radiator removal and de-oiling - overflow bottle relocate?

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CumminsCrazed

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hey guys, just wondering what the best was to remove the radiator from my truck is and how i should go about degreasing - or should i say deoiling my radiator from all the oil thats come out of overflow bottle and been thrown everywhere by engine fan. Im sure as bad as my radiator is its going to cause an overheat condition at some pint, and id rather it NOT be on the way to Athens IL in 2 wks. Also, whats a good way to relocate that damn bottle to where it still serves its purpose, but doesnt create a mess with the front side of my engine. I will likely do a full coolant flush at the time of this using the old garden hose method.
 

Trupiano

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Ive seen aftermarket bottles, some actually really nice, with sight guages and all. Find a nice out-of-the-way place to mount it, and you shouldn't have to worry about it leaking ever again.
 
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CumminsCrazed

CumminsCrazed

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ok well im gonna tackle this job today, do a full coolant flush on it as well, i think for now, just temporary im gonna use heater hose to relocate the breather tube and just run a hose back behind the engine until i can get a more permanent solution. that SHOULD work in theory anyway. Whats a good degreaser product to use on front of engine and radiator. i already have a gas powered 2600 PSI pressure washer that will be used.
 

WhiteExpress

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Be careful that your pressure washer doesn't bend over the fins! They are amazingly fragile.

A good degreaser should chemical break up the oil, so it'd just need a rinse, not a pressure wash.
 

Mopar1973Man

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ok well im gonna tackle this job today, do a full coolant flush on it as well, i think for now, just temporary im gonna use heater hose to relocate the breather tube and just run a hose back behind the engine until i can get a more permanent solution. that SHOULD work in theory anyway. Whats a good degreaser product to use on front of engine and radiator. i already have a gas powered 2600 PSI pressure washer that will be used.

WARNING! Heater hose relocation is dangerous for the engine. As the gases warm up in the hose it will become flexible and more times out of ten the hose will kink shut and build up pressure till it blows out the crankseals and cam cover gaskets then you stuck dead on the road. I highly advise against this practise being I've warn people about and have them call me back and say "Your right!".
 
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CumminsCrazed

CumminsCrazed

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ok then i will change that asap. what else can i use instead of the PCV as im trying to keep this looking as OEM as possible. im not really big on the idea of having PCV running all around the top end of my engine
 

Mopar1973Man

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Black Iron Pipe of course!

Remember any metal pipe that rubs the injection lines will eventually eat a injection line. Hence why the plastic PVC because it will not damage the injection line if it happens to rub them. I normally paint it black and zip tie to the rear hoist ring.

But knowing you guys here love plastic dipping everything try that on the pipe.

You can use any kind of solid pipe that will not collapse from heat. Bad choices are rubber and vinyl tubing or hose. Copper, steel, PVC, CPVC, etc will not be effected by heat or oil. When vinyl and rubber both will fail.
 

Viper21700

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Do us 12 valvers have this issue? I looked, and where your overflow bottle is, thats where my 710 cap for filling the oil is at.
 

WhiteExpress

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Remember any metal pipe that rubs the injection lines will eventually eat a injection line. Hence why the plastic PVC because it will not damage the injection line if it happens to rub them. I normally paint it black and zip tie to the rear hoist ring.

But knowing you guys here love plastic dipping everything try that on the pipe.

You can use any kind of solid pipe that will not collapse from heat. Bad choices are rubber and vinyl tubing or hose. Copper, steel, PVC, CPVC, etc will not be effected by heat or oil. When vinyl and rubber both will fail.

They do make "multi-duty" hose that is rated for like 500° fuel/oil safe. But it's $7 a foot or so. Oh, and it's bright red.
 

Mopar1973Man

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Do us 12 valvers have this issue? I looked, and where your overflow bottle is, thats where my 710 cap for filling the oil is at.

No because your vent hose is short and pointed straight down from the cam cover on the back of the enging its like 12-16" inches total.

They do make "multi-duty" hose that is rated for like 500° fuel/oil safe. But it's $7 a foot or so. Oh, and it's bright red.

Not availabe here...

what about hydraulic/transmission hose......thats oil safe

With any rubber hose you'll have to check how its going to behave with engine heat, oil and oil vapor. If the rubber starts to become soft it just might kink over. Like on my vent pipe setup I know that my 5 year old hose is now getting mushy (which is only 6" long).
 
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CumminsCrazed

CumminsCrazed

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ok mike, i fixed it this weekend, i crapped out 60 bucks on 6 ft of heavy duty hydraulic hose that is STEEL reinforced - so much steel they used a saw with a metal blade to cut the hose. it has 3 or 4 layers of steel incorporated in the hose - i cant imagine much will effect this hose.
 

Mopar1973Man

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Now I got to see this being routed... (Covers eyes)
 

Roper

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On my '01 I ran the hose down under the engine and ended it by the bell housing. On the end of the hose I just put a sock, yes the kind you put on your feet, over the end of the hose and zip tied it there. The sock wicked up any oil that made it that far, and I just changed the sock every oil change. I guess a rag would work too. It wasn't fancy, but it was free and I had it on there for years like that.
 
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