12 ram with 13+ TYC projectors.. Not impressed

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Mineralram

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There are no fans on the ones i got, they have heat sinks. The place i bought mine from also sells hid's but does not push them he also has a 2013 ram running leds in the projectors and says they look the same as hids with out all the hassels.

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hankRam2015

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Get the hid kit from retroshop. Best customer service and answers all questions. I ran his hid kit in my 09 and never had an issue. I'm currently running a set of switchbacks and his wire harness on my 16. He sent me one set of resistors. When I installed them I was still getting a bulb out msg. Sent jj a msg. He figured out that on the new 16's you need 2 resistors per side. He had another set of resistors in the mail that night. He's the only one I'll buy from.


I agree. Hands down the best to deal with. I bought a few things from him last month and had questions on all purchases in regards to install. Email him he answers instantly. Also record speed for shipping.
 
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Rammitman

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There are no fans on the ones i got, they have heat sinks. The place i bought mine from also sells hid's but does not push them he also has a 2013 ram running leds in the projectors and says they look the same as hids with out all the hassels.

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Now I'm very interested
 

Mineralram

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Check out absolute hid. If needed call Ivan he is the owner and will explain furthur... with leds you do not have to drill holes in your factory projector covers

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danmp

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I had a set of hid for the last 5 years. One of the ballast or bulb burned out. I decided to swap the whole kit since it's age.

I bought a set of hyluxtek ballast with cnlight bulb ( ball shaped bulb ) and holy crap I can't believe how much they are good vs my old kit ( I never had any issues with them ) But the hylux blast light up so fast and the bulb are really well focused for a reflector headlight. Also they are really 4300k color. They are really bright for a 35w kit ( vs my other kit ) and almost no glare, even less than the oem halogen bulb.

Anyone on the web according to say they are one of the best aftermarker hid kit availble. Even my local dealer sell them and warranty them for 3 years.


For the price they sell them you can't go wrong.
 

AFMoulton

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I had a set of hid for the last 5 years. One of the ballast or bulb burned out. I decided to swap the whole kit since it's age.

I bought a set of hyluxtek ballast with cnlight bulb ( ball shaped bulb ) and holy crap I can't believe how much they are good vs my old kit ( I never had any issues with them ) But the hylux blast light up so fast and the bulb are really well focused for a reflector headlight. Also they are really 4300k color. They are really bright for a 35w kit ( vs my other kit ) and almost no glare, even less than the oem halogen bulb.

Anyone on the web according to say they are one of the best aftermarker hid kit availble. Even my local dealer sell them and warranty them for 3 years.


For the price they sell them you can't go wrong.
Pics and link?
 

TestPilot57

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I will give a second (or third or whatever it is) to JJ at Retroshop.

Great product, great service.

As to high beam versus low beam, EVERY proper projector assembly will do both low and high. Yes, it's called the low beam position, but that's because it's the only place you get low beam.

Some of you (those that are over 40 or so) may remember the days of quad headlights. This was when there were no brand/model specific headlights - all cars used one of two different systems: either 1) 7" diameter headlight per side that had both high and low beam filaments, or 2) 5-1/4" (?) headlights per side; one with both high and low beam filaments, and one with high beam only.

The current Ram quads and Projectors are functionally similar. The "low beam" bulb is always on when the headlights are on. In the "Quad" (technically they are both quads, but we call the reflector halogen "quads" to differentiate them from the projectors), the low beams stay on when the high beams fire. However, in the Projectors, while the low beam bulb stays on and at the same power, a shutter that is blocking part of the light in low beam mode is lifted, essentially turning it into a high beam as well, kinda like the old round quads.

The bottom line is that AFAIK every factory HID projector installation is a "low beam only" application, where the HIDs provide both low and high beam, but they ALSO have halogen high beams to compliment the HIDs.

So, no, if you get HID projectors (and I strongly suggest you don't even think about putting HIDs into reflector housings), you don't need to also upgrade your high beams. You can, sure. But I really don't see any need. I got the Morimoto projectors from JJ with 50w bulbs and am very pleased with them. They're definitely not quite as good as my CLS550, but that cost twice as much as my Ram so what can you expect?
 

Rzrman328

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Agree.

The mh1's when shutters flipped down for highs with 50w provide more than enough light.

At least for my use.
 
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Rammitman

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I will give a second (or third or whatever it is) to JJ at Retroshop.

Great product, great service.

As to high beam versus low beam, EVERY proper projector assembly will do both low and high. Yes, it's called the low beam position, but that's because it's the only place you get low beam.

Some of you (those that are over 40 or so) may remember the days of quad headlights. This was when there were no brand/model specific headlights - all cars used one of two different systems: either 1) 7" diameter headlight per side that had both high and low beam filaments, or 2) 5-1/4" (?) headlights per side; one with both high and low beam filaments, and one with high beam only.

The current Ram quads and Projectors are functionally similar. The "low beam" bulb is always on when the headlights are on. In the "Quad" (technically they are both quads, but we call the reflector halogen "quads" to differentiate them from the projectors), the low beams stay on when the high beams fire. However, in the Projectors, while the low beam bulb stays on and at the same power, a shutter that is blocking part of the light in low beam mode is lifted, essentially turning it into a high beam as well, kinda like the old round quads.

The bottom line is that AFAIK every factory HID projector installation is a "low beam only" application, where the HIDs provide both low and high beam, but they ALSO have halogen high beams to compliment the HIDs.

So, no, if you get HID projectors (and I strongly suggest you don't even think about putting HIDs into reflector housings), you don't need to also upgrade your high beams. You can, sure. But I really don't see any need. I got the Morimoto projectors from JJ with 50w bulbs and am very pleased with them. They're definitely not quite as good as my CLS550, but that cost twice as much as my Ram so what can you expect?

So, taking the easy route here and not doing my research, do the tyc projectors I have operate with shutters? If so then hid's might just cure ma ailment
 
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Rammitman

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I'm gonna start asking you guys before I do stuff from now on lol
 
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Rammitman

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I took a look at mine and I believe my lows go off completely with the highs. I'm not sure how much light would get past the shutters but you'd think there would be some unless they go through the trouble of precision cut shutters with gaskets and etc. There is absolutely no light what so ever in the projector lens with the highs on. I believe I read somewhere that the trucks with factory quads, and I'm sure projectors, kept the lows on with the highs. Trucks with factory duals do not, which is what I had. Don't quote me on that, but I swear I saw it somewhere. So talked to the guys at retro shop and they suggested a harness they have that keeps the lows on with the highs. In gonna go that route before I get hids because I'm really not looking to blind people or turn off street lights, I just want my highs to be brighter than dollar store flashlights.
 

jlpowell84

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I dont know about all the offerings out there...HID...LED...ect...

I 99.9% of the time am that guy that researches everything before I buy! Simple Amazon purchase to headers...

I seen several were buying the OPT7 flux beam LEDs so I took a chance. I am aware they are known as a cheaper company and direct comparison LED bulbs I seen from Oracle or others were up to $160ish a set. The OPT7s were $99 a set and I ordered them and the fogs for $33 a set. I am decently impressed so far. For starters they look SO much better than nasty yellow lol. I am aware some had bad dark spots with these bulbs but I do not. Low beams and fogs light up the road great and I can see pretty well. I could imagine it being better but at the expense of blinding people and getting flashed I dont want, just want to see well and rid of the yellow look. They do have fans and heat sinks and IMO seem fairly well made. That is kinda a bold statement as I buy the best of anything 99% of the time. Anyway, thats my 2 cents of uneducated blabbing :)

My buddy does have HIDs in his Gen 2 CTD. I had it for a week this last late summer and IMO from memory them and the LEDS I got are about the same in brightness. Maybe his had more of a flood light to the beam patterns while the LEDs I got have a more focused beam.
 
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Rammitman

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I am very interested in led's. If I can get my halogen situation sorted, I may go with led later. If I can't get it right using halogen then it's clear that I need the brightest lights available and, right now anyway, I feel like hid's are the brightest. IF you get a quality kit in the right color. I don't really like the fact that the leds have fans though. Seems like something else to go wrong and you won't know about it until it melts your light housings or something. But I'd rather have the light that leds put out.
 

TestPilot57

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Some LEDs have a ribbon heat sink instead of a fan. No input on how well it works, but at least it can't quit.
 

daveray9

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Get the morimoto's from retro shop.

Well worth it.

I went with 4500k first and didn't love em.. did 6k in the low and fog and I NEVER use my high beams ever...

Trust me. Best light output ever.

I also have the same setup as you. Black 2012 Ram (mines a sport, not sure what you are runnin
 

daveray9

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I went from the dual stockers to a set of tyc projectors today. Non hid. I gotta say the low beams are great but the high beams still suck. What am I missing here? Highs were the main reason I changed lights.

Also, on a side note... you already have the black honeycomb grille.. i had to swap my inserts for that.

pop out the front emblem and plasti dip it black and that front end will look sick!
 

TestPilot57

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Get the morimoto's from retro shop.

Well worth it.

Ditto!


I went with 4500k first and didn't love em.

That's personal preference. I feel 4500k is the best compromise between brightness and color rendition.

...I NEVER use my high beams ever...

Then either they're not adjusted properly (and you're blinding oncoming drivers) or you never really need light.

With properly adjusted cut-offs (2" drop per 25 feet), you can't see more than about 500' on level ground (39" stock 1500 height). At 75 MPH, you cover that distance in about 4.4 seconds. While that's technically within the average reaction time and stopping distance of a Ram, it's really not very far. I prefer to see the easy 1/2 mile + of my Morimotos.
 
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Rammitman

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Also, on a side note... you already have the black honeycomb grille.. i had to swap my inserts for that.

pop out the front emblem and plasti dip it black and that front end will look sick!

I thought about doing that. I had turn take my grille off to get the lights out and the emblem looks easy to just pop right off.
My truck is actually an st trim but it has sport bumpers and a few other options that aren't available on st trim. Somebody custom ordered it. I picked it up used 2 years old with 10k on the clock. Actually went to look at a citadel for the wife but I just couldn't pass it up lol
 
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Rammitman

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Ditto!




That's personal preference. I feel 4500k is the best compromise between brightness and color rendition.



Then either they're not adjusted properly (and you're blinding oncoming drivers) or you never really need light.

With properly adjusted cut-offs (2" drop per 25 feet), you can't see more than about 500' on level ground (39" stock 1500 height). At 75 MPH, you cover that distance in about 4.4 seconds. While that's technically within the average reaction time and stopping distance of a Ram, it's really not very far. I prefer to see the easy 1/2 mile + of my Morimotos.

I agree. My lows are fine but I want to be able to put my highs on and see way out. My 03 had a set of Mickey mouse eBay projectors and they were like spotlights on high. I loved them
 
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