Looking at our 1st TT

[TomB 1269]

Ok so we're looking into our first TT and we think we've narrowed it down to three. Looking for some feedback and suggestions. Before I list those here are some deets on the truck.

Tx in advance-

I did not read thru the whole thread but would like to throw my 2 cents in. 1st your payload is your limited factor. 2nd the dry tongue weights are helpful but only with respect to dry trailer weight, and that is to calculate the percentage of weight transferred to the ball by the trailer, i.e. Trailer with 500lb dry tongue and 4500lb dry trailer is 11% tongue weight. The % tongue weight then helps you understand what you will most likely be looking at for actual tongue weights when you multiple the % tongue weight by the GVWR for the trailer, i.e. 11% of 4865 = 535lbs of tongue weight, where 11% of 7200gvwr is 792lbs.

Now deduct those from your payload and you'd have 506lb remaining available on the one with 7200gvwr and 763lbs remaining on the one with a 4865gvwr.

Then subtract yours, the wife's, your sons weight, plus an add-ons to the truck (steps, tonnue cover, etc.) along with anything you will be carrying in the bed. Just a basic assumption, but with the 3 of you in the truck and truck connected to the 7200gvwr trailer you would have less then 100lbs of available payload left. With the 4865gvwr trailer you would most likely have 350 or less of available payload left, and still need to deduct 50 -75 lbs for steps and bed cover.

I always want the dry tongue weight and dry trailer weight along with the GVWR for any trailer I am interested in hauling as it allows me to get an estimate on what I will realy be looking at for weights.

Couple of notes:
1. Most trailers have about 1000lbs of payload (difference between dry and Gvwr)
2. Most people will utilize 80 to 90% of the trailer payload by the 2nd year with "stuff" in the trailer (food, clothes, toys, etc. etc.)
3. Most travel trailer (i.e. non-toy haulers) have a tongue weight percentage of at least 11% and less than 13.5%.
4. Toy haulers (bumper pull) have 15 to over 20% dry and are designed to be loaded in order to actually decrease the percentage of tongue weight. I.e. a properly loaded toy hauler can have a "WET" or loaded tongue weight at or just above the dry tongue weight.
5. 5Th wheels normally have a pin weight of about 25%

The last thing is when you setup brake controller and hitch understand their operations. Hitch should always be set at a height in which the trailer rides slightly nose down at the ball. Proper brake controller setting you should be able to lock up the trailer tires when using the over-ride thumb switch during setup.
Always check brake controller is properly set before each trip or re-connection of trailer to truck.

 

[Pttrader]

Having towed a few travel trailers I have found that the TT towed better with 15% of TT weight on the hitch. I learned this after going down some 6 and 7% grades (White Knuckled) that no matter how I adjusted the WDH it was the extra weight, going from 10 to 11% of TT weight to 15% that stopped sway and even allowed for less than optimum WDH setup. Even with Semi Trucks passing me down steep grades there was no sway! I made a several visits to the truck scales and had a pin scale to weigh my setup.
As for the mention of the Ford F150 with the 3.5 Ego Boost Motor that weighs just over 4000#s and tows 13,200#s and has a payload of 3200 when equipped with the Max tow package. I've read they can do the quarter mile in 13.7 seconds (Maybe a typo?) I saw one in the parking lot at work this week and I noticed how they have a grille is shaped similar to the Ram...
Probably be keeping my Ram 2500 since I feel safer with 7200#s of truck when towing. Always better to have a heavy truck when towing on windy days.

 

[dhay13]

My son's TT weighed about 8100lbs in this picture and had about 1100lbs of tongue weight (about 13%). He has towed it about 7000-8000 miles and I was with him on a 1400 mile trip to Texas and drove part of the way. Towed like a dream.
He has the Husky TS Centerline WDH.

 

[HDGoose]

You been given the formulas. You already know the truck payload. Maybe look up GAWR (gross axle ratings).

You'll desire a 2500 for travel with a camping trailer.

On most trucks (1500/25003500) you will run out of payload long before hitting max trailer weight.

One option is to research a goose neck conversion such as this - https://www.bpconversions.com/

 

[2003F350]

The one thing in using online data, it is not specific to the individual's actual vehicle, which could have factory options that subtract from the actual payload capacity. Best to use the sticker in the door and then subtract the weight of aftermarket add-ons like steps, bed covers, etc. This give the exact value for each truck and is more accurate than the guides online.

This is absolutely true. However, it is a good baseline to get you approximately close on your first set-up.

 

[20IndyRam]

If tongue weight and payload are the major concern, you could consider a TrailerToad (or similar). I have a neighbor that uses one on his Class A to pull his 40' race trailer. These units support the weight of the towed vehicle and unload the truck. It eliminated the race trailer pounding on the rear of the Class A frame (stress cracking the in the hitch). The Toad absorbs the pounding.

I've seen them used for $1k - $1500 and was considering using one with a Class C Merc Sprinter. Decided that the Sprinter chassis was pretty much all in with the RV load and didn't do it.

Don't have experience using one behind a pickup, but it should work. Gives the tongue weight back to the truck so you can use it for cargo. You can also increase the tongue weight on the TrailerToad to improve the stability of your trailer. Will not help with sail area or GCVW. It's not cheap, but less expensive than a upgrading to a 2500.

 

[tron67j]

If tongue weight and payload are the major concern, you could consider a TrailerToad (or similar). I have a neighbor that uses one on his Class A to pull his 40' race trailer. These units support the weight of the towed vehicle and unload the truck. It eliminated the race trailer pounding on the rear of the Class A frame (stress cracking the in the hitch). The Toad absorbs the pounding.

I've seen them used for $1k - $1500 and was considering using one with a Class C Merc Sprinter. Decided that the Sprinter chassis was pretty much all in with the RV load and didn't do it.

Don't have experience using one behind a pickup, but it should work. Gives the tongue weight back to the truck so you can use it for cargo. You can also increase the tongue weight on the TrailerToad to improve the stability of your trailer. Will not help with sail area or GCVW. It's not cheap, but less expensive than a upgrading to a 2500.

This type of solution has possibility if one were to have the best geared 1500 where towing capacity is far greater than the average 1500. But unless someone is running 3 92 8 speed with few upgrades on truck, I am not sure the $4k investment is worth it but there is obviously a market for it. Think the best thing to do is get the right tool for the job and put the money towards a 2500 or 3500.

 

[rellekt]

I agree with others not to rely on stickers for weight.

First I would say I see a new truck for you in the near future. We started with a tent and 6 trailers later we have a fifth wheel. I have a 2019 Ram dually and can pretty much pull what I want. Many would tell you get the trailer your wife wants then get a truck that will safely pull it. You will see folks say I pulled this and that and never had an issue even though they were over or dangerously close to max limits. The next argument will be the truck manufacturer numbers are lower than what the truck can pull. That is probably true. But what is a fact: what if you get into an accident while pulling. Your liability just went way up if investigators start crunching numbers and learn you would not towing within limits; whether you are at fault or not does not matter.

Lastly as truck manufacturers are increasing capability I did a lot of research to see if I could get on 4 wheels instead of 6. I even reached out to the RV guy. Everything looked good EXCEPT I would be over rear axle weight by 300 lbs. To me it was not worth the chance should I be in an accident. Pay attention to trucks pulling trailers on the road and you will easily see when the truck is not the right tool for the pull.

Good luck in your search.


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[BadHemi2014]

Just please don't be this guy.

I don't remember what trailer he had but it was way too heavy. His bumper was like 4" off the ground.

 

[SkywalkerPhD]

Just please don't be this guy.
View attachment 240070
I don't remember what trailer he had but it was way too heavy. His bumper was like 4" off the ground.

There is so much wrong there. I don’t even see a WDH on that truck. I hope it was just being pulled somewhere to park it. I’m surprised he didn’t ruin his suspension.


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[dhay13]

Just please don't be this guy.
View attachment 240070
I don't remember what trailer he had but it was way too heavy. His bumper was like 4" off the ground.

But the manufacturer says it can tow 14,000lbs....lol

 

[dhay13]

Our old boat weighed about 7500lbs and I towed it with my 2013 1500 3.55's that had about an 8600lb tow capacity. Payload was about 1350lbs. I knew I was ok on payload since boats have less tongue weight. Truck towed it just fine. Then we bought a newer boat that was the same size. Found out later it weighed about 9500lbs when loaded up. We don't normally tow it far or too often but decided I'd rather be safe and legal so bought the 2500. The 1500 even towed the newer boat just fine but it was overloaded.

 

[dhay13]

Our old boat weighed about 7500lbs and I towed it with my 2013 1500 3.55's that had about an 8600lb tow capacity. Payload was about 1350lbs. I knew I was ok on payload since boats have less tongue weight. Truck towed it just fine. Then we bought a newer boat that was the same size. Found out later it weighed about 9500lbs when loaded up. We don't normally tow it far or too often but decided I'd rather be safe and legal so bought the 2500. The 1500 even towed the newer boat just fine but it was overloaded.

 

[20IndyRam]

My door sticker indicates that my truck has a 1004 lb max load with a 7200 lb GVWR. The curb weight numbers that I had looked up in the past indicated "similar" trucks weighed 5500 lb.

Obviously something doesn't make sense. The 7200 lb GVWR - 5500 lb curb weight would give a payload of 1700 lb. That sounded high. Suspected the answer was somewhere in between.

My fishing buddies and I are going in on a trailer that we can leave at the lake ~ 40 miles away. Sizes are in the 26' and 6000 lb range unloaded. I am shaping up as the designated driver.

Weighed the truck this AM and was surprised. Full load of diesel (33 Ga) and driver the truck weighed 6460. Subtract the driver (240 lb) and the 1004 lb payload is really close (within the scale accuracy).

The truck has the EcoDiesel, 3:92 gears, and airbags on all corners. I don't think we'll have an issue as long as we keep the vehicle and trailer loading light.

I was happy to see that the drive axle weight was well below the GAWR of 4100 lb. As long as we don't get stupid, we should be OK. This is a one and done for the trailer. Plan on keeping it there until we sell it.

I was amazed how easy it was to get the CAT weight. Downloaded the CAT "weigh my truck" app and signed up online. Pulled onto the scale and entered the "515" scale #. Easy peasy. Plan to do the same one we have the trailer.

 

[dhay13]

My door sticker indicates that my truck has a 1004 lb max load with a 7200 lb GVWR. The curb weight numbers that I had looked up in the past indicated "similar" trucks weighed 5500 lb.

Obviously something doesn't make sense. The 7200 lb GVWR - 5300 lb curb weight would give a payload of 1700 lb. That sounded high. Suspected the answer was somewhere in between.

My fishing buddies and I are going in on a trailer that we can leave at the lake ~ 40 miles away. Sizes are in the 26' and 6000 lb range unloaded. I am shaping up as the designated driver.

Weighed the truck this AM and was surprised. Full load of diesel (33 Ga) and driver the truck weighed 6460. Subtract the driver (240 lb) and the 1004 lb payload is really close (within the scale accuracy).

The truck has the EcoDiesel, 3:92 gears, and airbags on all corners. I don't think we'll have an issue as long as we keep the vehicle and trailer loading light.

I was happy to see that the drive axle weight was well below the GAWR of 4100 lb. As long as we don't get stupid, we should be OK. This is a one and done for the trailer. Plane on keeping it there until we sell it.

I was amazed how easy it was to get the CAT weight. Downloaded the CAT "weigh my truck" app and signed up online. Pulled onto the scale and entered the "515" scale #. Easy peasy. Plan to do the same one we have the trailer.



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Yeah the CAT scales make it very easy.

You should be fine towing that. I didn't add numbers in my head but a 6000lb trailer should be no problem, especially for a 1 time trip. Just take your time and give yourself plenty of stopping distance. Be sure to have a WDH set up on it too. If it is just you in the truck you will probably only be over by a few hundred pounds.

 

[thebuilderman]

OK Tow police. Nothing like scary games the guy. I rear pretty much the same truck 2018. I tow a 6000 lbs travel trailer and have no issues yes it is a little hard on the mountain I have towed my trailer from Canada to Florida with no issues and yes tow police I have gone on at CAT scale and yes I was close to my max. Me ,wife ,two children lab in create in the back. I did add air bag to the springs and I do have a cap on board.

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Dude, I’m thinking those folks were NOT trying to scare the OP. I’m thinking thread was un biased and very helpful. With the exception of your post. They weren’t acting in an abundance of caution, it was all really good sound advice, again with the exception of yours.
I’m thinking a dangerous drive with the family could be bad for not only them but for others on the road near them.
Just cuz the truck can do it doesn’t mean it’s safe. Best to go by the numbers. Your advise could end up causing others grief.
By the way if you want to sound more credible you need to proof read your post. Maybe you have a French accent? Talk to text sucks and your post wasn’t in the realm of English. It had to be deciphered,lol.

 

[thebuilderman]

OK Tow police. Nothing like scary games the guy. I rear pretty much the same truck 2018. I tow a 6000 lbs travel trailer and have no issues yes it is a little hard on the mountain I have towed my trailer from Canada to Florida with no issues and yes tow police I have gone on at CAT scale and yes I was close to my max. Me ,wife ,two children lab in create in the back. I did add air bag to the springs and I do have a cap on board.

View attachment 239804

View attachment 239805

OK Tow police. Nothing like scary games the guy. I rear pretty much the same truck 2018. I tow a 6000 lbs travel trailer and have no issues yes it is a little hard on the mountain I have towed my trailer from Canada to Florida with no issues and yes tow police I have gone on at CAT scale and yes I was close to my max. Me ,wife ,two children lab in create in the back. I did add air bag to the springs and I do have a cap on board.

View attachment 239804

View attachment 239805

Dude, I’m thinking those folks were NOT trying to scare the OP. I’m thinking thread was un biased and very helpful. With the exception of your post. They weren’t acting in an abundance of caution, it was all really good sound advice, again with the exception of yours.
I’m thinking a dangerous drive with the family could be bad for not only them but for others on the road near them.
Just cuz the truck can do it doesn’t mean it’s safe. Best to go by the numbers. Your advise could end up causing others grief, even injury. IMHO your advice seems to suck and could lead to dangerous condition and injury. Your not considering other drivers, road conditions, vehicle conditions and how they’ll change over time especially when maxed out, wind and what happens when he’s had the trailer over a few years and has filled the cabinets and under bed storage or brings a 4th person on the trip? When giving advice I feel it would be prudent to present it unbiased or biased with the err on caution. Just cuz YOU like driving overloaded and so far have had no adverse actions coming from that does not mean others should listen to your BS. I read all your posts for this thread. Hopefully I never have to drive near you.
The OP was smart in coming here and asking.
By the way if you want to sound more credible you need to proof read your post. Maybe you have a French accent? Talk to text sucks and your posts aren’t in the realm of English. They have to be deciphered,lol.
To the OP. Your questions have been great. The folks on this forum have great advice. IMHO your maxed out with no wiggle room. The weight of the hitch assembly also has to be attributed and the tow bar and hitch attachments have weight ratings that should also be considered.
As you drive and travel and put more wear and tear on your rig because it’s maxed out means conditions could deteriorate over time and when you have to pull off some emergency driving maneuvers you may have that unfortunate and possibly catastrophic event occur at that worst time.
With so much to consider and so much family fun to be had your experience may be a better one with a 3/4 ton truck. You don’t want to end up having a white knuckle experience on the way there just to dread the ride back. Half the fun is getting to your destination.

 

[KJ6MTJ]

I pull a 2021 Forest River 24RLXL that comes in around that 5500 dry 7200 max with my 2019 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi and 8 speed with 3:21 gears.

I live in the South East and it has been just fine. Get about 9 mpg towing. If you do venture out west up into the mountains, just take your time with it.

Make sure that you go with a travel trailer that full fills the requirement list and don't settle.

 

[2003F350]

There is so much wrong there. I don’t even see a WDH on that truck. I hope it was just being pulled somewhere to park it. I’m surprised he didn’t ruin his suspension.


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The WDH is there. It's one of the combo WDH/sway control systems. It's just...too much weight for the truck.

 

[Rod H]

Ok so we're looking into our first TT and we think we've narrowed it down to three. Looking for some feedback and suggestions. Before I list those here are some deets on the truck.

According to VIN # my trucks payload and tow cap are:

1298#
8198#

It's a 2016 1500 Laramie w/ 3.21 gear. Not the best for towing but capable.

We're a family of three ( My wife and I, and our 17yr son ).

We intend to actually travel with this, not just buy and park - I know this can make a difference.

I'll definitely invest in WDH/sway control regardless of TT purchased.

With all the above known here are three models we're considering...

Forest River Salem 179DBK - 502# tongue weight / 4865# GVWR

Grand Designs Imagine XLS 17MKE - 480# tw / 6395# GVWR

Cougar 22MLS - 645# tw / 7200# GVWR

Each has it's +s and -s for us. Any and all input is requested, good, bad, or otherwise.

Tx in advance-