Ready to pull the trigger on LT's !!

[nickpohlaandp]

Ordered from you this morning! Cant wait to get them on!

Matt will tell you that you can take a grinder to the stock clamps to remove them from your existing tips, but if you don't have one (or don't feel like dealing with it like me), get a good pair of pliers and a firm grip on the clamp near the weld and just bend it. It will snap off clean at the weld. I did that to both of my stock tips and had the clamps off in about 30 seconds. Easy peasy.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Matt will tell you that you can take a grinder to the stock clamps to remove them from your existing tips, but if you don't have one (or don't feel like dealing with it like me), get a good pair of pliers and a firm grip on the clamp near the weld and just bend it. It will snap off clean at the weld. I did that to both of my stock tips and had the clamps off in about 30 seconds. Easy peasy.

He ordered Headers, not tips.

But good to know that you were able to break that tack weld off. I have always used a grinder...I'm surprised it broke off that easy.

 

[Freed127]

6 speed

 

[Hemi450hp]

You got it. I just sent you tracking info. Should be there on Friday.

 

[nickpohlaandp]

He ordered Headers, not tips.

But good to know that you were able to break that tack weld off. I have always used a grinder...I'm surprised it broke off that easy.

Like butter.

 

[nickpohlaandp]

Ordered from you this morning! Cant wait to get them on!

He ordered Headers, not tips...

Cool deal. Which headers did you go with?

 

[Freed127]

The 1 3/4 ARH with cats. Id have gone catless, but I used to have a straight piped cummins and although it was good for short trips it drove me absolutely nuts on roadtrips.

 

[powderbrad]

Also you'll get codes for exhaust. Apparently its an issue with hemis longtubes and high flow cats.

I've a code and I'm fairly positive I dont have any exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks. Rechecked my headers and no broken bolts either.

I'm going to have to try anti foulers or something to see if it eliminates the code

 

[Freed127]

Custom tune with take care of possible CELs

 

[nickpohlaandp]

The 1 3/4 ARH with cats...

I'd have gone catless. I've got no cats with my JBA's running through the stock sport muffler and it's great. You only really hear it when you get on it. Driving around normal or cruising down the highway it's just like stock.

Also you'll get codes for exhaust. Apparently its an issue with hemis longtubes and high flow cats.

I've a code and I'm fairly positive I dont have any exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks. Rechecked my headers and no broken bolts either.

I'm going to have to try anti foulers or something to see if it eliminates the code

Custom tune with take care of possible CELs

Exactly, you need to tune for LT's with or without cats.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Also you'll get codes for exhaust. Apparently its an issue with hemis longtubes and high flow cats.

I've a code and I'm fairly positive I dont have any exhaust leaks or vacuum leaks. Rechecked my headers and no broken bolts either.

I'm going to have to try anti foulers or something to see if it eliminates the code

What code are you throwing? I have hundreds of customers with longtubes and no cats that dont throw any codes with Sean tuning it. There are some circuit codes that cant be disabled through tuning, and those are usually due to a faulty sensor or wire that is pinched, cut, melted, etc...

 

[Hemi450hp]

I'd have gone catless. I've got no cats with my JBA's running through the stock sport muffler and it's great. You only really hear it when you get on it. Driving around normal or cruising down the highway it's just like stock.

He is running an Aero 3030 muffler with no resonators. That muffler alone is A Lot louder than your current setup even with him having stock manifold and stock cats. Try running that muffler with longtubes, no cats or resonators, and you will be pulling your hair out by the end of the day...haha.

 

[powderbrad]

What code are you throwing? I have hundreds of customers with longtubes and no cats that dont throw any codes with Sean tuning it. There are some circuit codes that cant be disabled through tuning, and those are usually due to a faulty sensor or wire that is pinched, cut, melted, etc...

Maybe it's just the 6.1/6.4 challenger guys then?

STILL throwing p2245 bank 1 sensor 1 ref voltage low. Been like that for awhile. No vacuum or exhaust leaks that I can find. Checked header bolts no soot rusty leakage or anything. New front 02 sensors didn't help. Changed 02 extension wires as well out of curiosity.

Yeah sean said he couldnt do anything with the front 02s as i was asking if he could change the swing rates or 02 warm up times to see if it would help alleviate since I've received a newer revision of my tune.

EDIT I HAVE cats...hi flow seem to be the problem. Though I didn't have codes for the first 5000kms but the last 12000...lol

 

[Freed127]

Hey matt, i was looking under my truck today to look for hidden issues. Is there any trick to that lower dipstick bolt? I can get a good look at it with my lift with the diff dropped, but it doesnt look like there is enough clearance to get it all the way out without hitting the motor mount.

 

[nickpohlaandp]

Hey matt, i was looking under my truck today to look for hidden issues. Is there any trick to that lower dipstick bolt? I can get a good look at it with my lift with the diff dropped, but it doesnt look like there is enough clearance to get it all the way out without hitting the motor mount.

It must be different on the 4WD's because I've seen this complaint a few times. Mine came out with no issues whatsoever.

 

[Freed127]

Ya i could see this being a 4wd thing. Id say the head of the dipstick bolt is about a 3/16 of an inch off of my motor mount. I dont see how i could get that out without cutting the tab off the dipstick tube itself

 

[Hemi450hp]

Hey matt, i was looking under my truck today to look for hidden issues. Is there any trick to that lower dipstick bolt? I can get a good look at it with my lift with the diff dropped, but it doesnt look like there is enough clearance to get it all the way out without hitting the motor mount.

That little bolt is the only difficult part about this swap. It can be removed without taking off the motor mount, but you will probably end up with a few scraped knuckles, and if you have kids, they may hear you say a few new words they havent heard before...haha.

 

[Freed127]

Anyone know what the recommended torque is for a set of headers? Or is it just a tight on feel kinda thing. Hoping to have all my information ready so i can start friday after work. Still dreading that dipstick bolt lmao

 

[nickpohlaandp]

Anyone know what the recommended torque is for a set of headers? Or is it just a tight on feel kinda thing. Hoping to have all my information ready so i can start friday after work. Still dreading that dipstick bolt lmao

It's not high. IIRC it's only around 12 or 13 lb. ft. There's a sticky with all of the engine torques.

DO NOT torque down one end of the flange and move down to the next. I would recommend starting in the middle, tighten SLIGHTLY from center to outside, making sure the flange is sitting level top, bottom, and side to side. Keep torqueing in small increments until you have all the bolts tight. If you go hammer hands and tighten down the upper bolts, lower bolts, or the side bolts first, your flange won't seat correctly and you will have leaks.

 

[Freed127]

Well i got everything out tonite except for that dipstick bolt. I have it loosened to the point i can turn it with my fingers only for it to hit the motor mount now. My only thought at this point is to loosen the 4 motor mount bolts enough to rock the motor and get it out.... Any other options you guys know? The bolt has to be ready to come out lol. If dodge only thought to make a notch now instead of a hole