Broken intake manifold bolt causing coolant leak

Okay, I had a coolant leak, front passenger side. I thoroughly dried area one evening then started my truck the next day with mirrors and flashlight on hand. Truck started to leak at timing cover to block on passenger side. While apart I noticed timing chain/gears excessively worn.

With help of forum members, especially PCA4208, I was able to correctly replace timing chain and gears (I was only going to replace timing cover gasket). While apart I replaced water pump and thermostat (stuck half open) and water outlet.

While reassembling I rested my hand on front passenger side of intake manifold. To my dismay the bolt head was loose. I guess when at operating temperature coolant is leaking from there as well, I just didn't catch it. So after all the work to replace the blown timing cover gasket and related fixes I have to remove the intake manifold and somehow remedy this problem.

I really appreciate suggestions on best way to fix this. I have broken easy outs in the past, nightmare, so am asking for help. I know I have to replace the intake bolts, at least it says recommended with gasket set. Since 1 is already broken and rusted I will replace them. I hope no more break, 1/4 turn at a time (Haynes) and penetrating oil.

So anyone with any suggestions on removing and reinstalling intake manifold and/or best way to handle broken bolt I would really appreciate it as well as anyone else that has encountered this problem. Thank you.

Has anyone left fuel rails on manifold and removed? Seems if I just disconnect injectors I can access intake manifold bolts. Since so many connections I'd like to remove intake manifold disconnecting only what's absolutely necessary. I can't afford to pay a shop or dealership for this and am confident, just need some advice. I have fuel pressure relief valve. Did that but wouldn't be easier to disconnect main fuel line than remove both fuel rails? Thank you.

Can you post pics of what you're dealing with?

And I think the rails need to come off for clearance reasons.

hey Mr. Baseball there is a thread on here for the plenum gasket fix - all the information that you need on how to get the intake off step by step is on there. While you have your intake off I would triple check your plenum gasket, since your this far into it, it might be the most opportune time to get at it with the Hughs kit. hope this helps - cheers

Thanks both of you. I don't know how to do pictures yet but I'll figure it out. So yes I will post pics. Also I did find the step by step diy and saved it, thank you. I'm trying to avoid disconnecting certain things unless absolutely necessary (fuel rails very rusted). Living by the ocean here in Jersey Pinelands has really rusted parts. That broken intake bolt was held in by rust. I am on fixed income, I checked out the Hughs 3/16" plenum but out of my price range, think was $115. If you think it's worth it i'll wait and get it. Tomorrow I'm going to get everything clean as I can then take pictures and post. I really appreciate your help.

I'm worried about more bolts breaking but have no choice. I am a Felpro guy but for money reasons am looking at the Dorman OE gasket set with bolts for $49.99. Any thoughts on that choice? I am not hardcore off roader and truck is stock except for front coil spacer leveling kit and all-terrains, think 265/75-16, anyway almost 32". Enough for me and my sons to get to hunting and fishing spots.

Thanks again. Couldn't work on it today. First thing is carefully removing intake then deciding best way to handle broken bolt. I really appreciate the help and advice.

one think i can say is don't use one of those bolt extractors. they will most likely break and cause you an even bigger headache. you really want to use reverse drill bits. now your going to have to take the intake off to see how bad things are. i think usually there is a rust build up around the bolt were is broke. some times you can chisel away the rust, hit it with some penetrating oil and twist the bolt out with some locking pliers.

Thank you. Yeah I've broken more than one extractor and I definitely don't want to do that here. If not enough bolt to grab or shape for a tool I'm thinking drill (undersize) and left hand tap it and try left threaded bolt. If that breaks at least i can redrill it. Seems extractors put too much outward force. Other than penetrating oil can I add some heat? It is very front passenger side. But like you said I have to get intake off and see what's up. Don't know if Helicoil would work in this area.

I'm going to order new gaskets and bolts and start on it today. I will take pictures before, during, and after. Probably have some questions during procedure. Thank you.

you can put heat to it. that would not hurt. if it came down to it i think a heli coil would work because there is so little torque holding the intake down. i think it is only 72in-lbs of torque holding it down.

Thanks. You're right, torque is low, was just trying to find the step by step I got saved to print it out. Think I have FSM for 2001 saved somewhere. Don't know how much difference. I have a Haynes too. Wish me luck. I know I'll be having questions.

Might not help but I had this happen several years ago on an olds 305 & a similar issue on an amc 360. Even after soaking for days with industrial castrol penetrating oil & hitting it with a hammer they wouldn't budge. Covered the valley with shop towels then ground a flat spot as close to center on the broken bolt. Used a center punch (automatic spring loaded one from H.F. has served me well for many years at work) drilled a l. h. pilot hole & kept moving up to next size. After about the 3rd. or 4th size the bolt spun out with the bit. The l. h. bits will cost but well worth it. Good luck!

Thank you. When I get there I'll try. I spent last few hours disconnecting everything and labeling. Throttle cable bracket bolts (8mm) didn't feel like they wanted to come out even though soaked them couple times. So I removed cables from bracket, no biggy.

I have one more thing to do before manifold bolts and take it off. Fuel rails. One thing says disconnect fuel lines, one says remove rails and set aside. Do the injectors come out with rails or stay in?

Thanks for help. I'll post the pics when figure out how. Just need advice with these rails/injectors. Thanks again.

Edit: just figured out passenger side rail can't be removed with throttle cable bracket attached. Either I just disco main fuel line or remove throttle body (don't want that). Suggestions appreciated.

2nd edit: removed fuel line from rail. Had the tool. Let ya know how it goes.

Time for break. Throttle body has to come off anyway, replacing gasket. Guess I'm getting old and cranky. Intake will be off in morning, cleaning up for today.

After breather and some clean up I went back in and removed intake. Tomorrow is gasket surface clean and organize. Will be couple days before I get gasket/bolt set so I can work on that broken bolt. I'll try to post pics too. Thank you everyone. Not in the clear yet. Almost.

I hope you guys still checking this out. I just learned the intake manifold bolts are TTY (torque to yield). I ordered Dorman gasket kit with bolts but cancelled because felpro gaskets are in stock and then just buy grade 8 bolts from hardware store.

I read if I don't use TTY bolts that grade 5 would be better than 8 and make sure I use loctite. Any suggestions?

Also I want to run a 5/16-18 tap through the bolt holes to clean the threads. Anything I should know before doing that?

Are the plenum bolts TTY? I'm replacing them as well.

Really appreciate help again. TTY or grade 5 or 8? Wouldn't it be good to use at least blue on TTY if get them? I just want to do it right.

Today working on that broken bolt and cleaning. Want to get parts too but not sure about using non-TTY bolts. Honestly, wasn't aware of TTY bolts til today. Thanks

Hope I didn't lose everyone. It's been raining 3 days straight and truck is in driveway. I did remove fuel rails and injectors and throttle body from manifold. Cleaned everything and got new injector o-rings and new TB gasket. Replaced plenum gasket too.

I went ahead and bought the felpro intake bolt set for $32.99. Sealant or thread locker on bolts?

Any suggestions on rtv or sealant for intake gaskets? I read it's difficult using the rubber front and rear gaskets. Some say to use a gasket maker instead. I really appreciate advice. Haynes says adhesive sealant on them and rtv in corners. I don't know what is best for leak free job. Thanks for help in advance.

I'm going to follow up in case someone is in same situation.

I was able to remove the broken intake manifold bolt. There was enough bolt, after removing manifold, for me to tap a 12 point 1/4" socket onto the bolt and simply remove it with ratchet. I did soak it for few days though.

When I removed the intake manifold bolts the corners were stubborn, especially front driver side. I didn't even realize until chasing the threads that I broke about a quarter inch of the bolt off in the head. For this I used ramman54 way. I was able to strike the center with a punch and started drilling through with small to progressively larger bits. when nearing bolt diameter I carefully used the square style extractor and removed the broken bolt. It was broken off about 2 or 3 threads below the surface. Thank you ramman54.

Any suggestions on gasket sealers/rtv for install?

Also thank you PCA4208 for trans fluid/acetone mix recipe for soaking broken bolt.

Never mind about the PM I just saw you got it out. Good job!

Thanks. Couldn't have done it without your help. Still need advice on reassembly. Thanks for helping me get through this. My plenum was filled with oil. Cleaned and new gasket, couldn't afford Hugh's plenum but looking for suggestions on install. Thank you.

It should go back together as easy as it came apart. Or didn't in your case haha. You should be fine though. Reassembly is easy as you marked everything.

Broken bolt

picture of bolt with intake off

picture of bolt with 1/4" socket gently tapped on and removed

picture of bolt removed with extractor