Identifying parts

nerak · Feb 20, 2016

Hey all! Complete newbie to trucks. I've been trying to learn more vehicle stuff so I'm not the dumb female who gets talked into **** I don't need. Unfortunately I still need some help with the ID of some things. I was poking around under my 2008 1500 SXT to see what I already have and what I can do for bigger tires. Saw a couple things that were kinda iffy, link: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

The one looks like rubbing, what exactly would cause this? And the second looks like some rubber that is dry rotting, what exactly is that? Hoping to get maybe get adjustable 5100s and like I said bigger tires, but looks like I may need to do some maintenance first.

Thanks for any input!

Rustycowl69 · Feb 20, 2016

"rubbing" looks like the caliper bracket is hitting the steering knuckle at full lock. You are correct that looks like "dry rot". It looks like the joint has not been greased, either. That's to be expected if the joint has no Zerk fitting, they're supposedly greased for life, whatever that means. Congrats on actually crawling under your rig and surveying the condition. A lot of people, some even on this forum, can't be bothered, and then rant like you wouldn't believe when something wears out, or Gawd forbid, breaks.

nerak · Feb 20, 2016

Is there something that would keep the caliper bracket from hitting the steering knuckle at full lock? Why would this be happening? Also, boo on the lack of grease. I may have to bring this in to a shop for some help. And thanks! I try to do a lot of things myself if I can, I came from a 2014 Ford Focus ST so I enjoyed installing my own mods, but I never got around to the suspension.

Speaking of, the reason I posted this in the lifted section was because I had a lifted question. Originally posted from my phone while in the garage under the truck so I guess I forgot. So she's an '08 1500 SXT, the Bilsteins installed are 5100 24-185783 and to be honest I forgot to check if there were blocks or anything else. It's sits nicely level, so maybe 2" from stock? The Bilsteins are the non-adjustable from what I see via the P/N online. So here's the question: If I were to get the adjustable 5100s would I be able to run a 35x12.5R17 without any other lift items? I'm not sure at what point the tire rub would become an issue, or I could just go with a 305/70R17. As a note, the wheels (I didn't buy them) seem like a 17x9 from the half-assed measuring I did.

usaf2006 · Feb 20, 2016

nerak said:
Is there something that would keep the caliper bracket from hitting the steering knuckle at full lock? Why would this be happening? Also, boo on the lack of grease. I may have to bring this in to a shop for some help. And thanks! I try to do a lot of things myself if I can, I came from a 2014 Ford Focus ST so I enjoyed installing my own mods, but I never got around to the suspension.

Speaking of, the reason I posted this in the lifted section was because I had a lifted question. Originally posted from my phone while in the garage under the truck so I guess I forgot. So she's an '08 1500 SXT, the Bilsteins installed are 5100 24-185783 and to be honest I forgot to check if there were blocks or anything else. It's sits nicely level, so maybe 2" from stock? The Bilsteins are the non-adjustable from what I see via the P/N online. So here's the question: If I were to get the adjustable 5100s would I be able to run a 35x12.5R17 without any other lift items? I'm not sure at what point the tire rub would become an issue, or I could just go with a 305/70R17. As a note, the wheels (I didn't buy them) seem like a 17x9 from the half-assed measuring I did.

Post up some pics of the rims on here if you can. Could help with us IDing if you may need spacers or not. If your truck is 4x4, you can fit 35/12.5s with a 2" level if you have proper backspacing on the rim. (space between the center lug section of the rim and the back of the rim) I've seen some claim (most recent was an 05) that with a 2" level he got some 35/12.5/17s to fit with pretty much no rubbing. The main rubbing you should be concerned about is the sidewall of the tire hitting the upper control arm where the upper ball joint is, and possibly the spindle/knuckle. If you're 2wd, you should need a 3" level and appropriately backspaced rims to run 35s.

Glad to see you're taking initiative!

Oh btw, my truck has that same rub spot... but IDK why it does that, or how to prevent it haha.

nerak · Feb 21, 2016

usaf2006 said:
Post up some pics of the rims on here if you can. Could help with us IDing if you may need spacers or not. If your truck is 4x4, you can fit 35/12.5s with a 2" level if you have proper backspacing on the rim. (space between the center lug section of the rim and the back of the rim) I've seen some claim (most recent was an 05) that with a 2" level he got some 35/12.5/17s to fit with pretty much no rubbing. The main rubbing you should be concerned about is the sidewall of the tire hitting the upper control arm where the upper ball joint is, and possibly the spindle/knuckle. If you're 2wd, you should need a 3" level and appropriately backspaced rims to run 35s.

Glad to see you're taking initiative!

Oh btw, my truck has that same rub spot... but IDK why it does that, or how to prevent it haha.

lol that freakin rub spot is just a pain in the ass for other folks too.

Here's some wheel shots from inside and out. They look like the Discount Tire cheapos. When I measured with a tape it looked pretty close to 17x9.5, so it's probably officially 17x9 because I don't know where they take the true measurements.

She is indeed 4x4, but the 4x4 seems to have some issues when engaged (another topic for another forum section I suppose). I may just run the 295s or 305s to not look too stuffed like a can of biscuits exploded. I like being able to get it in the garage otherwise I'd just say heck with it and lift her higher.

Rustycowl69 · Feb 21, 2016

you know, I think my old 76 power wagon had special bolts with a rounded dome-like head to bump against like a turning stop. I know I've seen it somewhere.

usaf2006 · Feb 21, 2016

I love the stuffed look. I want to do a level and maybe a 1.5" body lift and cram 37"s with fender trimming if necessary or 35s if I can't afford 37s. Your cv angle looks a little harsh with the level which is common and is probably causing vibration when in 4wd. Bigger tires will reduce some of that angle when you get them installed.

nerak · Feb 21, 2016

Do you think 1/4" spacers will be necessary?

usaf2006 · Feb 21, 2016

Well, from what I've measured, with the 17's you'd need almost a 1" spacer to help clear the 35/12.5s. It's basically a shot in the dark until you have the tires mounted on the rims. Each tire has different fancy sidewalls, so some stick out farther than others. I was looking at my truck tonight, and I may put a level on it after I put new bushings in my LCAs, and wait to save money for 37s. For those, I'll need to get some offset rims, which will probably be cheap black steel rims as I'm not a fancy guy. Probably will throw my stock center caps on the black rims to class it up a bit lol.

So, to sum it up, I think it depends on the tire if you'll need a spacer or not. It probably wouldn't hurt to measure your rims backspacing to see what they're at. If it's 4.5" you're okay for 12.5" wide tires. Just google "rim backspacing" and go to images to see how they measure it, and it'll be simple to measure your rims to find out. Throw some pics of the truck up when you can, if the tires stick past the fenders at all you probably have less backspacing than stock.

Identifying parts

nerak

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Rustycowl69

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nerak

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usaf2006

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nerak

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Rustycowl69

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usaf2006

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nerak

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usaf2006

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