2017 ram sport thinking about doing own oil changes..

[Ecofx86]

I currently have 36k miles on my 17 Ram sport 4x4. The dealer i bought the truck from has been doing oils changes. 7500 miles is when i been bring it in to do the oil changes. Every vehicle i had before this one i would change the oil myself. I been searching on the forums reading and reading. Most use 5w30 instead of 5w20? Seems like Red line 5w30 and a royal purple filter is the way to go?

are these links the correct products?

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-15305-5W30-Motor/dp/B004BONVB6



https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple...4302--1&vehicleId=1&vehicleName=2017+Ram+1500


Can i go 7500 miles on this combination?

Any other oil suggestions?

 

[69GWC]

Yeah thats the right stuff, most of the UOA say it will go far further than 7500 miles but you can do one yourself to be safe.
I am going around 8k on mine.

 

[BruceMorgan]

Why?

It hasn't been worth it to me to change my own oil for many years. Too much time and hassle, and the cost saving is minimal. I wouldn't have Jiffy Lube do it, but the dealer isn't that expensive and my wife takes the truck in. So zero hassle to me.

I prepaid oil changes when I bought this truck so it's even less expensive.

 

[Tim Garceau]

$100 and an hour or more of wasted time at the stealership for a full synthetic change.

$40-60 for better oil/filter options and 20 minutes in the comfort of your own garage knowing it was done right, priceless...

Edit-Wife taking care of routine vehicle maintenance, man-card revoked.

 

[RamHondo]

If I don't do oil change my self, it goes to dealership! BUT I bring my oil and filter for them to use.... Cost around $20-30 plus they do tire rotation....

 

[ramsare4real]

I currently have 36k miles on my 17 Ram sport 4x4. The dealer i bought the truck from has been doing oils changes. 7500 miles is when i been bring it in to do the oil changes. Every vehicle i had before this one i would change the oil myself. I been searching on the forums reading and reading. Most use 5w30 instead of 5w20? Seems like Red line 5w30 and a royal purple filter is the way to go?

are these links the correct products?

https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-15305-5W30-Motor/dp/B004BONVB6



https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple...4302--1&vehicleId=1&vehicleName=2017+Ram+1500


Can i go 7500 miles on this combination?

Any other oil suggestions?

That's the good stuff...

 

[LarryA]

Why?

It hasn't been worth it to me to change my own oil for many years. Too much time and hassle, and the cost saving is minimal. I wouldn't have Jiffy Lube do it, but the dealer isn't that expensive and my wife takes the truck in. So zero hassle to me.

I prepaid oil changes when I bought this truck so it's even less expensive.

Unfortunately my local dealer can’t provide quick turnarounds for oil changes, I had them change the oil first time, and it took3 separate times where the wait wasn’t 3 plus hours.

If they could turn oil changes in 30 minutes, or even an hour I would consider it.

However it is so easy to change our oil, there is an oil recycling place a mile from my home, and I trust me to do it right...

 

[69GWC]

And you getta keep your Man Card... Lol

 

[RamHondo]

Unfortunately my local dealer can’t provide quick turnarounds for oil changes, I had them change the oil first time, and it took3 separate times where the wait wasn’t 3 plus hours.

If they could turn oil changes in 30 minutes, or even an hour I would consider it.

However it is so easy to change our oil, there is an oil recycling place a mile from my home, and I trust me to do it right...

Hmm, I have always made appiontment they usually finish in hour..... Maybe find another dealer....

 

[Burla]

As far as determining a oil change interval, the individual engine is a large factor on determining how it is on the oil. Redline has been known to go 18k miles and still retain tbn, which is the guage of determining the interval, it also has been known to be low on tbn even at 5k miles, you just never know unless you do a uoa from an oil lab to set the interval.

If I were you this is what I would do, do a run with that oil (redline 5w30 is pure hemi honey), for a 7500 mile run. Change the oil, and run another 7500 miles, and then send for a blackstone kit. You don't have to change the oil the second time, you can just opt to drain some off, just make sure if you do that to change it warm and drain a lil off before you collect the sample.

They will send you the kit for free, just give them your address, you only pay by check or card when you send the oil to them. I believe it is even postage paid still? You HAVE to get TBN which is ten bucks more, that sets your oil change interval, aka OCI. Here's their price list, it is 28 bucks for standard test, and 10 more for tbn. So if you are going to stick with one oil, do a uoa and it will determine exactly how to best utilize the formula, so you aren't wasting good oil chnaging too early and you aren't pushing it to far. Personally, I don't like my tbn to get below 2. I have a 10k miles interva with redline 5w30 and I have over 3 rbn at that point, meaning technically I can probably go another 3-5k miles and still be safe. Read the blackstone thread I believe it is a sticky. Do a uoa, it will tell you the condition of the engine and set an interval. 38 bucks for this is money well spent.

 

[Ecofx86]

As far as determining a oil change interval, the individual engine is a large factor on determining how it is on the oil. Redline has been known to go 18k miles and still retain tbn, which is the guage of determining the interval, it also has been known to be low on tbn even at 5k miles, you just never know unless you do a uoa from an oil lab to set the interval.

If I were you this is what I would do, do a run with that oil (redline 5w30 is pure hemi honey), for a 7500 mile run. Change the oil, and run another 7500 miles, and then send for a blackstone kit. You don't have to change the oil the second time, you can just opt to drain some off, just make sure if you do that to change it warm and drain a lil off before you collect the sample.

They will send you the kit for free, just give them your address, you only pay by check or card when you send the oil to them. I believe it is even postage paid still? You HAVE to get TBN which is ten bucks more, that sets your oil change interval, aka OCI. Here's their price list, it is 28 bucks for standard test, and 10 more for tbn. So if you are going to stick with one oil, do a uoa and it will determine exactly how to best utilize the formula, so you aren't wasting good oil chnaging too early and you aren't pushing it to far. Personally, I don't like my tbn to get below 2. I have a 10k miles interva with redline 5w30 and I have over 3 rbn at that point, meaning technically I can probably go another 3-5k miles and still be safe. Read the blackstone thread I believe it is a sticky. Do a uoa, it will tell you the condition of the engine and set an interval. 38 bucks for this is money well spent.

Yup this is plan! oil and filter should be here tuesday!

As for dealer changing oil, The 2 plus hour wait been ridiculous! I was paying 60 bucks for the oils changes with discounts from Ram. Ill pay the 100 bucks for redline and Rp oil filter!

 

[Burla]

Nick sells redline 12 bucks a qrt everyday price, I believe shipped free.

 

[Ecofx86]

I paid $112 for 2 gallon of redline 5w30 and Rp 10-48 on amazon(two day Prime Shipping). 8 bucks of it was taxes .

 

[Burla]

It sounds like maybe you would have saved 18 bucks through Nick, it is likely no tax I think. You should PM nick for next time, double check shipping and tax situation. Most guys here use Nick, he sells the stuff cheap. Never mind, I see you got the filter as well, so likely a wash. But that Amazon price is rare, usually they are 47 a gallon. So when it isn't on sale maybe ten bucks cheaper through Nick. Just keep in mind there is another source other then mightyzon. I must admit I am addicting to amazon as well. and often don't check other sources.

 

[Elkman]

For 2017 and newer engines it is very important to use the oil specified by the manufacturer which is usually going to be a 0W-20 (except for the 6.4L engine where 0W-40 is specified by Ram) and be rated API SN or SN Plus. With the new oil standars any major brand of synthetic or blended oil will provide equivalent protection for normal driving. Lots of companies spend lots of money on marketing to convice consumers otherwise but it is a con with regard to motor oil for gas engines. Amsoil for example is heavily advertised but in independent lab testing of diesel engine motor oils and their additive mixes the Amsoil is in the bottom 25%.

Redline is good oil but then so is Mobile 1 and Delo and Rotella and any other API SN rated oil. The new motor oil test requirements cover kinematic viscosity increase at 40 degrees celsius, piston deposits, average cam plus lifter wear, cam wear, engine sludge, rocker cover sludge, engine varnish, oil screen sludge, hot stuck rings, cold stuck rings, oil ring clogging, bearing weight loss, aged oil low temp viscosity, phosphorous retention, high temp high shear viscosity (this is critical with multi-grade motor oils to avoid polymer shearing), evaporation loss at 250 degrees celsius, percent flow reduction with various level of water in the oil, foaming tendency and stability, high temperature foaming tendency and stability, homogeneity and miscibility, high temperature deposits, emulsion retention, and elastomer compatibility. None of this information can be provided by consumer oil analysis lab.

Most fleet operators are moving to engine hours instead of miles driven to decide when to change the motor oil. Makes sense when you think about it. Driving mostly on the highways at 60 mph and running up 6,000 miles on the odometer puts 100 hours on the engine and the oil. Driving mostly around town at an average speed of 30 mph that same 6,000 miles on the odometer equates to 200 hours on the engine and the motor oil, or double the impact on the lubricant. That is why I go by the DIC as it calculates the oil change interval based on how the car or truck is actually being driven and not a relatively arbitraty number.

 

[chrisbh17]

My take lately on doing your own oil changes - the only thing a dealer might be good for is record keeping. If it came down to it, just point at the dealer and say "they changed all the oil, if my cam is wiped, it isnt my fault"

The few things Ive taken my truck in for under warranty, most of them are greeted with "its normal". Sometimes they will go above and beyond, and find a truck that they think does the same thing. "See? its normal".

So, I wouldn't put much faith in the warranty at this point, and as such I wouldn't really see much advantage in having a dealer do your oil changes. If the warranty will never really fix anything, what is the point?

 

[chrisbh17]

My take lately on doing your own oil changes - the only thing a dealer might be good for is record keeping. If it came down to it, just point at the dealer and say "they changed all the oil, if my cam is wiped, it isnt my fault"

The few things Ive taken my truck in for under warranty, most of them are greeted with "its normal". Sometimes they will go above and beyond, and find a truck that they think does the same thing. "See? its normal".

So, I wouldn't put much faith

For 2017 and newer engines it is very important to use the oil specified by the manufacturer which is usually going to be a 0W-20 (except for the 6.4L engine where 0W-40 is specified by Ram) and be rated API SN or SN Plus. With the new oil standars any major brand of synthetic or blended oil will provide equivalent protection for normal driving. Lots of companies spend lots of money on marketing to convice consumers otherwise but it is a con with regard to motor oil for gas engines. Amsoil for example is heavily advertised but in independent lab testing of diesel engine motor oils and their additive mixes the Amsoil is in the bottom 25%.

Redline is good oil but then so is Mobile 1 and Delo and Rotella and any other API SN rated oil. The new motor oil test requirements cover kinematic viscosity increase at 40 degrees celsius, piston deposits, average cam plus lifter wear, cam wear, engine sludge, rocker cover sludge, engine varnish, oil screen sludge, hot stuck rings, cold stuck rings, oil ring clogging, bearing weight loss, aged oil low temp viscosity, phosphorous retention, high temp high shear viscosity (this is critical with multi-grade motor oils to avoid polymer shearing), evaporation loss at 250 degrees celsius, percent flow reduction with various level of water in the oil, foaming tendency and stability, high temperature foaming tendency and stability, homogeneity and miscibility, high temperature deposits, emulsion retention, and elastomer compatibility. None of this information can be provided by consumer oil analysis lab.

Most fleet operators are moving to engine hours instead of miles driven to decide when to change the motor oil. Makes sense when you think about it. Driving mostly on the highways at 60 mph and running up 6,000 miles on the odometer puts 100 hours on the engine and the oil. Driving mostly around town at an average speed of 30 mph that same 6,000 miles on the odometer equates to 200 hours on the engine and the motor oil, or double the impact on the lubricant. That is why I go by the DIC as it calculates the oil change interval based on how the car or truck is actually being driven and not a relatively arbitraty number.

2017+ Hemi engines spec 5W-20. At least until FCA decides the Hemi now needs 0W-20, to help them catch up with CAFE regulations.

Anecdotal proof around here shows it might be too thin, or that slightly heavier (30W) at least makes the engines run a bit smoother but sound a lot quieter.

Ive never believed the idea behind 5W-20 in the Hemi simply because if you look at the engine in 2016 and earlier, 5W-30 was the spec (or at least "allowed") per the manual. There was zero change in the engine from 2016 to 2017, but all of a sudden "5W-20 only".

So, which is it? And who does FCA think they are fooling?

 

[LarryA]

Hmm, I have always made appiontment they usually finish in hour..... Maybe find another dealer....

Likely a good idea as any visit to my dealership is at least 4 hours, and the Saturday appointments are even more of a crap shoot...hmmm we have you down for glass work, but we don't have a weekend glass guy....

 

[RamHondo]

My take lately on doing your own oil changes - the only thing a dealer might be good for is record keeping. If it came down to it, just point at the dealer and say "they changed all the oil, if my cam is wiped, it isnt my fault"

The few things Ive taken my truck in for under warranty, most of them are greeted with "its normal". Sometimes they will go above and beyond, and find a truck that they think does the same thing. "See? its normal".

So, I wouldn't put much faith


2017+ Hemi engines spec 5W-20. At least until FCA decides the Hemi now needs 0W-20, to help them catch up with CAFE regulations.

Anecdotal proof around here shows it might be too thin, or that slightly heavier (30W) at least makes the engines run a bit smoother but sound a lot quieter.

Ive never believed the idea behind 5W-20 in the Hemi simply because if you look at the engine in 2016 and earlier, 5W-30 was the spec (or at least "allowed") per the manual. There was zero change in the engine from 2016 to 2017, but all of a sudden "5W-20 only".

So, which is it? And who does FCA think they are fooling?

5W-20 IS USED FOR EPA/MPG...

 

[RamHondo]

My take lately on doing your own oil changes - the only thing a dealer might be good for is record keeping. If it came down to it, just point at the dealer and say "they changed all the oil, if my cam is wiped, it isnt my fault"

The few things Ive taken my truck in for under warranty, most of them are greeted with "its normal". Sometimes they will go above and beyond, and find a truck that they think does the same thing. "See? its normal".

So, I wouldn't put much faith in the warranty at this point, and as such I wouldn't really see much advantage in having a dealer do your oil changes. If the warranty will never really fix anything, what is the point?

Most important thing is research any issues before you go to dealership.
If they don't satisfy, shoot a message to RAMCARE here on forum...