They definitely will. If it doesn’t say so on the website, it’s because it would never occur to Neil to make a set of sliders that couldn’t be used as a jack point, so he doesn’t need to specify that.
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It’s primary purpose is to keep your hands away from the fairlead or recovery point pinch points when storing the winch line. It’s also easy on the hands for pulling line, but you should be wearing gloves for handling wire rope anyway.
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It’s a truck still under warranty. The trans may still be “learning”. Or it may need a reflash. Try the simple option first before you start thinking about programmers.
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I spool an 80’ synthetic rope. If you need more reach, use extensions and keep it off the drum. Less rope on the drum is easier to handle/manage.
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You’re in a 2010 with an original front track bar? I’d wager a dollar that is shot. They’re wear items, not meant to last for ever.
There’s also a joint in the steering shaft with a rubber bushing in it (inside the dash/steering column). When the rubber breaks down it introduces a lot of play...
If you have to do it solo, try to find a gentle uphill grade to get some tension on the line. If all you have to work with is flat ground, you can lightly set the parking brake. With a partner, they can sit in the driver seat and lightly apply the service brakes.
Painting the wire rope is a...
I don’t have any advice on a Rough Country kit beyond explaining why the same box of parts is called a 6” kit for 2500 and a 4.5” kit for a Power Wagon. A PW rides 1.5” higher than a factory 2500 thanks to taller springs.
The OEM rear track bar is poorly designed. Don’s bar has a bracket that...
The reason I ask is that with the maneuvers and driving surfaces you’re describing, it sounds like normal tire scrub/slip that has to happen when turning in 4WD (even more so when a diff or diffs are locked). Even in 2WD, a sharp enough turn can get the LSD to start trying to work.
If you...
People make “4.5” lifts” for Power Wagons because they’re 6” kits for regular 2500s.
For the 2014+ trucks Thuren only offers 2” and 3” options for the front (0.5” and 1.5” on PWs) and one rear setup that’s dead level with a 3” front, or gives a little rake with a 2” front. I wouldn’t count on...
The front gives people so much “trouble” because the rear has to lock first. Once the rear is locked, two tires have to slip in order to turn, and turning is generally how people are trying to get differential action to the locker. On a high traction surface with the rear locked, it’s difficult...
For lockers:
4LO, under 3mph to engage. Rear has to lock before the front. It’s in your owners manual if you’d care to read it.
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