5.9 Build. Need input

Got 1996 engine out was goin to replace intake w M1 and Holley 52 TB Gibson headers and goin to build custom y-pipe and exhaust stainless. Also thinkin of doin MSD 6al Bic coil and 8.5 wires cold air kit then wen all back togsther get hemi fever tune Should I do anything else? Or change my set up ? Wats the part numbers to do roller rocker conversion. Thanks apercitate the help.

Yeah the rocker conversion is definately a good idea, I would consider a cam as well if you have the budget for it. Possibly consider aftermarket heads also.


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Another for the Harland Sharp 1.7s.

Got part #s on rockers cam heads that think will b good ?? Thanks


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I believe these are the correct ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s7307/overview/make/dodge

Ok cool. What's the proper way to adjust them ??

Should be the nonadjustable ones I linked you. lol

Those are the adjustable ones.

These are nonadjustable: Harland Sharp S70037

BBartow said:

Those are the adjustable ones.

These are nonadjustable: Harland Sharp S70037

Click to expand...

FAHK.

I hit the wrong ones.

Good job savin' me.

Ok thanks. Set them with prelaod ? Or zero lash. I've done chevy motors not a mopar

Forget the Chevy **** here lol, no lash just bolt them down and you are done. I prefer to bring each jug up to tdc then install the rr's for that jug, this way there is no stress as both valves are closed. Now if you happen to have a set of Chevy 3/8ths rr's you can just get the stud conversion kit and away you go with ADJUSTABLE rr's. Me I would never waste my cash on non-adjustable rr's. If you do go adjustable 1 turn for lash same as a Chevy.

I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure you don't have to worry about any of that on the non-adjustable ones. Its just a simple bolt-on.

Hopefully someone will chime in.

EDIT: Nevermind Merc got you.

Ok fellas sounds easy Thanks

So have you done a comp test? Read the plenum sticky thread yet? I suggest you do before you tear into this motor.

Compression is good motor ran strong it's already out and intake and stuff torn off. Was goin to do the M1 intake What's a good camshaft with stock heads ?

Basic Bolt-On Setup
M-1 2bbl Intake manifold
52mm F&B throttle body
1.7 non adjustable roller rockers (only if no cam upgrade)
Autolite 3923s
MSD 6A or 6AL w/ Blaster SS coil
Spintech headers (mid length headers)
2.5" dual exhaust or 3" single.
Double Roller Timing Chain with tensioner
180 Termostat
Delete clutch fan install electric fan

Heads/Cam Street setup (Sean, aka hemifever, already has a tune if you use this setup)
55mm F&B Throttle Body
M-1 Intake manifold 4bbl with adapter
Comp Cam 218/224 .561/.569 113 LSA
1.7 Crower Adjustable Rockers
RHS Indy-X 360 2.02 Heads
.600 Mopar Valve Springs
Mopar Hydraulic Lifters
Spintech Headers
3" True Dual SS Exhaust
MSD 6A Ignition Box
MSD SS Blaster Coil
Firecore 50s
Autolite 3923s
180 Thermostat
High Flow Water Pump
Mopar Double Roller Timing Chain
Mopar Valve Covers with APS Baffles
Mopar Open Element Air Hat
Jeep GC Electric Fan
Deleted Clutch Fan

The 1st setup was on my 2000 5.9L and it was a decent build, very streetable and reliable until it burnt down.

The 2nd setup produced significant power gains due to the cam and head swap, was still very streetable after I got the tune dialed in, it lasted for awhile until I dropped a valve and nuked a piston and took out the motor.

Now I'm on my 3rd or 4th build and said **** it, and went full forged 6.7L stroker, but I doubt you want to drop that much coin.

1st 2 options are not that bad if you find the parts used, which are always popping up on dakotart.com and dakota-durango.com. That's how I got most of my parts.




PS: you can use this chart to set valve lash to zero if you don't want to figure out TDC on 8 pistons, or do what the other guy said and bring each piston to top dead center on the COMPRESSION STROKE! Both valves will be closed, and then adjust valve lash.

Coming rule many people follow is set lash to zero and then turn 1/4-1/2 a turn. Since we use hydraulic lifters, they do bleed down, so you will be able to push the rods down a little, but don't do that. Slightly move the pushrod, up and down until it does not move up and down anymore, do not exhibit extra force to try and make it move up or down. Once the lifters are primed and pumped up they won't move much.

Bigred121787 said:

Compression is good motor ran strong it's already out and intake and stuff torn off. Was goin to do the M1 intake What's a good camshaft with stock heads ?

Click to expand...

This is for a full size 4wd 5000 lbs truck right not a little 2wd drag racing rig? Stay under .480 lift look for whats called a RV cam, to most I suggest the Crane cams see spec's below. Also stay with the M1 2bbl mpi not the 4bbl.

Manufacturer's Part Number 704121
Part Type Camshafts

Cam Style Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 1,500-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 204
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 208
Duration at 050 inch Lift 204 int./208 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 264
Advertised Duration 260 int./264 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.458 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.467 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.458 int./0.467 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 114
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number 2030
CARB EO Number D-225-47 (pdf)
To see a list of qualifying vehicles, enter CARB EO Number D-225-47

Valve Springs Required Yes
Quantity Sold individually.

Thanks good information kinda goin for the 1st upgrade u got goin on ther. Was goin to build a custom y-pipe 2.5 or 2.75 2into1 slip fit collector to 3in to borla muffler 2.5 dual out in front of the wheels Was goin to replace old worn timing chain since its out and hopfully tranny lives lol.

Merc225hp said:

This is for a full size 4wd 5000 lbs truck right not a little 2wd drag racing rig? Stay under .480 lift look for whats called a RV cam, to most I suggest the Crane cams see spec's below. Also stay with the M1 2bbl mpi not the 4bbl.

Click to expand...

Out of curiosity, why stay under .480 lift when stock lift is .410. The difference would be =<.08 lift (at max), you can clearly get away with WAY more lift and still not have issues with clearance.

2bbl is restrictive, get a 4bbl and run a turtle, the minor loss in torque will make up in higher band HP, the 5.9s are already torque beasts with 345TQ over the 250 hp it makes, not to mention the gains from the mods.

Whether it's a 2wd or 4wd, the general idea is to get as much air through the motor as possible to create more power, correct? Why limit your power, and future power with a 2bbl?

4x4 standard cab long bed 35in tired evetually 37 w lager gears. So that tv cam has to hav valve springs replaced ? And will the Harland sharp 1.7 rockers work with this cam? Sorry for the questions trying to figure this out to order the parts