Lifter tick oil additive

Anyone know what exactly it is the dealer puts in the oil to quiet this down? Thanks!

Nobody is chiming in?

Did they use something, and did it work for you? What lifters need is something that is soluble in oil that stays behind when the oil isn't present. Molybdenum is a metal that in proper form acts like graphite or similar, it reduces friction when the oil is not there. Moly is soluble in alkaline and less soluble in acid, so it is perfect in your engine because if you have acid in your engine you are already in big trouble anyhow. The second main purpose of an oil behind lubrication is using it's additives to keep acid low, or alkaline high however you look at it. Lifters are dry at start, so having a coating of Moly there is very helpful. I used Redline oil and it has erased my lifter tick for the last 6 months or so. Among other traits of redline is it was the highest Moly content at the time I was researching oils. It has about ten times the Moly of Amsoil or Mobil One. I know this didn't answer your question, but I hope it helped. google moly basics and you will see how your lifters will benefit from having something like that in your oil.

Lucas oil additive. It comes out like molasses but it works its way into everything. We use it at toyota and have nothing but good luck

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I thought about using the Lucas stuff because I used it in my Toyota as well. I am just wondering if it would fool with the MDS system. I know we can only run 5w-20 or else it will mess with it...

Burla said:

Nobody is chiming in?

Did they use something, and did it work for you? What lifters need is something that is soluble in oil that stays behind when the oil isn't present. Molybdenum is a metal that in proper form acts like graphite or similar, it reduces friction when the oil is not there. Moly is soluble in alkaline and less soluble in acid, so it is perfect in your engine because if you have acid in your engine you are already in big trouble anyhow. The second main purpose of an oil behind lubrication is using it's additives to keep acid low, or alkaline high however you look at it. Lifters are dry at start, so having a coating of Moly there is very helpful. I used Redline oil and it has erased my lifter tick for the last 6 months or so. Among other traits of redline is it was the highest Moly content at the time I was researching oils. It has about ten times the Moly of Amsoil or Mobil One. I know this didn't answer your question, but I hope it helped. google moly basics and you will see how your lifters will benefit from having something like that in your oil.

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The dealer put some additive in to quiet my Hemi tick but I never asked what it was. It seems to have worked fairly well. What do ya think about Liqi Moly additive? Thanks!

I used Lubro Moly Mos2, I think that is what you are talking about, and I was pleased at first but developed a weird sound and changed the oil immediately and the sound was gone. To keep it 100% real, I'm not sure if the sound was bad for my engine or not, there was no ticking or knocking, just kind of like a swishing sound. I used the entire 300ml can, and I think that is close to the correct dosing because it says 50ml per .26 gallon. I know the guys on BITOG are very happy with it and I know the Moly content is near 5000PPM and will boost your Moly level in your oil. The only thing I don't know is what type of Moly they use and how soluble it is in the form they have it. It is ignorance on my part, and if I found that to be the right form of Moly I would support that additive 100%. I'd do some more research on that and post the question on BITOG. I'm kinda curious now that you mention that so I will see if I can't dig anything up on that. Might be a real good option for guys running Royal Purple since they took the Moly out of their latest formula.

I would say if you added this to regular oil you would be missing the other positive effects of synthetic based oil, but would gain a healthy Moly level. Kind of a compromise if you were on a budget. Putting budget concerns aside, I don't think an oil like Redline or Motul would benefit from any additive, they are already perfect. The only reason I pick Redline is it is way cheaper. Redline is American and Motul is French, I think the French have way too many taxes and stuff to compete with a US company that makes the same product.

I think I'm going to run Motul 8100 in my G8 in the future. It gets rave reviews and I've seen it matched up against RP in HP/TQ wars and it wins.

apepe0738 said:

I thought about using the Lucas stuff because I used it in my Toyota as well. I am just wondering if it would fool with the MDS system. I know we can only run 5w-20 or else it will mess with it...

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The last shop i worked at we used to use it on the earlier mds hemis with lifter noise and never had a problem

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Chewy said:

I think I'm going to run Motul 8100 in my G8 in the future. It gets rave reviews and I've seen it matched up against RP in HP/TQ wars and it wins.

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It is as good as it gets. I'm not sure that lineup comes in 5w20 so you can't run it in your ram but I'm sure they make it for your G8.

RP 5W20 solved the tick for me. Burla....please be nice : )

Might want to consider an oil filter with an anti drain back valve too.

Nice? Hold on let me look that up in the dictionary, I have no familiarity with this term.

RP is quality oil, I've never said different. Maybe not my top choice, but quality oil that is head and shoulders above 80% of the oil on the market. I still run it in my wife's car and will continue to do so.

More importantly why I run a different oil in my truck is because of the viscosity changes with group 2 or 3 oil. our Hemi's are monsters putting out a bunch of HP, and on long trips the top tier synthetic oils do not change viscosity the same as the other oils. It would be less of an issue if Dodge used a thicker oil, but since they make us run 5w20, you should consider putting an oil that will protect your truck in long runs at hotter temps. My wife has a 4 banger with no lifter issues at all, RP is a fine choice for that vehicle, just sayin

Would ya think Amsoil needs any moly additive?

I do not, I think amsoil is redline's equal and if I wasn't running redline I would be running Amsoil signature. Moly level is Amsoil is about the same as Mobil One, it is respectable and has a better TBN then redline, meaning other additives are helping that product besides Moly. A lot of "ifs" but if I was running Amsoil and "if" a tick happened then I would probably give lubro moly another shot but maybe a lower dose then I used first time.*** ignore this see Molakule's statement below about lubro moly.*** I also would only use Amsoil signature series, their DOMINATOR race oil is not very impressive. Most oil companies use their best possible formulation for racing, but the VOA's on Amsoil's racing oil look similar to dyno oil IMO.

YOU CAN TEST MOLY TO SEE IF IT WOULD BE BENEFICIAL, take whatever moly additive you are considering, and put a teaspoon in the bottom of a quart of oil with a little oil left in it. Shake it around and poor it into a white bowl that allows you to see through the oil. If there are insolubles you will see them or feel them like sand. If you see anything, don't use it you do not want that in your engine. Your additive should mix good with oil and even if it changes color that is ok, but insolubles are not. Eventhough redline is 900ppm Moly, there is never any insolubles left in the bottom of their quarts, and it is very easy to see because they are white and the oil is near clear.

Edit, looked it up for ya. This from a guy that knows more about oil then anyone I know. From Molakule on BITOG,

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"There is colloidal moly M0S2 which is moly powder suspended in an oil carrier and then there is Moly DTC or Moly DibutylDTC often called, "soluble moly." The latter is the only moly form now used in modern PCMO's (Passenger Car Motor Oil) and gear lubricants.

Most lubricant manufacturers have abandoned colloidal moly M0S2, so you don't know what you're getting when you purchase something like Lubromoly. I suspect they are using left over supplies of powdered moly."

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Back to question, I wouldn't mess with Amsoil or redline at all, if you have a problem after using those 5w20 oils, your problem isn't oil related.