03 Dodge Ram Hemi Engine Can Hardly Idle

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

If your concerened about the valve being damaged I would pull the head just to have the ease of mind to inspect both the valve and the piston face. Your just about there with the vlave cover off. Only things left would be unplug the main harness at the back of the intake manifold and unbolt that. Unbolt the 2 bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the down pipe. Undo the bolt on the back side of the head for the ground strap. Last should just be unbolting the head and lifting that out with the exhaust still bolted to the head. If it will seal with air the valve is good.

 

[03Blackride]

I removed the driver side exhaust rocker arm and push rods today. Tomorrow I will see if the valve closes with compressed air. If it closes and I don't lose air, then I will know that the valve is still good. I purchased a set of Manley Nex Tek 5.7 valve springs. The part number is: 221430-16. So, I will be replacing all the valve springs. Once I get confirmation that the number 5 cylinder exhaust valve closes, I will fabricate my own valve spring compressor. If the valve does not close, then I will be forced to remove the head. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for you support, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Good to hear Tommy, I know your gonna be glad when its back up and running.

 

[03Blackride]

Good news! I compressed the number 5 cylinder with 85 psi of air. It held the pressure and did not leak. So, this tells me that the valves are good. Still waiting on delivery for the valve springs and seals. Can't wait to get the truck running again. Thank for your support. It is greatly appreciated. Aloha, Tommy.

 

[03Blackride]

Need some help here! I know I have asked this question before, however, I'm not sure if I correctly understand the proper procedure. We are talking about my 5.7 Hemi engine. After I replace all 16 valve springs. I'm now ready to re-istall the rocker arms. Where do I start? Does the engine have to be at it's compression stroke at the number 1 cylinder? Or, can it be at any cylinder, as long as that cylinder is at compression stroke, and the piston is all the way up at tdc? I really need to understand this process correctly, before I damage something. Your support is greatly appreciated. You may email me if you like at: [email protected] Thank you very much, Tommy.

 

[blazintowers]

de ja vu. i just went through this hole process a month ago...glad to see you found the problem. when i put my rocker assembly back together it did not matter what cylinder was at TDC. you just have to make sure all push rods are seated at both ends and start tightening the rail from the center to the outside. going in small steps, so as to tighten each bolt a little at a time untill
you reach specifiec torque. there was a good article that was recommended to me by the good fellas on this site. i will see if i can find it and post. it was on google, Hemi Cam Install by Jared Martin.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Yep it does not matter where the rotating asm is on the reinstall of the rocker shaft

 

[03Blackride]

Yep it does not matter where the rotating asm is on the reinstall of the rocker shaft

So, you are saying that the engine does not have to be at a compression stroke for any cylinder when re-installing the rocker arm shafts. Is that correct? One more question. For instance: If I start replacing the valve springs at cylinder # 1. It has to be on it's compression stroke in order for the intake and exhaust valves to close. So, I replace those two springs. Where should I go from there? If I have to be at compression stroke for each cylinder, I guess it does not matter where I would go next. Since I'm on the driver side, I may as well just continue on with the # 3, 5 and 7 cylinders. If I'm missing something, let me know. Thank you, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Yeah just run down the line, pull a plug on each cylinder to help with compression when using a wrench on the crank bolt to turn it over.

 

[03Blackride]

Yeah just run down the line, pull a plug on each cylinder to help with compression when using a wrench on the crank bolt to turn it over.

Very good info! I decided to fabricate my own valve spring compressor. Here are 3 pictures of it. The 1st picture shows the two mounting bolt holes, the running stud with the compression plate and tightening nut. In the 2nd picture the pink arrows are pointing to the angle that the running stud and spring compression plate are designed at, in relations to the mounting bolt holes. The running stud angle and compression plate was designed to run parallel with the valve stem. This is to keep the spring compression plate in alignment over the retainer as the spring is being compressed. Not sure if the other similar valve spring compressors on the market are deisigned this way. It should do the job. The valve springs should be delivered today. I purchased the Felpro intake & exhaust valve stem seal set part number: SS72914. I hope that no one had any bad experiences with this valve seal set. If so, let me know. Thanks for your info and suppport, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Good fab work there bud.

 

[03Blackride]

Not the best, but good enough to get the job done. I added a 3rd picture at the #70 (permalink). Thank you for your comments and support. Aloha, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

The first 2 pics show off your style on painted nails lol

 

[03Blackride]

I had to get someone to hold the tool for the pictures, my Granddaughter just happen to be there. Lucky me! Thanks for looking. Aloha, Tommy.

 

[03Blackride]

We got the driver side, shown below in the 1st picture, (the hard side) factory valve springs replaced with Manley springs part number: 221430-16. This is the side that the factory exhaust valve spring broke at the number 5 cylinder. I'm so happy that the cylinder held the air, when we replaced that spring. The factory exhaust spring from the number 5 cylinder did snap, shown in the 2nd picture. The Passenger side valve springs should be a little easier to replace. The valve spring compressor tool that I fabricated shown in the 3rd picture works very well. Getting closer. Thanks for your support, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Almost done thats good to hear bud

 

[03Blackride]

Listed under the rocker arm installation instructions they mention to: Ensure that the hold downs and rocker arms are not overlapped when torquing bolts. Not sure I understand what they are talking about. Can anyone clearify this? Thank you, Tommy.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Think they are talking about the rocker arms being filled over during the install, I have seen that happen if your not paying attention. Snug them down alill at a time because its gonne hold pressure different on each one.

 

[03Blackride]

I found this explanation. I now understand what is being said. Thanks for your support, Tommy.

1 - ASSEMBLY TANG 2 - RETAINER ( FULLY SEATED ) 3 - SPACER 4 - ROCKER ARM
CAUTION: Ensure that retainers (2) and rocker arms (4) are not overlapped when torquing bolts.
CAUTION: Verify that pushrod is installed into rocker arm (4) and tappet correctly while installing rocker shaft assembly. Recheck after rocker shaft has been torqued to specification.

 

[KGBIGCOUNTRY]

Yep