Winter storage

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TerraNewf

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I have given it some serious thought about storing my Ram for the winter and buying a Wrangler. Couple things I'm not sure about, Leave wheels on or jack it up and remove wheels? Disconnect battery? Are there any other things I should do or worry about? Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.
 

baum

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LOL i never heard of anybody that park a truck during the winder time.. to each its their own.

I use to have a camaro and i would store it. honestly i would just park it in the garage and walk away with a full tank, full tire pressure. my garage would stay at about 30-45 in the winter (im in minnesota)

everyone is different though.
 
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TerraNewf

TerraNewf

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LOL i never heard of anybody that park a truck during the winder time.. to each its their own.

I use to have a camaro and i would store it. honestly i would just park it in the garage and walk away with a full tank, full tire pressure. my garage would stay at about 30-45 in the winter (im in minnesota)

everyone is different though.

The winters can be pretty brutal up here, lots of salt and chemicals used on the roads. I've seen Ram trucks with no paint left on rockers after 3 winters. I just want this truck to last for a long time, It was sprayed with oil the second day I owned it. But that only protects the undercarriage of the truck.
 

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I park my 3500 for the winter. It is used primarily for towing and don't tow in the winter. I park it in the garage, tires on wood (prevents the cement from pulling moisture from the tire), Battery Tender on the batteries, large plastic cup covering the exhaust (no critters nesting), anti-gel in the fuel, and a breathable cover over it.

OP inside or outside storage?
 

unxpctd

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I had a 550hp Supercharged Mercury Marauder for 10 years. Stored it for 9 of those winters. Lots of HP and rear wheel drive doesn't mix with icy snowy roads here in MN.

I never jacked it up and or took the wheels off. Just covered it up and put a trickle charger on it from time to time.

I like BossHogg's idea of putting wood under the tires...but I never did that and didn't have any issues.

One thing I'll be doing with my Ram (which won't be stored) is washing it alot more. An extra couple car washes every month won't hurt the budget too much.
 
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TerraNewf

TerraNewf

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I park my 3500 for the winter. It is used primarily for towing and don't tow in the winter. I park it in the garage, tires on wood (prevents the cement from pulling moisture from the tire), Battery Tender on the batteries, large plastic cup covering the exhaust (no critters nesting), anti-gel in the fuel, and a breathable cover over it.

OP inside or outside storage?

Not 100% sure but I think I've secured an inside storage spot for it. Good idea putting planks under the tires
 

unxpctd

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One thing I forgot about (and to mention) is that my winter storage was in my own garage (have a 4 car attached / finished / heated) so I had access to my vehicle everyday. If you're storing it off site you may want to even consider pulling the battery. I guess it would depend on if its a heated storage unit.

Good luck!
 

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I use to have a camaro and i would store it. honestly i would just park it in the garage and walk away with a full tank, full tire pressure. my garage would stay at about 30-45 in the winter (im in minnesota)

X2 for me.
Some guys put their stuff up on jackstands, but most guys I know don't. If you want to take it a step further, roll it forward a little every couple months to keep the tires from flat-spotting. Some guys put vehicles up on jackstands too although I think that's a little extreme and if you needed to get it out quick (fire), you'd have to hoist it up first. Still can't hurt I guess. Even after sitting after a year on concrete, I've always had tires straighten themselves out after 5 miles or so. For the battery, either unhook it or put a maintenance charger on it like a battery tender. Don't let it go flat if you can avoid it. If you unhook it just remember that by spring the vehicle will probably run a little rough and need to re-learn your driving pattern, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. If you unhook the battery at least you won't have to worry about a fire (will you leave insurance on it??). This is what I use to keep my batteries up and it works really well (it's actually a really smart charger!):
https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-chargers/12-volt/0-4amps/bm1510.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqex6O241gIVQUSGCh1HMwusEAYYBCABEgIaofD_BwE

Maybe put several dryer sheets around the engine compartment (and inside if you need to) to keep mice out. If it's not in your shed and you don't know the environment, mice can do horrible damage to a vehicle, besides make nests in places that eventually cause rust (mice pee) and under the hoodliner. I had mice once chew through a whole bundle of wires up by the firewall that took a long time to repair. For whatever reason, they don't seem to like dryer sheets. A little bait can't hurt too. On my Ram, I looked at the wire harness wrap going towards the firewall and it's not fully wrapped. It's just like offering up a buffet to these mice! (I might re-wrap)

Good luck
 
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TerraNewf

TerraNewf

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Maybe put several dryer sheets around the engine compartment (and inside if you need to) to keep mice out.


Thanks for the dryer sheet tip, never heard of that before. I can how a nightmare could happen.
 

axhoaxho

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Another vote for putting Bounce (or similar brands) around the engine/interior/undercarriage to keep the rodents out. It really works.

Add air to the tires when parking for long time, so no flat spots will be developed. After the Winter before driving, re-adjust the air accordingly.

Connect a battery tender to the truck.

If you can still access the truck, start up the engine and let it run once a while.

If the environment is dusty, put a car-cover on the truck.

These are what I can think of so far, I am sure other folks would have other good tips to share.

Regards,
 

Cardhu

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I'd put the frame on jack stands to take weight off tires and suspension. top up tire inflation, a bit over is fine, keep round things round.

The rest is battery, fuel, and critter management. Fuel stabilizer works.

Keep storage coverage on your insurance or Layup protection or whatever Ontario calls it.

if your worried about wheels rusting on, put some paint on the rotor where the tire mounts.
 
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TRCM

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I'd put the frame on jack stands to take weight off tires and suspension. top up tire inflation, a bit over is fine, keep round things round.

The rest is battery, fuel, and critter management. Fuel stabilizer works.

Keep storage coverage on your insurance or Layup protection or whatever Ontario calls it.

if your worried about wheels rusting on, put some paint on the rotor where the tire mounts.

Just wanted to clarify....the part around the lug studs where the wheel touches the rotor, not anywhere else, and be careful of overspray on the braking surface of the rotor.

It also wouldn't hurt to pull the pads up front as them sitting against the rotor will cause minor raised areas from corrosion that will give you the feeling of a warped rotor if bad enough

You could also just put a plastic bag over that area and then just put the rim back on....and put a bag around the pads too to prevent any moisture between them & the rotor from causing corrosion

Same can be said for the rear brakes & emergency brake, so keep that in mind too.any moisture between the pad & rotor or drum will cause corrosion that can be felt when braking later on.




Never heard of putting tires on wood when on concrete, but I've always done it when parking on dirt or grass for long periods.

that was actually my parking pad for my GN....2 - 8' x 16" x 2" treated planks with a piece of a round landscaping timber at the end to serve as a bumpstop.
 
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Jeepwalker

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It also wouldn't hurt to pull the pads up front as them sitting against the rotor will cause minor raised areas from corrosion that will give you the feeling of a warped rotor if bad enough

That's a good thing to be aware of. Don't wash it or drive it from out of the rain/snow and just let it set or the brakes 'could' corrode to the rotors. If you don't park it wet you shouldn't have any problems. If you park it, just roll it forward once in a while to change brake location ...if you put it up on jackstands, roll the tires once in a while.
 
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TerraNewf

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Some excellent tips here, Thanks everyone. Keep them coming
 

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Park it on wooden blocks,and line the concrete under it with cardboard,the cardboard keeps the cold from radiating up as much,and also acts as a desiccate to absorb some of the condensation that occurs in cold storage.
 

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I see so many questions like this about winter storage and like a certain part of our anatomy, everyone has a "better" idea. For many decades I owned boats specifically inboard cruisers. My winterization consisted of draining the fresh water system and changing the oil and filters. Period. The boat, and the truck in question, won't be out of commission long enough to worry about any degradation of fuel and even the ideas on wood under the tires doesn't make sense to me. I would put my boats away with whatever amount of fuel that was in the tanks from near empty to filed up. NO stabilizers, no special treatments and no fogging of the fuel system. And in the spring they ALWAYS started without complaining. This past winter I was fortunate to be able to keep my Miata garaged and out of the weather. I put it "away" at some point in the fall and would occasionally take it out if the snow was melted and there may have been some rain to wash away the residual road salts. When the weather was right and the last of the snow seemed to have gone, the car was ready to rock and roll. All the long term storage ideas I see only make sense for sure LONG TERM, i.e. years, not a few months. Heck, when your vehicle was brand new before it's first ownership, how long do you thing they sat? Dealers and manufacturers don't worry about any sort of long term storage and some vehicles can actually sit for a year before getting sold.

As far as critters are concerned, I've seen lots of suggestions to keep them at bay as well as an almost equal number of people who experienced critters no matter what they did, including one who put his vehicle on a lift, 6 feet above ground, and found a nest under the hood when he brought it down in the spring!
 

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Well, you have been very lucky.

I know personally, I've had 2 tires on my boat trailer go bad, and by that, I mean basically they look like they blew out.....they had < 2500 miles on them, had the correct air pressure maintained , and they were not being driven when it happened.


And as far as the new vehicles, a new vehicle can sit longer....as it hasn't been driven/operated long enough to give any parts time to really get hot or experience the heat cycles that come from use that allow rust & corrosion to start showing up.
 

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My winterization consisted of draining the fresh water system and changing the oil and filters. Period.

the ideas on wood under the tires doesn't make sense to me.

As far as critters are concerned,

Changing oil and filters before storage doesn't make sense. You will still have moisture condensation in the crankcase. Leave it be for the storage period, then in the spring run the engine then change the oil and filter.

Some, not all tires will experience a flat spot due to the moisture being pulled from the tire by the cement.

Critters, one year they got into the top half of the engine and did $800 damage to the upper engine wiring harness (son's truck). I use a fail-safe solution that has yet to fail, cats!
 
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TerraNewf

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Well I put the boat away this week. Picking up a new Wrangler on November 4th. Looks like the storage place will have room for my truck as well. It will be the last item to get stored so I will be able to get it out if need be.
 
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