Cam???

jsq789 · Sep 10, 2013

My truck description is in my sig, I was wondering if there was a good cam out there I could put in my truck to give it that sexy rumble. Also is there anything else I would have to change if I swapped cams? I'm new to engine work. Just got the suspension stuff done. Thanks in advance for replies!!!

Merc225hp · Sep 11, 2013

Well before I get into this suggesting cams and other parts, I think it would be a good idea to do a comp and or a leakdown test. Lets make sure you have a good motor to start with before putting all kinds of money into it. Has the plenum gasket been fixed yet? Are you ready to get a tuner or a Mopar Performance pcm? The stock valve spring in a magnum motor max lift is .480.

jsq789 · Sep 11, 2013

Merc225hp said:
Well before I get into this suggesting cams and other parts, I think it would be a good idea to do a comp and or a leakdown test. Lets make sure you have a good motor to start with before putting all kinds of money into it. Has the plenum gasket been fixed yet? Are you ready to get a tuner or a Mopar Performance pcm? The stock valve spring in a magnum motor max lift is .480.

well like I said I'm new to engine stuff, if you're willing to spend some time helping me out it would be greatly appreciated. I've looked for programmers but they all seem to be 1998-newer. And I've never messed with the plenum. I didn't know there was anything wrong with mine

dodge dude94 · Sep 11, 2013

The only tuner what would work with a 97 would be an SCT by Hemifever, however, those tuners are no longer in production since the x3 version of the SCT 9550 will be coming out next year.

As for your plenum, chances are it's blown or questionable. As Merc said, do a compression and leak down test.

Semi-off topic: how is your exhaust setup? I see you have 3" duals. Is that from the cat back or the muffler back? Either way, 3" is too big for duals, and way too big for a stock truck. You're looking at 2.25" or 2.5" duals depending on where they separate.

03MopaRamman · Sep 11, 2013

I admire you Guys desire to get more out of the 5.9 Magnum and no doubt they Can Produce HP. Kinda Like me Ol hemi Trying to keep one fender ahead of the VVT's with each little Mod I do. This has the Potential to be an awesome Performance Mopar Thread. Danny

jsq789 · Sep 11, 2013

dodge dude94 said:
The only tuner what would work with a 97 would be an SCT by Hemifever, however, those tuners are no longer in production since the x3 version of the SCT 9550 will be coming out next year.

As for your plenum, chances are it's blown or questionable. As Merc said, do a compression and leak down test.

Semi-off topic: how is your exhaust setup? I see you have 3" duals. Is that from the cat back or the muffler back? Either way, 3" is too big for duals, and way too big for a stock truck. You're looking at 2.25" or 2.5" duals depending on where they separate.

It's a single 3" to the muffler and 2 1/4 duals after. And where could I find one of these programmers? Thanks

Merc225hp · Sep 12, 2013

Ok thanks for responding.

Do you have a comp tester? If not they can be bought for around $30. Once you have one then we can do the test. Do you have tools? tq wrench? I will suggest you download the fsm for your year truck here on RF and start reading the area's in which we will be working, intake, timing chain, and cam removal/install. This will only help in every way when working on your motor.

I hate to ask but have you set a budget for this yet? A cam will run $400, lifters $120, full gasket set $140, timing set $60, water pump $60, other odds and ends say $200.

jsq789 · Sep 12, 2013

Merc225hp said:
Ok thanks for responding.

Do you have a comp tester? If not they can be bought for around $30. Once you have one then we can do the test. Do you have tools? tq wrench? I will suggest you download the fsm for your year truck here on RF and start reading the area's in which we will be working, intake, timing chain, and cam removal/install. This will only help in every way when working on your motor.

I hate to ask but have you set a budget for this yet? A cam will run $400, lifters $120, full gasket set $140, timing set $60, water pump $60, other odds and ends say $200.

I have or my friends have every tool you could possibly need, and I only take out so much from each paycheck for the truck. (Lol). The budget is just whatever it takes. So the cam itself might take a few weeks but I can start buying up the other stuff. What kind of tester were you saying I will need?
Thanks again, Jsq789

Merc225hp · Sep 13, 2013

^^ Busy today but I will get back to this thread soon. Do a search for compression tester for the tool and on how to do the test.

jsq789 · Sep 13, 2013

Will do

aofarrell2 · Sep 14, 2013

dodge dude94 said:
The only tuner what would work with a 97 would be an SCT by Hemifever, however, those tuners are no longer in production since the x3 version of the SCT 9550 will be coming out next year.

As for your plenum, chances are it's blown or questionable. As Merc said, do a compression and leak down test.

Semi-off topic: how is your exhaust setup? I see you have 3" duals. Is that from the cat back or the muffler back? Either way, 3" is too big for duals, and way too big for a stock truck. You're looking at 2.25" or 2.5" duals depending on where they separate.

SCT was the only way to tune them, but HPTuners.com is releasing their tuner soon, and it will work on 1997 and most 1996 trucks as it works on the JTEC and NG series PCMs, just FYI

jsq789 · Sep 14, 2013

Ok I got the compression tester. What's the best way of doing this?

Merc225hp · Sep 14, 2013

Ok good

Bring the motor up to opt temp (ya it sucks but this is a must do), label all the spark plug leads, drivers side is from front to back 1-3-5-7, pass side is 2-4-6-8, then remove them from the spark-plugs and put to the side. Next vac or blow out all the spark-plug holes, then remove the spark-plugs, then unplug the ignition coil 12 volt power cord at the coil, then remove the fuel pump relay found in the PDB, set the gas pedal to WOT, screw in the comp tester into #1 spark plug hole, turn the motor over three times, go and record your reading, move onto the next cyld and repeat for the rest of the cylds. Post back your results then we will see if a wet test is in order, if you feel like doing the wet test now add about a teaspoon of oil to each cyld then do the comp test as above. The wet test must be done after the dry test or the reading will be off.

Take your time and above all be safe.

jsq789 · Sep 14, 2013

Merc225hp said:
Ok good

Bring the motor up to opt temp (ya it sucks but this is a must do), label all the spark plug leads, drivers side is from front to back 1-3-5-7, pass side is 2-4-6-8, then remove them from the spark-plugs and put to the side. Next vac or blow out all the spark-plug holes, then remove the spark-plugs, then unplug the ignition coil 12 volt power cord at the coil, then remove the fuel pump relay found in the PDB, set the gas pedal to WOT, screw in the comp tester into #1 spark plug hole, turn the motor over three times, go and record your reading, move onto the next cyld and repeat for the rest of the cylds. Post back your results then we will see if a wet test is in order, if you feel like doing the wet test now add about a teaspoon of oil to each cyld then do the comp test as above. The wet test must be done after the dry test or the reading will be off.

Take your time and above all be safe.

There are 2 things in that box related to the fuel pump, do I pull them both?

Merc225hp · Sep 14, 2013

To be safe yes take both out.

jsq789 · Sep 15, 2013

Ok.
Drivers side
1. 120
3. 80
5. 80
7. 70

Passenger side
2. 115
4. 120
6. 120
8. 120

Each number was taken after 3 turns.

Each cylinder reached 120 if I cranked it enough times. Some took longer than others.

Merc225hp · Sep 15, 2013

jsq789 said:
Ok.
Drivers side
1. 120
3. 80
5. 80
7. 70

Passenger side
2. 115
4. 120
6. 120
8. 120

Each number was taken after 3 turns.

Each cylinder reached 120 if I cranked it enough times. Some took longer than others.

Oh F this is not good at all they all should be from 160-165 give or take a little bit. So I have to ask your confident in your test procedure?

Going by those numbers it's time for a rebuild or time to build a new motor while running this one in the truck until the new motor is ready. This will not be cheap by any means min $1500 and you do all the work. Or flog the truck get into something else.

This is why I ask people to do this test it would have been a waste of your cash,time to put a cam in this motor.

Edit; how many miles are on this motor any idea? New heads will bump up the numbers, just not to sure how much and I am not one to put new tight heads on a high mileage motor.

jsq789 · Sep 15, 2013

Ah darn, I'll just leave it how it is til she dies. Time for a new truck I guess.. I'll rebuild it some day though I'm not giving up on my first truck. My poor baby lol. Thanks for all the help

Merc225hp · Sep 15, 2013

Not a problem there bud sorry for the new's.

jsq789 · Sep 15, 2013

A mechanically inclined friend told me it'll be alright to go ahead with the build and fix those issues later. Can we continue on with what to do next?

Cam???

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