.jpg
 

RamRod37

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The rule book clearly states you have to start with shackles and then there is a waiting period before going the traditional 2/4.5 and after much deliberation and more then a few beers you can move onto a notch and deeper drop. :naughty:



I prefer removing them completely, no need to carry around unnecessary weight. If you think you might need them in the future you can put them in the pile of other parts you've pulled off. But with that said, you might consider if you do a flip to modify them and make snubber arms out of them similar to what the SRT-10 trucks use. :favorites13:
That's My Point Though my piles tend to disappear when you think you know where you put something you go to find it and its gone or iv forgotten where I put the item if its still on truck I know where they are and if next owner desided he wants them back on then they are there for him to put back
 
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usaf2006

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It's old school, slap bar, snubber bar or snubber arm.
I couldn't find a really good picture, but you can take the O/L spring and cut the rear off of it and then drill a hole in the front and install an adjustable bumper. This picture has a bar added to the top, but you can get the idea what I'm talking about.
7aTB5d.jpg

So this just helps eliminate the hop? Could you explain what causes the hop?
 

TylerB

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Under hard acceleration, the torque will wrap the axle and deform the leaf springs, think s-shape almost, and they are trying to spring back to shape.
 

Redtruck-VA

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Under hard acceleration, the torque will wrap the axle and deform the leaf springs, think s-shape almost, and they are trying to spring back to shape.

Good explanation. And when the spring is fully loaded and the tire breaks traction, this causes the cycle to repeat again making the axle to hop. This is really hard on the drive train especially the u joint angle. snubbers, caltracs and ladders all help keep the springs from deforming helping to prevent axle hop.
 
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