2004 1500 5.7 engine noise

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Willsc

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Apologize for this being long but want to be through.


I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.7 Hemi bought new in 2004 and currently has 70k on it. Recently it has developed a problem that started out while I was on a trip a few hundred miles from home. Stopped at a rural out of the way gas station to refill before heading for home as I was almost empty. About 20 miles later I had to make a stop at a Lowes and when I restarted the truck I heard a ticking noise and no it is not the Hemi tick as it was louder, rythmic and increased in tempo and noise level with rpm's. Stopped truck, let it sit a bit and checked the oil and it was 3 quarts low. The oil gauge was still sitting dead in the center. The truck has used a lot of oil lately especially in the last 10k miles. Would say I was 3 quarts low on 2000 miles on the odometer. Refilled the oil and headed home. When I got back home the ticking was still there and over the days got to more of a knock/rattle and louder. Also have a severe hesitation when taking off and it lacks a LOT of power. It idles just fine, perhaps a bit roughly maybe but if so not much and does not stall. Starts just fine in the first second the key is turned. Sometimes at Idle the knock is gone or almost but touch the gas and the knock, to me sounds more like a rattle.

The truck does not smoke...can't figure out why it doesn't with the oil it is burning. It does not overheat. No oil in coolant no coolant in oil.

Because I thought maybe it was the gasoline I was at about 1/3 of a tank when I returned from GA and refilled it with premium, made no difference. Still at better than 3/4 of a tank.

Did an oil change with Penzoil 5-30 (dino) and a new fram HM filter....though I don't consider the milage high. Oil looked fine, dirty but not that bad. Saw no sign of any metal in the oil filter, even ran a magnet through the old oil and no metal at all. No change so decided to change the plugs and wires as both were still original. The plugs looked ok to me though I would say the gap was now .060 or something..much bigger than the .045 of the new plugs. None of the plugs were wet but some looked kind of white at the tip? Made no difference.

I did some reading and heard about the exhaust manifold bolts breaking so I removed the passenger side splash guard as to me that is the side it sounded like it was coming from. Bolts seemed fine to me. Just to be sure I hooked up a vacuum cleaner set to blow out to the tailpipe and worked the cold exhause with a spray bottle of water and dish soap. Sprayed all the bolts and no leaks and the clamp. Happened to get some over spray on the manifold itself and what do you know a ton of bubbles, a 2" hairline crack in the middle front of the manifold itself. So ordered a new exhaust manifold but while the manifold was disconnected I ran the engine a bit and did not hear the rattle clang whatever it is but it was so freaking loud who knows. Manifold arrives and put it on and the freaking noise was still there, completely unchanged. I did retest the new manifold with the vacuum and no leaks.

I checked the Pcv valve and it still rattled but was a oily crudddy mess and I will replace it but I don't think it would cause all the issues I am having?

The throttle body was very dirty and cleaned that as well. Inside where the throttle body mounts was also very oily did not clean that as was not sure if I should.

A neighbor convinced me it was the Cat converter and while dubious because the Vacuum cleaner could push air through it I did cut it off, was pristine inside, could see through it no problem. While the cat was off I took the vacuum hose off the brake booster and added sea foam to it and let it sit. Did that a couple of times and the noise went away....granted with just the short pipe and no muffler it was pretty loud but still I could clearly hear the noise then did not hear the noise even if you revved it up a bit. Oddly after I let the seafoam sit then restarted it there was almost no smoke at all which surprised me? Then took the exaust off from muffler to manifold and welded the dang cat back on, reinstalled it and you guessed it noise was still there.

Sadly the 04 Hemi won't give the codes with the on off 3 times procedure and I am reluctant to drive it to get the codes pulled. I did disconnect the battery as well for a reset. Perhaps I should buy a reader? Will there be codes even with no check engine light?

Pulled the valve cover on the passenger side and I could find nothing at all wrong with the springs or rockers, everything looked perfect. I was by myself so I set my phone next to it and started recording and went and turned the key all seemed to move as it is supposed to. Thing even started....with just the 4 cylinders but of course shut it right off.

Removed the serpentine belt and started engine and the sound remained so ruled out an accesory.

I used a mechanics stethascope on the engine and while I am not an expert I listened to things I could think of. Could hear the injectors firing while my ears told me the rattle clang noise was coming from passenger valve area the stethascope tells me it is coming from or at least is the loudest about 2 inches back from the front of the oil pan just to the passenger side a couple inches of center?

Been a good truck...only issues it has ever had was a lightning strike that hit a tree 40 feet from it took out the computer and 3 of the 4 ABS censors but that was 6 or so years ago. Did have a oil gauge that sometimes you would start the truck and would be at zero. If you shut the truck off and restarted it the gauge would then work fine.

I did put a can of seafoam in the tank as well as some in crankcase.

knock/rattle
Hesitation
Lack of power at take off and lack of top end speed. I swear if I floored it a Prius would win the race.
Oil usage

idles fine
no stalling
No smoke
No Check engine light



Any help or suggestions sure would be appreciated.

Will
 

RonJon '06

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If it was misfiring it should throw a code. I would do a compression test, dry and wet, to see if you've got a bad piston ring or rings or a bad valve or lifter.
 
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Willsc

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I ordered a compression tester and a code reader today, should be delivered Sunday.
 
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Willsc

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I can disconnect 4 of the coil packs 2 on each side of the engine all at the same time and it makes no difference in how the engine idles? Is that normal? The other 4 coil packs if I disconnect them one at a time with the other 7 plugged in I can hear and see a difference in the engine immediately. I tried to disconnect two of the "good" ones at the same time and the engine almost stalled and even after plugging them back in it still idled horribly until I shut the truck off and restarted it then all was back to normal..well normal for how it was acting with the current problem. Is this normal and has something to do with two plugs per cylinder?

If it matters the injectors that make the engine change pitch when removed are 1 2 7 8 and when 3 4 5 6 are removed no sound change or increased vibration can be felt.
 

DDean

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Could it be the oil type maybe? Both my truck and wife's durango require 5-20. My wife's is an 03 and my ram is 07. Look and see what kind of oil is reommended. If it's different than 5 30 change it and see if the ticking goes away
 

RonJon '06

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For each cylinder one spark plug is the primary and the second plug fires after to burn off the unused fuel for emissions. It sounds like you're running on 4 cylinders. If it were me I would still do the compression test. You could also test for spark, bad PCM? I believe there is a tool you can get that will test for power in the wire leading to the coil pack. Also check for loose or cracked wires.
 
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Willsc

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RonJon,

I have checked the coil packs and all of them spark robustly. Wires are brand new, week old one of the things I replaced as well as the plugs. Is it possible it is 4 plugged injectors? That the computer is trying to adjust it and that is causing the knock? A spark knock? Sure wish these things had an external fuel filter. If it is the fuel I am still at 3/4 of a tank......
 

RonJon '06

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Have you tried swapping just the injectors? Maybe remove the fuel rail and clean it out making sure nothing is clogged. Usually a bad injector will cause a misfire and a throw a code. The fact that it was low on oil and is still burning oil would makes me think piston rings, especially with no check engine light or codes.
 
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Willsc

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I had not touched the injectors yet, will do that tomorrow as well as driver side valve cover and compression check and codes when the package arrives.
 
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Willsc

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Well I pulled 4 injectors off one side and fired them outside the car and the spray looked perfect so did not bother with the other side as it made no difference in the engine.

The compression tester came and after unhooking all those dang coil packs yet again I started the test. I was surprised as I REALLY figured I would have a bad cylinder but that is not the case....they were in order of 1-8 190 200 192 198 188 202 190 201 So does that tell me the springs and cams are fine? Or do I still need to pull that valve cover? Going to see if I can get the code reader to work now.
 

RonJon '06

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Well I guess that's good news. You've got good compression, fuel and spark. Without any codes I'm not sure what to do next, maybe your hunch about the bad gas was correct.
 
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Willsc

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RonJon,

Took the driver side valve cover off and all was perfect. The thing is the drivers side the rockers were getting oil squirting as the engine turned over..on the passenger side while cranking I did not see a drop coming out?

Here are the codes but I don't think it is helpful as I think I caused all of them disconnecting the injectors and coils as well as forgetting to hook the air temp sensor back up once.

There are a LOT of codes, 12 and I am pretty sure I caused them all......by pulling the coil pack wires and the injector connections.

0201
0202
0204
2302
2305
2308
2311
2314
2317
2320
2323
0113

Then it said unverified codes
0201
2302
0113
 

RonJon '06

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In order to get rid of the erroneous codes do a hard reset: disconnect the battery, touch the pos and neg cables together then restart the truck. At this point I would be trying to localize the noise. Can you upload a video?

EDIT: If the ends of the pushrods are worn from not getting oil that could cause a tick/rattle.
 
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Willsc

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RonJon,

I cleared the codes and no new ones popped up. Have a mechanics stethoscope and I can hear the tick the loudest from under the truck at the front of the oil pan, perhaps 2" back from the front and about 2" toward the passenger side. My ear tells me it is the passenger valve cover but the stethoscope disagrees. Ran propane around the air intake manifold and could find no leaks. When the gas hit the throttle body though I expected the revs to go up but the opposite happened and the truck died.

I will get a video made.
 

RonJon '06

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That sounds like a knock. Could be a loose piston wrist pin but since it was low on oil I would think its more likely to be a bad rod bearing or main crankshaft bearing. Hopefully you'll get some more opinions on it.
 

RonJon '06

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I listened to it again and I can hear the rattle you're talking about. It sounds irregular so maybe a loose timing chain? That might explain the hesitation, loss of power and the knock.
 
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Willsc

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With the stethoscope it sounds tinny so I sure hope it is the timing chain because if not looks like a new motor would be needed which sucks at that low of miles. I will be sure to let you know the outcome as I hate it when people just leave the threads hanging.....like tearing out the last few pages of a book and giving it to someone to read.
 

xtremewlr

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Any updates on your motor Willsc? Been a couple months now and I'm very interested to see what you found.
 

BadFast94

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Well I think I got something too here my video but on my I only hear went i turn on and went stop at light or stop sign I hear after 1100 rpm it's gone my everything is perfect and where it need to be. Went I the gas it's goes with no problems but I just hate that nose

http://youtu.be/hWqSziBHt58
 
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