Wiring a Switch Panel

[Musclemckeester]

I believe I may have bitten off more than my knowledge on electrical wiring and circuit boards so I'm looking for some help. This may or not be able to be done, but I'd like to take a crack at it if someone could give me a little guidance.

Here's what I'm trying to do: wiring up a factory aux switch from the 4500/5500 Chassis trucks into the lower slot of my truck (where the factory heated seats would be). Right now, all I have is a blank panel there. I know this will fit perfectly in the slot.

So this is what I've got:



Here's the backside of it:



When you take off the backside:



When you take the rubbery piece off:



What the backside looks like:



So my question is, is it possible to wire this for my off road lights? Right now I just have them wired to a simple switch. I'd also like to run my cutout into one of these ports too, if that's at all possible. Or are there more components that I would need, such as whatever plug would normally plug into this switch panel (pic #2)?

 

[0212353]

that........sucks...............damnit.

I'm not going to be wiring mine up, got me a remote for that ****. (gots planz).

 

[Musclemckeester]

I want this to work, even it it means paying someone with know how to do it. It can be done I'm sure of it. My cutout has a remote, but I say screw it, I want something I'm not going to loose and looks OEM.

 

[blackout11]

ya ouch cant help with this

 

[LB3711]

need the pinout of that thing. It most likely can't run high power thru there but sure can use it to power relays for your stuff.

 

[Musclemckeester]

So is the pinout what it would plug into in pic 2?

I don't care about wires, there's tons of room behind the panel to hide my wiring. So if I need a bunch of relays and crap that wouldn't bother me.

 

[Musclemckeester]

Edit: Nevermind.

 

[LB3711]

So is the pinout what it would plug into in pic 2?

I don't care about wires, there's tons of room behind the panel to hide my wiring. So if I need a bunch of relays and crap that wouldn't bother me.

yes

 

[Musclemckeester]

Ok I'll see if I can get that from the dealer.

 

[LB3711]

get some info and see what we can do. I bet there's connections for illumination, power to switches(single power feed in) and power out for each switch. I bet they are controlled by the BCM because they are only momentary switch. So that means you'll need a latching circuit to keep them "on". In these newer vehicles everything is controlled by the computer.

 

[wermbang]

Well here is some stuff I found and just copy pasted here, enjoy
Switchbank PDF
Here is a picture of the box that the pigtail kit came in "Part Number"
The pigtail has the plug that plugs into the switchbank. The wires are unattached and have to be inserted into plug.

It does not come with a schematic and I was unable to find one. I took the switch apart to figure out Hot and ground and output pins. There are no lights that come on with dash lights. When you hit the switch it will light up amber and kills power to output pin. All outputs have voltage until switch is pressed. The output is not a ground. When this setup comes from the factory it is run through an Aux power box.
Here goes, hold the switch so that the lock indent is at the top, missing pin location is bottom middle right (pin6). Pins reading left-right, top-bottom are:

4321
8765 pin 6 is missing on the switch

or clockwise from missing pin 78 4321 5

1 +
2 -
3 Switch Output #2
4 Switch output #1
5 +
6 No pin
7 Switch output #4
8 Switch output #3

Pin 1 I believe is power to switches 1&2
Pin 5 I believe is power to switches 3&4
Be careful verifying this as one pin supplies the power for all the LEDs on the switches but not the actual switch?? (this is what I observed but my mind was fried by that point.)
This is what allows you to have one set of switches constant hot and one set ignition hot. If you want to have both ignition or both constant you just connect them both to the same source of 12 volt. They are to be fused at I believe 5 amps either way. A good source for this power is the 12 volt plugs in the dash one is constant, one is ignition hot. You can not use either of these as your power source for the relays though as they are not rated for the that much amperage.

 

[Musclemckeester]

Thanks a ton Luke!! I don't know how you did it, but that's a lot of helpful information right there. I found that "kit" in the picture online for about $20. I'm going to go ahead and order that. That should give me the pigtail connection and *hopefully" the aux box as well? I can't find now where I read that. I'll buy this one part at a time if I have to. This one of those things that if it takes time I'm fine with. I'm not in a rush as I do have a functioning switch for my lights. I just like this look 10x better.

Then I guess the only other thing else I may or may not need is the connector that is under the hood that it talks about in the explanation.

 

[LB3711]

Very good info. I doubt the 1500's will have that wiring. That would be ideal though. Need the actual schematics just to see if it's controlled by the computer or not.


Sent from my AT&T iPhone 4.

 

[wermbang]

Bosch (now Tyco) Relays are $4 apiece, the nice plug with wiring runs for each realy is $3 apiece, I bought 10 pin connectors for the switch at $.10 apiece, a $10 **** fuse for the battery run and had maybe $10 of additional wiring. Right at $50 before tax for all of the wiring.

I put the four relays behind the center dash coverplate below the radio. There's a large gap there. The wiring all runs out of sight so it is completely stealth and appears 100% factory.

The only surprise was that there are two hidden torx screws on the top of the dash center below the rubber bottom under the "Dodge" logo and there is a third torx screw hidden behind the 110v power invertor plug that requires you to remove the black plastic bezel around the plug. Other than that, the entire center piece snaps off and on easily.


Found another
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/2010/docs/dcdm/dcdmufwii.pdf

 

[Musclemckeester]

Geez, if the only "surprise" is getting the center piece off this should be a piece of cake.

So I'm guessing I'm going to have one relay per switch I'm using, correct?

But I still need need the "kit" in the picture ^^^ right? I found that kit online; it just doesn't give any description on what all it includes or what it is for.

 

[Musclemckeester]

Here's what I found for the kit:

Mopar Part 68057288AA 8 WAY WIRING

 

[Sharp Charge]

So is there any update to this? I just got the switch bank and wiring harness the other day, came to look for install stuff. I had been looking over on the Z forum too. This schematic is more than I found there, so thanks in advance!

 

[Sharp Charge]

Anything?