Help! 09 crank but no start

SilverStreak88 said:

Yup, they seem to go out right after you fill up. I had 3/4 of a tank, I used a jack stand and my OEM scissor jack. Make sure you disconnect everything before dropping the tank. Give me a few hours to get home and I pull everything out on my computer and do a write-up for you so you don't make the mistakes I did.

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Awesome! You da man! Thanks


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Cgiese80 said:

Awesome! You da man! Thanks


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No worries

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Okay - sry, long night last night. We can go about this 1 of two ways, lift the bed or drop the tank partially.

Both are fairly easy, but will require you to be under the truck so get it in a good dry area if you can.

General Tools Needed
3/8 Ratchet
24" Extention
15mm Deep Socket
Ball Peen Hammer
12"+ & 6" Flat Head Screwdriver
1/2" Breaker Bar
Fuel Line Disconnect
Jack Stand
Scissor Jack (from your truck)
Soap, Water, Bucket & Brush

Good to Have, But not Needed
Air compressor
Air Hose
Impact Wrench
1/2" Drive Impact Sockets
24" 1/2" Extension
Blow Gun (canned air can be used for this as well)

Here are link for the fuel line disconnects...
Lisle 37000 - A/C & Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Here's a link to by bed lifting thread so you can see better, I will you pics from that thread to show different things as well with dropping the tank.

http://www.ramforum.com/f76/fuel_pump_replacement_easy_way-78933/

Dropping the Tank With Fuel Still In
We need to disconnect the filler neck from the fender, you'll need a T12 Torx driver and remove the 3 screws from inside the filler door.


Next we can move to the charcoal canister, the 2 clips on the back are depressed to release. You push the bottom from the bottom and the top from the top.


I found it easier to pop the top loose, wedge one of the flat head screwdrivers behind it so when you use the other screwdriver to push the release tab on the bottom the top won't pop back in and lock. Once they're released and the canister can swing free you then wanna move to the front pivot tab (disconnect the harness from the canister) you wanna then get the canister off the tab and this will take some finagling, but she'll come off. You can stick the screwdriver behind the tab and pry it out towards the driveshaft to get it off.


Now we can start with dropping the tank, get your ratchet or impact with the 15mm socket and take the nuts 90% down the studs.

SilverStreak88 said:

Okay - sry, long night last night. We can go about this 1 of two ways, lift the bed or drop the tank partially.



Both are fairly easy, but will require you to be under the truck so get it in a good dry area if you can.



General Tools Needed

3/8 Ratchet

24" Extention

15mm Deep Socket

Ball Peen Hammer

12"+ & 6" Flat Head Screwdriver

1/2" Breaker Bar

Fuel Line Disconnect

Jack Stand

Scissor Jack (from your truck)

Soap, Water, Bucket & Brush



Good to Have, But not Needed

Air compressor

Air Hose

Impact Wrench

1/2" Drive Impact Sockets

24" 1/2" Extension

Blow Gun (canned air can be used for this as well)



Here are link for the fuel line disconnects...

Lisle 37000 - A/C & Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts



Here's a link to by bed lifting thread so you can see better, I will you pics from that thread to show different things as well with dropping the tank.



http://www.ramforum.com/f76/fuel_pump_replacement_easy_way-78933/



Dropping the Tank With Fuel Still In

We need to disconnect the filler neck from the fender, you'll need a T12 Torx driver and remove the 3 screws from inside the filler door.

View attachment 82403



Next we can move to the charcoal canister, the 2 clips on the back are depressed to release. You push the bottom from the bottom and the top from the top.

View attachment 82405



I found it easier to pop the top loose, wedge one of the flat head screwdrivers behind it so when you use the other screwdriver to push the release tab on the bottom the top won't pop back in and lock. Once they're released and the canister can swing free you then wanna move to the front pivot tab (disconnect the harness from the canister) you wanna then get the canister off the tab and this will take some finagling, but she'll come off. You can stick the screwdriver behind the tab and pry it out towards the driveshaft to get it off.

View attachment 82408



Now we can start with dropping the tank, get your ratchet or impact with the 15mm socket and take the nuts 90% down the studs.

View attachment 82412

View attachment 82411

Click to expand...

Amazing write up! Thanks so much for taking the time to do that. This will definitely make this soooo much easier. I feel confident that i can do it myself. A mechanic was charging me 100 to replace the pump and now it will be free. [emoji106]


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MY 2 cents and I am not a wrench :O , I would also add some dry gas to the gas tank! You live in a area like me and moisture in the gas tank can be somewhat normal with that corn fed gas they make now! A small chunk of ice can and will plug a line.. There is no way for sure if it was ice and the older a truck get parts wear out! So IMO abetter to change the pump to be safe.. Also check the vendors on site here you may get the pump cheaper, BUT still add dry gas treatment

Again this is advice from a Old Fart with no mechanical skills :O

Once you get it down it'll just hang out, at this point you wanna do what I didn't do (well, not good enough, remember, learn from my mistakes). Your tank will probably look like this which means it's needs to be spotless.

Scrub the hell out of the whole top of the tank, a course bristle brush works well, get under the retaining ring really good (that's where I messed up and dirt go in my tank). Once it's clean blow it off with the blow gun or canned air to dry the area out so water doesn't go in your fuel.

Now disconnect the harness and fuel line from the pump, unplug the pump and start it a few times so it'll suck the remaining fuel from the line and release the pressure (dowsed in gas ain't fun, remember, learn from my mistakes). You have to release the red safety clip then squeeze and pull it off.

You can pull the fuel line now, that set of disconnectes I linked to are a PIA to use and have to modified to get behind the tank, but I found this gem on YT and wish I found it sooner.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1l346JHi1g

Once everything is disconnected we can drop the tank the rest of the way. Put your jack stand at the front of the tank in front of the front tank strap and place you scissor jack under the rear behind the rear strap and wind it up to the bottom of the tank. Once your're to the tank with some pressure against it you can take the rear nut and strap down (leave the front in place). The straps are another PIA to get off the frame so I just took my pushed backwards towards the driver side of the truck bending it out of the way (this will not hurt it, just use your muscle and push it back in place at the end.) Once it's loose you can start lowering the scissor jack (we're getting all the fuel IE. weight to the back on that jack to make dropping the front easy.) Wind it down until it's level (eyeball it) wth the jack stank. It might want to lean toward the drive shaft, but just work it where it rests against the frame. Once you feel the fuel go to the back then you can take the front nut and and strap off, bend it out of the way and set it on the jack stand. with it even on the front and back you can low you jack on the back till it's about 4 inches off the ground.

Now you can knock the retaining ring off and pull the pump. This is where the big flat head comes in, you'll see the square slots around the ring.

Put the screw driver in like so and know it counter clockwise (make sure that you try keep it even or the ring will bind, a few taps on the front one then a few on the side and so on until it comes loose.


Once off the pump will spring up about an inch or so, lift it out (your pump is slightly different from mine, but you might have the same issue). When you go to pull it out it'll come 3/4 of the way out and then act like it's hung, but you can use the screwdriver and put it between the front of the pump (other side from where the spring rods and float are) and pry it towards the center of the pump and with some wiggling it'll come out. Another "learn from my mistakes" the bowl on the bottom of the pump where all the magic happens will be full of fuel, try your best as it's coming out at an angle to get the float out to get as much fuel back in the tank and don't wear it! Now that the pump is out you can clean the sealing surface for the o-ring. You might work out, but diameter of the o-ring that came with the new pump was bigger than OEM and wouldn't compress enough to get the ring back on so I just cleaned the OEM and put a thin layer of oil on in and all is good.

Now I guess it's easy enough to say that it's just a matter of doing it in reverse, but... there's a few things that need to be payed attention to. When putting the new pump in you should take care in handling the float as in not bend or damage it as it rides along a resistance pad and if it doesn't make full contact your gauge will be inaccurate. It should come zip tied to the pump along with the o-ring, cut those off and remove the o-ring (you can verify if it's going to be too big by comparing to the OEM at this time.) Put your o-ring on and while hold your float in the "up position" as it was in the box a slide into tank (you might to wiggle it again) and sink it to the bottom. If you look on the bottom of your tank from underneath you will see where the pump sits there are 2 circular indention's, these are raised inside the tank and act as centering for the pump to make sure it sits flat on the bottom so just move the pump around until feel it seat. It'll be about an inch above the tank again, put your retaining ring on and press the ring and pump down and use one hand to get it started so you can let go. Take your big screwdriver and the same holes knock it clockwise in same even pattern to make sure it goes smooth ( I know it get's tight and you can only hit from certain angles, but you can get big enough hammer and put it to the backside of that screwdriver and send 'er home. Once it's tight we can raise the tank back up, for this you just repeat, once you bend the straps back up around the tank and the nuts are started and the tank can hang by itself you can lock the fuel line back on and harness. If you have the impact wrench then you'll be glad you did, those tank straps and nuts gotta go all the way back up AND YOU GOT ALL THAT WEIGHT TO LIFT. This can be had either way, but air tools are more fun, use your extension with the 15mm and pull the trigger until it stops. If you don't have one then you can use the scissor jack and raise the all the way on the back and tighten the strap and then repeat on the front . Now that it's back home you can connect the canister harness (this one is short, that's why it's always first and last, connect your filler neck back to the fender and your all done - almost, now just prime it.

Turn ther key to the "ON" position about 5 times and then fire it up, hope this helps, If I goofed on anything and you or other members see it then pitch in and let me know, I'm no mechanic or expert, I just try help with what I know and learn as much I can.

This needs to go in the How Too section.

Thanks man

BlownGP said:

This needs to go in the How Too section.

Thanks man

Click to expand...

I know uh? It's an awesome write up


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