Tire Question

thekevin · Jun 3, 2017

I just have the stock Goodyears on my 2017 1500 and we bought a 27ft camper last week that weighs somewhere between 6000 and 6500lbs loaded. I was wondering if my stock tires were ok for that weight of if I needed to look at getting some XL rated tires. I had 8ply KO2's on my last truck but I wasn't really wanting to go with a heavy tire again.

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MADDOG · Jun 3, 2017

I'd suggest a 10 ply tire. You don't need to go to a heavy offroad type tire.

69GWC · Jun 3, 2017

These stock P rated tires aren't good for much and mine squash way to much under weight and make the truck wonder unless you over inflate them.
Some E rated tires would be a big plus for you I am sure, and like was said you dont have to buy a aggressive treaded tire.

14hemiexpress · Jun 3, 2017

From a technical stand point the factory tires can handle the weight. Goodyear sra's are rated at 2600 each witch is 5200lbs if I'm not mistaken the rear axle gvw is 3900 so 1300lbs higher than the gvw. That being said a beefier tire would handle it much more stable. My suggestion would be to pull your trailer a few times and see how much squish you get with the factory tires and go from there.

thekevin · Jun 3, 2017

I have put about 200 miles on it so far, but all of that without a weight distribution hitch which will be here on Monday. I put new 6ply trailer tires on last week and was thinking that the truck probably needed to be updated as well.

69GWC · Jun 3, 2017

14hemiexpress said:
From a technical stand point the factory tires can handle the weight. Goodyear sra's are rated at 2600 each witch is 5200lbs if I'm not mistaken the rear axle gvw is 3900 so 1300lbs higher than the gvw. That being said a beefier tire would handle it much more stable. My suggestion would be to pull your trailer a few times and see how much squish you get with the factory tires and go from there.

Well they might rate them that high but if you had seen my tires you would not want them either. my tires looked like they had 20 psi when they had 42psi in them and handled like crap.
Ad the weight of the truck and then your cargo/trailer they dont cut it.

If your going to use the truck as a truck new tires are needed a P rated tire should be on a car not a truck.

14hemiexpress · Jun 3, 2017

69GWC said:
Well they might rate them that high but if you had seen my tires you would not want them either. my tires looked like they had 20 psi when they had 42psi in them and handled like crap.
Ad the weight of the truck and then your cargo/trailer they dont cut it.

If your going to use the truck as a truck new tires are needed a P rated tire should be on a car not a truck.

I in no way am saying that the factory tires are good. I'm saying per there specs they will handle the weight without exploding. I have pulled a 8k enclosed car hauler on factory tires and I pulled it home with my dad's f-250 the tires rolled on them selfs something horrible. Im just saying to give it a chance and see how bad it is before spending the cash and taking the hit on mpg before he knows just how bad it is. every trailers balance is different and at 6500 lbs he's running 650-975 hitch weight transfer couple hundred to the front with a WDH and you may only have 5-700 on the hitch and they may handle the load just fine.

SouthShoreRAM · Jun 4, 2017

i am running Firestone destination a/t tires on my ram 1500, on the stock 20 in rims.
highly recommend.

LT275/65R20 E

thekevin · Jun 4, 2017

I have pretty much decided to get a set of Nitto Dura Grapplers in 10ply. Now the real question, do I go with 20s on the stock wheels or do I go with aftermarket 17's.

mtofell · Jun 4, 2017

No way to give an accurate/helpful answer without knowing weights. 6000-6500# is just the trailer. How much is the tongue weight? How much payload in the truck when towing? Everyone is just guessing.

thekevin · Jun 5, 2017

Dry hitch weight is 475. Unloaded trailer weight is 4350, I was being generous with the 6000lbs. I don't think I will ever actually hit that mark as I won't ever be hauling any water in it, just supplies. I figure between passengers and cargo probably around 1000lbs in the truck.

mtofell · Jun 5, 2017

thekevin said:
Dry hitch weight is 475. Unloaded trailer weight is 4350, I was being generous with the 6000lbs. I don't think I will ever actually hit that mark as I won't ever be hauling any water in it, just supplies. I figure between passengers and cargo probably around 1000lbs in the truck.

What does your door sticker say for payload? Yeah, you'd have to put a lot in that trailer to get it up over 6000#. I add roughly 1500-2000 to a 35' 5th wheel - the range is depending on how much water.

Even the stock tires should be okay. 10-ply would be overkill and the stock rims likely aren't rated for the 80spi those take so you're kind of throwing money away as E-rated tires are expensive. Even just some nice LT 6 or 8 plys (C or D rated) would be a big improvement over the squishy stock tires.

thekevin · Jun 5, 2017

mtofell · Jun 5, 2017

So, with payload max of 1399# you'll be over your truck's GVWR with what you propose. Axle rating of 3900 each is the most important to not overload which is why I mention E rated tires are overkill. My E rated tires are good 3600# a piece. Having 7200# tire ability for an axle that maxes out at 3900# doesn't make sense.

Best bet is to load your truck up like you're going camping (with the trailer if possible) and roll through a scale so you know what you're ultimately dealing with. If not with the trailer or people you can probably estimate pretty close.

dRAMbuie · Jun 5, 2017

The LT tire option that comes from factory is a 10ply tire anyway.
So I really wouldn't think twice about it. Especially if you're towing.

Just my two cents though.

dRAMbuie · Jun 5, 2017

thekevin said:
I have pretty much decided to get a set of Nitto Dura Grapplers in 10ply. Now the real question, do I go with 20s on the stock wheels or do I go with aftermarket 17's.

17's are technically better for towing.
With the amount of torque you're getting I wouldn't think 20's would be detrimental. Except maybe in the wallet.

My rig is decently heavy and I do run the factory 17" LT tires, and they have been pretty rock solid for towing.

Plan to try out some Toyo AT2's for my next set, but only because I've found wet traction with the factory Goodyears to be less than stellar.

Srode · Jun 5, 2017

I am happy to stumble across this post... i too am looking to upgrade my Goodyear Wrangler SRA tires. I need a brand that is reliable for full-time regular highway towing and off roading fun. What brands/tires has everyone had success with that is D or E load rated?

bcbouy · Jun 5, 2017

here's my perspective. i carry a truck camper and tow a boat,and the best thing i did was junk the stock 33x 17's for some 35x20's.handling has improved to the point that i wouldn't put the 17's back on if you put a gun to my head.junk the p tires,as mentioned previously they have no buisiness on a truck.find a set of 10 ply.

69GWC · Jun 5, 2017

Srode said:
I am happy to stumble across this post... i too am looking to upgrade my Goodyear Wrangler SRA tires. I need a brand that is reliable for full-time regular highway towing and off roading fun. What brands/tires has everyone had success with that is D or E load rated?

Really just about any C rated and up will be better then the P rated Goodyear tires that are on our trucks.

I am going with BFGs KM2s Mt, 10 ply 35x12.5x18s, I have had Toyos MTs and have Mickey Thompson MTZs on my 69 K 10 all of them are great tires IMO and all of them make a great AT tire as well.
Nitto also makes some great tires check them put as well.

thekevin · Jun 7, 2017

My thinking is a 10ply in 17 would ride better than a 10ply in a 20 and still have better sidewalls and way less squish than my factory 20s even if I only run minimal air pressure in them. I only ran 40psi in my 275/60/20 KO2's on my Ford and they were leaps and bounds better than stock and far as sidewall flex.

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