LOL I like your directness. Honestly happens so dam fast that I don't notice any other symptoms. I'm a fairly decent mechanic for things like axels, belts, pumps, radiators etc.. but car electric is something I know almost nothing about. I don't recall the radio going off and definately no dash lights coming on. That I would have noticed. Hasn't happened at night yet so no headlights to pin point another problem.
Imagine driving down the road and hitting a pothole and you didn't see it coming. Kind of like that. Serious jolt/engine shutoff. Boggles my mind. Never had this problem in any car or truck.
What's the possibility that it could be the tranny jolting? Seriously, it happens that fast that it's hard to pinpoint.
Thanks for responding though.
If its the tranny it will usually happen at specific points, and be relatively reproducible. The tranny is definitely a possibility. However if the dash lights dont come on and the radio doesnt skip a beat, then its not the ignition. I don't know what all the ASD relay powers, i've never pulled mine for kicks. With these trucks the cycle time is really fast, I can be going down the road at speed, throw it in neutral and cycle the key taking even up to a second to put it back to run and it will fire right up without cranking, a quarter second after putting the key in run, its revving its ass off becuase im pressing it to the floor.
In drive I can coast all the way down to 25mph before it refuses to start without cranking.
An abrupt shudder is what i'm guessing you're talking about. That could be a bunch of things, fuel pump not included. The PCM could be damaged, your ignition coil could be on its way out, the tranny could be flipping you the bird.
I would start by checking the basics, coil, relays, connectors; make sure everything is nice and tight, you may try letting the truck idle while tugging on the wires to see if you can make it angry.
The coil should be 1 ohm roughly between the 2 pins and 12-15k between the tower and a pin.
The procedure for checking relays is as follows:
Connect Terminal 30 to battery positive with a 10 or 15 amp fused jumper.
Connect terminal 86 to ground.
Connect any high draw device, such as a headlight to terminal 87.
When the load is connected to 87 and 12v positive is not connected to 85, the load should not light.
Switch the load to terminal 87a, with 12v positive not connected to 85 the load should light.
When terminal 85 is connected to battery positive, the load on terminal 87 should light.
Switching the load to terminal 87a while terminal 85 is connected to the battery should cause the load not to light.
I'm at a little bit of a loss here as this isnt a common issue, or even a very decisive one.
