Oil FILTER BY PASS VALVE

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StoneDude76

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How can you tell if the oil filters bypass valve was stuck open?

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onemc4you

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You cant. Not without testing on a test bench.
Maybe one day oil filters will come with a way to see if bypass is open while driving????


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StoneDude76

StoneDude76

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So I noticed the last couple of weeks my oil pressure at start up was around 42 psi. It never really moved from there. When the engine was up to temp It would only move up to say 47 if I really pushed It. I had used Red Line 5w30 and a royal purple filter last oil change. Start up used to be like 52 to 55. When warmed up around 48. My idle is raised to about 700 rpms. Wjen I really get on it it would raise to about 58. I changed my oil on Sunday. Did PP 5w30 with a wix filter. Well now its back up to 52 to 55 at start up. It looks like its back to normal.
Now heres the back breaker. My oil has metal flakes in it. So now I'm worried that the flakes passed through the motor cause the bypass valve was open. Motor still runs decent. No misfire. I do get a rattle when accelerating hard once the rpms get passed 3000 rpms.
So I was thinking that the filter was in bypass since the pressure was lower then normal and not really fluctuating.


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PumpkinStealer

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Did your filter that you took off rattle at all if you shake it? If so it might have been damaged. I always check my filters now after I got a few bad ones that were dented and rattled.
 
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StoneDude76

StoneDude76

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Did your filter that you took off rattle at all if you shake it? If so it might have been damaged. I always check my filters now after I got a few bad ones that were dented and rattled.
It didn't rattle at all. Looked fine. I have to cut it open and see what's going on in there. The weird thing I did notice is the anti drain valve wasn't covering the holes on top of the filter. I have to take a pic to show you guys.

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huntergreen

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It didn't rattle at all. Looked fine. I have to cut it open and see what's going on in there. The weird thing I did notice is the anti drain valve wasn't covering the holes on top of the filter. I have to take a pic to show you guys.

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I would have done an oil analysis of I saw metal flakes.
 

50BMG

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Hmm, I just responded on the other dealer oil change thread Stone...
Not sure you'd notice a giant decrease in oil pressure if the bypass valve opens up because it's designed to keep the pressure high "hell or high water/debris or not" by allowing the oil to flow past the filter element when it gets plugged.

Are you on a new engine break in period right now (fresh main bearings, new con-rod bearings, rings, etc...)?
I once had an experience with a high-filtration no-bypass (Canton) filter where I put it on my Cobra too early after a fresh engine build. What happened was the bearing babbitt plugged up the filter a bit and I noticed the pressure began to drop. I shut it down, nothing seemed to be wrong, and upon restart the pressure was once again fine, but as I ran it some more the babbitt began to get swirled around inside the filter body. The filter again began to plug and the pressure again began to drop. I shut it down, same thing again, nothing looked wrong; restart, good pressure at start, then slowly dropping.
When I opened the filter, it was obvious what was going on. I did a few hundred more miles with a Motorcraft filter to clear all the break in crap out of the engine, then went back to the Canton no bypass type. No problems since (72PSI on cold start, 45-60PSI on hot/full temp running motor depending on the revs).

Do the flakes in the oil attract a magnet? If it's bearing babbitt, that's is usually soft metal alloy with some lead which doesn't necessarily grab a magnet very well.

Is the used filter exceptionally heavy,more than it would be just being wet with oil? Cut the old filter apart and see if there are large pieces inside the filter body, possibly holding open the anti-drain valve or bypass valve (see my other post to see what those look like).
Personally, I wouldn't worry about the anti-drain valve too much. For a filter which sits vertically the anti-drain flapper doesn't do anything really. I don't even install them anymore when I replace the element during an oil change on my Canton type.

Definitely get the oil analyzed. That should tell you exactly what's going on...
 
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